Switch after carefully removing plastic buttons that secure the top plate/cover to the switch body by using an Exacto knife.
After the buttons are removed carefully work the blade of the knife between the top plate/cover and main body of the switch and pry them apart. View attachment 1714973658
The broken ports on the top plate/cover need to be carefully trimmed down to an even with surface, then sanded to a rough finish.
Sand the flange portion of the pop rivet to a rough surface.
The sanding of the top plate/cover and the pop rivets is to help the JB Weld hold better.
After the fact, I would have also drilled small (1/16)holes next to each broken port.
The holes would serve to anchor the JB Weld the top plate/cover. Any JB Weld that came thru into the vacuum slide area would have to be removed/smoothed so that the slide would work.
The barrel of 1/8 X ¼ long aluminum pop rivets is used for the replacement ports. View attachment 1714973660
Before doing any work with the JB Weld Strip about 4 lengths of small (22gauge) wire. The number of wires need will depend on how many ports need to be replaced.
22 gauge copper telephone inside wire was used here. It is small enough to pass thru the small vacuum ports of the switch.
Fold the wires in half and run them thru from the under/inside of the ports to be replaced.
Mix a small amount of JB Weld and use a sharp pointed toothpick to apply a small bead around the bottom of the pop rivet(s). If holes have been drilled into the top plate/cover force the JB Weld thru them.
Then slide the rivet(s) over the wire(s) to the surface of the top plate/cover.
A small electronic perforated circuit board was used here to help clamp/hold the rivets in place. A small piece of cardboard could be used also. If cardboard is used, punch small holes for the wires and test fit
ahead of time.
Feed the wires thru holes that are spaced close to the port spacing. (Test fit this before applying the JB Weld) Then twist the wires together to help clamp/hold the rivets in place.
After the JB Weld has started to cure some and is holding the rivets (15-20 minutes), remove the perf board and carefully slide the wire back and forth in the rivet/hole to make sure it is not blocked by the JB Weld. View attachment 1714973661
Then mix a small amount of JB Weld and using a sharp pointed toothpick apply the mixture around and slightly over the flange (s) of the rivet(s) and let cure before reassembly of the switch.
Once the JB Weld is cured, place the top plate/cover onto the main body of the switch over the pins.
Use a 5/64 bit and very, very carefully drill the center of each pin to a depth of about ½. Be extremely careful to keep the drill straight and square in all directions to keep from drilling thru the sides of the switch body. View attachment 1714973668
Once the holes are drilled, use a #4 X 40 tap and tap treads in all of the holes. View attachment 1714973674
Stainless steel panhead hex #4 X 40 X ¾ machine screws shortened to ¼ were used to secure the top plate/cover to the switch body.
Excellent post. I'll just add a few of my experiences.
The 5-button switches can still be purchased, though not cheap (~$90). My 65 Newport had the 4-button switch like in the "Touchy business" article. I figured a way to make a 5-button switch work there, by mounting it on an offset metal plate and rearranging some controls. I post all my notes below (ca. 1995). My 69 Dart had the 5-button switch (factory AC). I only get heat in the Newport now with the "rear heat" button, but that is fine.
In all my cars, I added a relay that actuates in blower "high" position. That position most risks melting things, and that happens in many cars. Most 80's M-B owners know of the "melted #8 fuse holder" problem, i.e. cabin blower.
Great Article!! I'm in the process of repairing mine now.
Only issue is my slides are all broken, any idea where I might be able to find replacement material to make new slides? TIA!!
