How rare is electric rear defrost?

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Not an accurate one. I've had acouple good offers for the switch. But wanna give someone a chance to buy it all complete first before I separate it all out.
Depending what shipping ends up being, I’d be interested in the whole setup.
 
This is the window and wiring with switch and relay

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I've had 4 A-bodies with fold down back seats, including the 2 Dusters I have now. None of them have had the rear defrost.
 
I've had 4 A-bodies with fold down back seats, including the 2 Dusters I have now. None of them have had the rear defrost.
This is my second one with the fold down seat option. Forth one I've seen in person and only one I've seen with the rear defrost. Lol
 
I saw those wires and was unsure what they were for. If one of my sells for the whole system doesnt go thru I'd sell you the switch. Send me a PM so I can keep in mind who you are.
If you post some pictures of the wiring, it would be cool.
A lot of folks are interested in how Chrysler changed the wiring and routed it.
It's possible the car has the optional high output alternator as well.
 
If you post some pictures of the wiring, it would be cool.
A lot of folks are interested in how Chrysler changed the wiring and routed it.
It's possible the car has the optional high output alternator as well.

Scroll up a few posts and you will see the pics. Sadly the original 318 was gone so not sure about alternator
 
Scroll up a few posts and you will see the pics. Sadly the original 318 was gone so not sure about alternator
Thanks. I didnt see those when I posted.
Any pics of the firewall hole location?
Looks like you got most of it.
The white conector with clips probably went to the fusible link which is connected to the starter relay.
The other connector to the alternator output wire. if its there, might want to include it in the package.
I assume the standard output wire was eliminated, although it wouldn't matter if it wasn't.

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Thanks. I didnt see those when I posted.
Any pics of the firewall hole location?
Looks like you got most of it.
The white conector with clips probably went to the fusible link which is connected to the starter relay.
The other connector to the alternator output wire. if its there, might want to include it in the package.
I assume the standard output wire was eliminated, although it wouldn't matter if it wasn't.

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Here is a pic of the firewall. See that yellow splotch of paint? Right by it is the hole that that harness with the 2 white plugs came thru

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Thanks!
Its good to see an actual example of how the factory ran heavier capacity wiring into the car.
As far as the wire from the alt, that will be be relatively easier for whomever buys it to make. They can use the drawing I posted but its just an 8 gage wire with good insulation with a ring terminal on the alternator end and match the connector on the other.
 
No problem and yup easy to do. Those big wires connected to the 2 terminals on the back of the gauges. The dash harness had the regular ground that's usually attached to the gauges attached with them. But the positive on the dash harness was capped off with one of those factory style clear plug caps.
 
Here is a pic of how they changed the dash harness where it connects to the gauges. Just a simple change. Ground terminal is circled in yellow. Positive that's capped off is circled in white.

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No problem and yup easy to do. Those big wires connected to the 2 terminals on the back of the gauges. The dash harness had the regular ground that's usually attached to the gauges attached with them. But the positive on the dash harness was capped off with one of those factory style clear plug caps.

I think I follow what your describing.
The ammeter is seperate from the rest of the gages. It's the only gage that connects directly into a wire path. Electricity flows through it for the charging and when things are running on battery power it flows the other way.
The black wire on one side is not ground (even though its black) - it connects to the main splice.
The red wire that was capped off would have been the original connection to the battery. Apparenlty easier for the factory to to cap rather than remove it from the bullkhead connector.
 
I think I follow what your describing.
The ammeter is seperate from the rest of the gages. It's the only gage that connects directly into a wire path. Electricity flows through it for the charging and when things are running on battery power it flows the other way.
The black wire on one side is not ground (even though its black) - it connects to the main splice.
The red wire that was capped off would have been the original connection to the battery. Apparenlty easier for the factory to to cap rather than remove it from the bullkhead connector.
Yup, I posted a pic of the dash harness showing the capped off wire
 
Here's how the standard wiring would have looked.
Arrows point to the wire that was removed and the one that was capped in the process of installing the heavy duty option.
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They probably also removed the standard 12 gage alternator output wire that went to the bulkhead connector.

:thumbsup:
 
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I know I'm bumping a thread that's almost a year old....but does anyone know of a source of the replacement switches for these rear defrosters? My wife's Duster 360 has this setup but the switch is bad.
 
My Swiss made Demon has also an electric rear window defroster, but they - car was manufactured in a plant in Schinznach, Switzerland - handled the location of the switch in a different way:

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