How to properly Adjust 1972 Dodge Demon Torsion Bars

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1973Kathleen

1973Kathleen

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I am currently swapping my 6 cylinder k frame out of my '72 demon for a v8 k frame out of a '67 Barracuda. I have one side competed with everything bolted back on with new suspension components just waiting on a strut rod bushing to come in the mail because it was all dry rotted and no good. I can put everything back together but the one thing I am not sure on how to do is adjust my torsion bars. From one forum I read they're a little heavier because my car was a 6 cyl with A/C so I'm not bothering putting stronger ones in. How do I adjust them. I don't have the engine currently in the car do I need that to properly get them adjusted. Any Help is appreciated. Thanks-Zach
 
Yes, you will need the engine in the car — the wheels will need to be on the ground with the full normal weight load. The procedure is described in the Factory Service Manual for your model. Get the manual — there is no easy way to describe it without the pictures.
 
Just remember you must take the weight off the suspension to make your adjustment, or you will strip the torsion bar bolts and possibly the anchors too.
 
mvh said:
The procedure is described in the Factory Service Manual for your model. Get the manual
Click to expand...
Mymopar.com has Free FSM downloads

With no motor in the car the best you can do is snug the adjusters up enough that the car it not resting on the bump stops.


If you have 2-3 husky friends about 600-800 lbs worth.... They could be an engine stand in. But even at that it would be a ROUGH adjustment.

Nut shell version.


There are a couple points on the suspension that get measured and then the adjusters are adjusted. The car gets bounced a couple times then measured again. Rinse and repete.
 
If you look at the ends of your bars there will be numbers

Your looking for 888/889 890/891 892/893 894/895

Screenshot_20250107-143131.png

If you find those numbers post them and we can tell you what bars you have.

My guess is you have standard V8 bars if they are an upgrade from the standard /6 bars due to AC
 
That '67 K frame has a different idler arm than your '72 K frame does. They got rid of the single mount idler after '67. So if the '67 K frame doesn't have an idler arm already on it, you'll need to buy one and they are expensive.

Personally I'd keep the '72 slant 6 K frame and just buy conversion mounts. Much easier to deal with.
 
The road height adjustment (performed by turning the torsion bar adjuster) is done with the car complete and when you get the front end aligned.
 
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