How to fix steering slop?

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standup303

standup303

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I have a 69 Dart with factory power steering. I can move the steering wheel back and forth about 4-5” without any movement in the wheels. With wheels in the air, I can see the input steering coupler move with the steering wheel however the pitman arm does not move at all within this slop range. I loosened the nut on top of the gearbox and the flathead screw was already in as tight as it would go.

Any advice on the next step would be appreciated.
 
The next step is a new or rebuilt steering box.
The Mopar unit is notorious for wearing out faster than other models. I had Chevy steering boxes that felt great despite being over 100,000 miles. Saginaw built the units for GM.
Ma Mopar built theirs in house. The design you see in the last rear wheel drive cars in 1989 had a steering box design dating back to 1957. Yeah...a LOT of things change in 32 years but Ma Mopar stayed with the same old design with very few changes in that time.
You can have yours rebuilt but due to it's design flaws, that slop will return.
Lares makes a new version but it is anyone's guess as to whether it will develop slop at the same rate as a factory one.
Borgeson makes a unit that is a newer design and it is far better than any Mopar unit. It isn't cheap. You're looking at $1000 for a kit that bolts in with no modifications. I've done the swap in 2 different cars and yes, they are great.
Your other option is to just replace yours with a low mile used one, preferably from a light A body that had a slant six so it has the least stress and wear on it. You will still likely notice some slop and it will get worse over time.
It all goes back to the flawed original design of the 50s. Back then, effortless power steering was thought of as a luxury compared to the hard to handle manual steering the cars and trucks had back then.
Good luck.
 
Yeah, that’s how stock mopar power steering boxes are. Your options are to drop a smooth g for the upgrade (super tight), go to manual (better but still can be a little sloppy), or just deal with it.
 
Dammmit! Had a feeling. Guess I’ll add it to the “one day” list and deal with it lol.

Thanks as always for the help.
 
Yep, the op mentioned trying it and it didn't help.

That's a very tricky adjustment. You want it two smidgens too loose rather one smidgen too tight. If you get it too tight, the car will track wherever you point it but won't change unless you move the wheel. It's not a good feeling.
 
With the engine not running, that is normal. Start it up and test it again.
You can Modify that box to make it better but, you cannot eliminate it, because the boost control valve needs some rotation to activate the Power-Piston.
 
Your problem is likely excessive bearing endplay inside the s/box. Not sure on your model, but on many cars this is adjustable without removing the s/box.
 
yup
agree
the obvious adjustment (screw and locknut visible from above) is about mesh between the teeth on the sector and the teeth on the ballnut/hydraulic piston that runs up and down the worm screw as you turn the wheel.

however the worm screw that the steering column connects to sits clamped between bearings held in a race at the bottom of the box and a race in the screw in top plug of the box
this screw in top plug is locked in position with a big threaded hex shaped ring

it is not outwith the realms of possibility for this ring to be hit and loosened by road debris
and from that point on the top of the box works loose. this allows the worm screw to move up and down instead of making the ballnut piston go up and down and hence your steering wheel input results in no road wheel output.

undo hex ring 1 turn tap the top of the box round gently until it stops do up hex ring again and ding it tight with your socket extension and a hammer. each corner of the hex has a cut out ideal for being dinged in this way.. :)

the is NOT the correct way to fix the issue. you are supposed to set the preload on these bearings off the car

however as long as the bearing cages have not broken (these look like crank bearings off a sturmey archer bike crank (Raleigh/schwinn)) and the bearings are still in the right place trapped between the race contour on the worm shaft and the press fit bearing races in the box and screw in top plug, all will be well.... or at least better.

if its as bad as you say..... i'd suggest nothing to lose in trying

the screw in plug is like a massive version of the headset fork bearing clamping caps on a 1960s cycle.

Dave
 
Are any of you aware of an affordable replacement? I am doing an engine swap in the next 2 months and would like to take care of it while easily accessible. I see plenty of the Cardone manufactured boxes but cannot find one for a 69 Dart. I do not want to spend more than $300 right now.
 
Cardone is a rebuilt mopar box
for about 400 you can get a lares new replacement (i believe they are made in minnesota or somewhere) these are different from standard, i.e look different) but fit in the exact same place.
but are not the same as the delphi built borgeson box which is a re cased modern steering box of the kind used by jeep etc .
to be honest they are all the same bar the assistance and the steering ratio. materials have changed, tolerances are better but its still a recirculating ball, bearings on a worm screw steering box.

other option is a column adapter (fills in the gap and is a spline converter) (expensive new...) and a manual box (often more in line with your budget)

Mine is manual
i managed to get No slop at all.... by rebuilding everything with new parts. the only bit that was old was my car specific "Right hand Drive" steering box case i just used US parts and converted the ballnut/screw to RHD for my car specific UK/Australia/South Africa steering box

rebuilding a manual core takes about 1 day the first time...there is nothing much in there

you spend more time waiting for the Parcels to arrive and swearing at the rockauto website for labelling stuff up wrong

idler
pitman
track rod ends
bushes
and the coupler in the steering shaft

manual rebuild here Manual steering box rebuild - Mopar Muscle Association UK

Dave
 
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