How strong is a T-5 transmission?

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I've been wanting to try one for a while. I was seriously considering doing the swap in my dart until i saw the price of the sbm to t5 bell house prices. They are crazy expensive for a piece of stamped steel. Right out ridiculous imo! So I just stuck with the automatic. If I ever come across one cheap enough or in a junk yard I'm gonna buy it and see about making my own bellhousing. BTW the same bell house for a sbc is 1/3 of the price! Highway robbery!

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QuickTime bell housings are spun, not stamped, steel. That is an important distinction. They are also made in the USA. I agree they’re really expensive, but you do get what you pay for. And you can’t whine about everything being made in China if you won’t spend the money to buy US made parts.
 
The T5 will take pretty much anything you can do with a slant 6 unless you have some sorta crazy nitrous compound turbo supercharged ridiculousness, then you are likely to blow a head gasket before you break the T5.
 
QuickTime bell housings are spun, not stamped, steel. That is an important distinction. They are also made in the USA. I agree they’re really expensive, but you do get what you pay for. And you can’t whine about everything being made in China if you won’t spend the money to buy US made parts.
Thanks that i didnt know! i guess i just assumed they were stamped steel from the design. Thanks for setting me straight! You have a point about the made in china. Its not that i wont spend the money on usa parts its i dont have that kind of money to spend! lol
 
Quick time actually "goofed" when they made the slant six bellhousing. They should have made it to allow use of the small block size flywheel and multiple transmission bolt patterns. That would have allowed use of better clutches, and transmissions. Which would equate to a larger market. I had sent them a stock slant six A-833OD bellhousing to use as a "guide" and suggested their unit accept the larger flywheel/clutch Assy. I neglected to mention about other transmissions.
 
This thread is askin about a T5 behind a SLANT SIX. Not some hot Jag motor or something race prepped with slicks, but a SLANT SIX. The T5 will be fine behind it.
 
constant burnouts a ceramic puch clutch with no cushdrive centre and no slip
power shift

you can break any manual transmission

The torque rating is a measure by which a car manufacturer can make a risk assessment on how many transmission warranty claims they are likely to get. its not worth much else
its an indicative figure
this is a medium duty trans used in lower powered heavy vehicles and high powered light vehicles
for example TVRs running around with 300-400BHP used them, but only weighed in at 1000KG about 2250 LB

a camaro or mustang with electric seats T top roof big plastic bumpers 3250 lb

suspect an average A body is not up there with the mustang in terms of curb weight


if you are worried, get a cluster gear support (steel) from 5speeds.com paul cangiolossi
not some crappy aluminium one off ebay

get his peel and place shim kit

shim the cluster to get 1-3 thou of pre load
shim the input so that this is no endplay

you just took the torque rating of the box up by 30-50 ftlb from what it was (dependent on gear material and ratios)

dave
 
well thats a shame, an SFI bell would be nice. If I decide to pull off that swap I guess I will just have to use the Gill Welding adapter I have and be nice to the clutch LOL
A 10" Ford clutch fits fine with the right pressure plate.
 
I would probably look at something like the Ram clutch set they had on .org in a group buy a while back.
I honestly don't even remember what I got. I just picked and chose individual parts. In my case, since I am retaining the Mopar clutch fork, I had to use a Hemi throw out bearing and I also had to turn down the OD of the bearing retainer where the bearing rides.
 
I honestly don't even remember what I got. I just picked and chose individual parts. In my case, since I am retaining the Mopar clutch fork, I had to use a Hemi throw out bearing and I also had to turn down the OD of the bearing retainer where the bearing rides.
I will probably go Hydraulic, that 3" downpipe off the turbo will most likely be in the way. plus I dont think I have any of the original Z bar parts.
 
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