How to adjust roller rockers w/ hydraulic cam. First start up.

[69_340_GTS]

I used FO and compression got worse. I used 1/2 turn for pre-load. On zeroing, I tightened until the pushrod didn't spin.
It bothers me that my # 1 wire is on the back of the distributor. My book diagram shows it in the front. Could my wiring be scrrewed up?. It seemed to be the only way the distributor would go in with the vacuum advance pointing left (passenger side) . For the early v-8 guys, where is your #1 spark plug wire positioned on the distributor?
I am going to use the chart and see what happens. Turning 90* is more precise, but setting #2 when you're on #1? I don't understand, but will try it.

Distributor cap vs rotor position does not matter one bit. As long as the rotor points at the #1 wire when #1 cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke (or about), and the firing order is correct, it does not matter. Also where the vacuum can doesn't matter either, as long as the distributor has room to rotate enough to set the ignition timing.

 

[69_340_GTS]

...Turning 90* is more precise, but setting #2 when you're on #1? I don't understand, but will try it.

The Mopar chart is the way it is because some wild cams have a lot of overlap. The lifter may not be totally on the base circle of the cam when the piston is at TDC.

 

[RichB]

The Mopar chart is the way it is because some wild cams have a lot of overlap. The lifter may not be totally on the base circle of the cam when the piston is at TDC.

Gotcha! Why not combine the Two? Adjust no. 1 on TDC and turn 90* .It should come out on FO..

 

[69_340_GTS]

Gotcha! Why not combine the Two? Adjust no. 1 on TDC and turn 90* .It should come out on FO..

Not sure what you mean. But if you look at that chart, it is in the firing order. Just "offset" to make sure the lifter is always on the base circle of the cam. Anyways, it has always worked perfectly for me.

 

[RichB]

Not sure what you mean. But if you look at that chart, it is in the firing order. Just "offset" to make sure the lifter is always on the base circle of the cam. Anyways, it has always worked perfectly for me.

I mean on TDC, adjust both intake and exhaust valves of # 1 , then rotate exactly 90* to adjust the next pair in the firing order - #8? And continue rotating 90* thru the FO.
That's what I'm doing right now. The big advantage is rotating the crank exactly 90*, rather than looking at the rotor. I have tape on the crank pulley measured off in quarters.
This time I am backing the rockers way off before coming back to zero. I think I had the lifters screwed down too far. Does this sound correct? I am having difficulty finding zero backlash.

 

[69_340_GTS]

90° at a time is great. But you'd be better off going by the Mopar chart.

 

[RichB]

90° at a time is great. But you'd be better off going by the Mopar chart. View attachment 1715143838

I hear you. Thanks.

 

[gregsdart]

This is most likely a repeat, but here goes. Start at TDC #1. Do not fill lifters with oil, just oil the roller and exterior. Install the lifters for number one cyl, assemble the pushrods and rockers with some lash. Note that there is virtually zero resistance to rotating the pushrods with your finger tips. Tighten the rocker till you feel SOME ressistance. Go a 1/4 turn tighter at a time till the pushrod won't turn at all. You now know where the lifter plunger travel starts and stops. Set the #1 lifters to the middle of travel, or a little tighter with aluminum heads, or where the manufacturer says to. Move the motor 90 degrees and repeat for #8 , then. #4, etc. Once done prime the system with a priming rod and drill till you see oil coming out of every rocker. Done.

 

[RichB]

This is most likely a repeat, but here goes. Start at TDC #1. Do not fill lifters with oil, just oil the roller and exterior. Install the lifters for number one cyl, assemble the pushrods and rockers with some lash. Note that there is virtually zero resistance to rotating the pushrods with your finger tips. Tighten the rocker till you feel SOME ressistance. Go a 1/4 turn tighter at a time till the pushrod won't turn at all. You now know where the lifter plunger travel starts and stops. Set the #1 lifters to the middle of travel, or a little tighter with aluminum heads, or where the manufacturer says to. Move the motor 90 degrees and repeat for #8 , then. #4, etc. Once done prime the system with a priming rod and drill till you see oil coming out of every rocker. Done.

I like the idea of finding the center of travel of the lifters. My engine is all together and running, but not running well at all. The hyd lifters have oil in them. Should I somehow bleed down the lifters first? [I have a mild perf. cam, hydraulic lifters, and 318 heads, milled, ported, matched, & 'polished'.] I have a big discrepancy in compression from 90 psi in several cyls, I think 1,2,7,8 on the ends, up to 110 - 120 psi in a couple in the center of the engine. I think that either the engine is not yet properly broken in or the lifters are not properly adjusted , or both. The break in theory is supported by the fact that after the last attempt to adjust the lifters, I squirted oil into two of the lowest compression cylinders and saw improvement in compression -significant in one of them. I'm not sure, but I may try the Mopar chart this time.