how to install headers?

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dgc333 said:
By far the best thing to do to install the drivers side header is to remove the steering column. To get it out everything is accessable and will only take 20-30 minutes but will reduce the frustration factor 10 fold, you won't even need to jack the engine out of the mounts. Also, it you have power steering un bolt the box from the k-member but leave in place. Once you have this done you can slide the header up into place from below. Bungie it to the block until you have the steering box bolted back into place.

Another thing to use the reduces the frustration factor is to get header bolts with a reduced size head. The ones I used have a 3/8" hex. Most of the bolts you can access with a 1/4" drive 3/8" socket, the rest with a 3/8" combination wrench.

When I put the 360 in my Barracuda I used the gaskets that came with the headers, these were leaking in less than a week, Mr. Gasket lasted about a month. I tried copper but they wouldn't seal at all. I then went with two Fel Pro header gaskets per side with a coating of high temp silicone seal on them. That was 45,000 miles ago and no leaks.
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..... so how would you remove the steering Colum out of the way I'm at that point now and I have manual steering not power
 
losen the the trans mount bolts too [along with the engine mounts coming of because you are gonna have to lift the engine an and it move over to one side.

center link, starter maybe, and you'll have to go up from the bottom on the drivers side.
 
you don't have to pull the column or even unbolt it.

but if you choose to....there are 3 bolts under the dash that hold it, then 3 more at the fire wall flange....then the roll pin for the splined coupler....and make sure you remove any shift linkage just incase so you don't fk it up.
 
You don't have to remove the column but it sure does reduce the frustration of installing the driver side header.
 
Finally got those headers in my duster what a job and a half.... big pain took 5 hrs but thanks for everyone input it helped alot. Thanks guys
 
All, good information here - I am in the process of installing TTI headers on my small block 69 notchback with power steering. I "THINK" we might have successfully completed the job. Here is what we have done.....BTW, this required me and my son and lots of patience.....thanks to this forum we had some reference points....

1) New motor, not dressed out, no fluids (good tip on water jackets on manifold studs that we removed - also, agree it is easier to hang the header on loose manifold studs to line up the gasket and header with the block).
2) Installed passenger side by lifting motor and sliding upward from underneath (car is hanging on jack stands about 24 inches off floor)
3) Driver side a bit more complicated......again, lift motor slide upward. TTI has the slip tube on the last pipe to go around the torsion bar....no torsion removal needed with this setup - Also, did not need to remove the steering/center link.......does not appear to go through these headers......
4) keep in mind motor position is key......once the header is bolted on and the mount slips back into its home the job is done...


This was painful for me as I have never installed headers.....and that the car was purchased in pieces and boxes so my motor mount configuration was off moving the motor forward and causing a collision with the steering box on the driver side.

Tip I read from another thread. Slide the ceramic coated headers in place while in the factory plastic bag This reduces damage to your coating. Mine are pretty beaten up from shifting the motor, banging from side to side, etc etc
 
daves 72 dart said:
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You may also use a mini starter off a full size truck or van as well. Also, I installed headers on my 85 dodge ram with 360 and used the thick fel pro. It did not take long before they began to leak. So then I used regular exhaust manifold gaskets and never had a problem. I am now getting ready to install a set of hedmans on my 340 duster. It should be easy though since I am also rebuilding the front end. I wish I would have decided this before I put my tortion bars back in though. But at least I haven't got to the steering linkage yet and my steering box is already off.
 
You may also need to dimple a tube or two here and there to prevent rubbind/rattling, but no big deal.
 
My 73 duster 318 in it now and no column driverside header came out the top no probs but cant get passengerside without jacking the motor up. They are Hooker Super Comp Headers
 
finely got them hooker header on my demon all i had to do is take the track bar off the pit man arm now half to hook every thing up threw the center of the header on the driver side
 
I find this way is easy
 

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dodge71demon said:
I find this way is easy
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Without a doubt that's the way to do it if your doing the whole shebang at once. Did you make the adapter to slide into the frame to lift from? If so what size rectangle tubing works best to slide into the frame? Will a std. 1.5 ton cherry picker lift it? Can't really see what your using.
 
fishy68 said:
Without a doubt that's the way to do it if your doing the whole shebang at once. Did you make the adapter to slide into the frame to lift from? If so what size rectangle tubing works best to slide into the frame? Will a std. 1.5 ton cherry picker lift it? Can't really see what your using.
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That's was part of a rotisserie that I had made a long time ago.I'll be installing a motor the same way in the next few days and will post pictures.What I usually do is put on the bumper brackets and just place a sling between them.And yes the front of these cars are pretty light so the 1.5 ton picker works fine.It takes a little finesse to do this.Again I'll try to get some more detailed pictures when I do this yet this week
 
The easiest thing to do is pull the torsion bars and pull the steering column. Its not that hard and will save you a ton of time.
 
I put my Jegs headers in the normal way the first time, and then again a 2nd time the assembly way pictured above, when I did my 360 swap. It was so easy the assembly way it made me think it would have been faster the first time to do it that way even if not completely removing the motor. Instead of jacking the motor up (which doesn't give you much more room anyway), dropping it down seems easier. Pull torsion bars, pop the upper ball joint, pull gas line, pop off upper and lower radiator hoses, disconnect some wiring and the front brake lines at the frame, pull the top bolt on the shocks, pull the roll pin on the steering coupler, pull the main bolts in the trans mount but you should be able to let the driveshaft just stay in place. Jack the front end way up and put it on jack stands. Then use an engine hoist and hold the assembly up while pulling the K frame bolts. Then lower it all down to the floor, install headers and pull it all back up with the hoist.

Then again, after typing all that out it doesn't seem easier anymore and I'm sure I left out a few parts! I had all that stuff off anyway but was really glad I put the headers on before installing the motor, and really glad I did it from the bottom. I had taken it out from the top and that was a mistake as well.

Don't worry about it too much, I bet hundreds of thousands of these crappy headers have been put on a bodies since they came out, you'll be in good company LOL!
 
dodge71demon said:
That's was part of a rotisserie that I had made a long time ago.I'll be installing a motor the same way in the next few days and will post pictures.What I usually do is put on the bumper brackets and just place a sling between them.And yes the front of these cars are pretty light so the 1.5 ton picker works fine.It takes a little finesse to do this.Again I'll try to get some more detailed pictures when I do this yet this week
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dodge71demon said:
see pictures at http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1969746592#post1969746592
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Ok, sounds easy enough. Thanks for the info and pics.
 
I use Remflex gaskets for my slant six, very nice, no leaks ever, no sealant needed. I plan to use for 360 magnum header install.
 
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