How to press on right rear axle bearing w Hydraulic press

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To repeat the one side which is non adjustable is one shall we say pressure point. The axle you have here with the adjuster is the opposite side. In the same way that a front wheel spindle nut applies pressure on both front wheel bearings to set the play for the front inner and outer bearings, this adjuster on the axle adjusts the pressure/ end play on both axle bearings on both sides of the car. So when you tighten/ adjust this adjuster, that applies pressure on the cup, the race, and transfers that pressure to the axle, which moves/ presses in on the button in the center of the third member. This button presses on the end of the opposite axle, and transfers that pressure/ movement to that axle, which tightens up the bearing on the other side of the car.
 
Thanks. Your info above combined with another re-read of the manual and a re-read of all comments above have given me a picture that I understand.
 
You have gotten good answers here. Sometimes it is hard to describe to others what you mean. To add a little clarification [I hope], there is either a center button or a center block inside the differential gears. The button or block floats about an eighth of an inch sideways, this allows both axles to move [push] against each other without putting pressure on the differential gears.

There are two different axle bearing retainers. A solid type and an adjustable type. They both push on the axle bearing [outer] cup. When both axles are assembled it is necessary to adjust the end play of the axle bearings. [about .010'']. With the adjuster backed off a few turns and the bolts tightened, the axle should have noticeable end play. Tighten the adjuster till the end play is correct. Check the end play again by hitting the adjuster side axle with a big hammer and a block of wood. This pushes the outer race against the other [solid] bearing retainer. Recheck end play and install the adjuster lock.
 
I would check the other side and replace the inner seal. If the backing plate looks fairly dry and not covered by fresh oil, I'd remove the shoes and pull the axle, wash [soak] it in a round can until all the grease/grime is gone, air blow it, and check the bearing for smooth turning. Pack the bearing with wheel bearing grease until the grease comes thru the rollers. Add about 1/8'' more and assemble. Recheck axle end play.
 
Cool axle shaft, warm bearing.
Flange end of axle down on a block of wood. drop warm bearing on frozen axle and a long pipe and hammer to drive it home. Should not take much. Then repeat with collar. Did it that way for many years as it was always done that way in the dealership i worked in.
dont heat the bearing with a torch!
 
Update. Thanks to all for your advice. I ended up replacing the right rear bearing and cleaning the left rear bearing. All seals were replaced that I could replace. It’s back together and feels/sounds good. I replaced brakes and brake cylinders while I was in there. Next step is under the hood... carb kit has been ordered. I may start a new thread when I start work on my clutch which I don’t feel comfortable with on a hill.
 
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