How to remove a broken bolt from manifold...

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74 Dart Swinger
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I posted this on my thread with the 83 Ram Charger, but wanted to post it seperately incase someone doesn't see it and so that all may learn from it. The broken bolt holds the EGR block off plate to the top of the intake manifold on my 440.
I know Mopar Muscle just did a recent article on this and I cant find that issue. What is everyones advise?
 

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I learned how to do this at a very early age growing up on the farm.

Lay a flat washer over the piece of broken stud sticking out of the casting and tack it on with a welder. Then lay a hex nut on top of the flat washer and tack weld it to the washer. While it's still hot, turn it out with a wrench and don't be afraid to soak it up real good with WD-40 while you're turning it out. If it starts to trun then become difficult, reverse your rotation, squirt it down again, then try to turn in out again. You may have to work it back and forth several times, but it will come out clean.
 
Bolt the plate back on with the one bolt. Position it correctly as possible. Use a drill bit the same size as the plate was drilled to drill into the bolt 1/8 or so deep. This gives you a good center location. Next use a 3/16 diameter bit to drill a lead hole through the bolt. If an easy out wont move it after its drilled through. Drill and tap the hole. 1/4 inch drill for 5/16-nc tap or 5/16 inch drill for 3/8 -nc tap.
 
PB Blaster, then left-handed drill bits. Heat don't hurt, or a hammer, straight down smack.
 
mig welding nut to it has always worked for me. Muffler guy showed me getting broken studs from my 65.
 
I've found that patients really pays off here. Start with a strong chemical penetrant; these are much better than WD-40. Spray on multiple applications and let it sit a while. Carefully clean the rust around the bolt where it meets the casting with a sharp scraping tool; take your time here If you can get a stud puller onto the stud, give it a try, but be really patient and go slow.

If you can avoid it, stay away from applying heat or coolant spray as you can potentially crack the casting with localize heat. Use heat/cold as a last resort. Worst case, if you crack the manifold, throw it away and go get another one.

You might want to try getting a center punch and drilling out the center of the bolt, but again, be careful and take it slow as you can damage the threads on your manifold if your hole is off center or too big. Then use an easyout to back the bolt out.

Once it's out, clean up the threads with a tap and some thread oil then spray out the hole with air to get any chips and left over junk out.

Good Luck
 
I found a 5pc left hand drill bits in sizes 5/64 to 19/64 and a 5pc screw extractor set. I'm hopeing these will work and I will go slow. Trying to do this on the cheap and would like to use this manifold if it isn't cracked. Will probably try it this weekend if the weather doesn't turn wet.
I'm guessing the guy used 2 gaskets to try and make up for the lack of 2 bolts. Any idea why one bolt opening on the cover plate is counter sunk and the other is not?
 
Use PB Blaster! That stuff is awesome.

I had a manifold bolt break just like that. I sprayed it down about every hour all day while I worked on other stuff. I was able to get a pair of vise grips on the little bit that was sticking out. I went slow and took my time and I finally got it out. Sounds like the welding a nut on it is a good idea. I would still spray the crap out of it. GOOD LUCK.
 
green1 said:
You have the correct tools, drill straight, countersunk? idiot?
Click to expand...

I hope you are saying that "I" have the right tools in mind. I will drill straight to the best of my abilites. The "countersunk" bolt hole I was speaking of is in this attached picture. Now my question is, who are you wondering is an "idiot"?
 

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I've read(but never tried) about heating up the area and sticking wax on the stud, supposedly the wax will pull into the threads
 
Button said:
I hope you are saying that "I" have the right tools in mind. I will drill straight to the best of my abilites. The "countersunk" bolt hole I was speaking of is in this attached picture. Now my question is, who are you wondering is an "idiot"?
Click to expand...
LMAO!!! I hope he was kidding! :toothy10::toothy10::toothy10:
 
The welded nut is an old trick that I also use a lot. The other "easy in your driveway" deal is to just use a punch to locate the center of the bolt. Then use progressively larger bits (start with something like 1/8") drill out the bolt leaving only the threads. Then you can use a tap to re-thread or drill it oversize and re-tap. It's only a block off plate. It's not a big deal.
 
Look at the pics everyone. On the bottom side the bolt is sticking thru enough to set a nut over it and weld the center up solid and twist it all the way thru the bottom. This looks the simplest to me
 
Well,......

Here we go.

A broken off stud anywhere on an engine is always a pain.

Let's look at this one.

First I stuff a wad of masking tape inside the opening, clean the surface and cover it with tape.

Then I start with center punch, doing my best to get as dead center as possible.

Next, "Use A Center Drill", this is an important step.

While getting the pilot going you will have the opportunity to make small corrections as to how centered you are.

The "Very Best" penetrating oil is "KROIL" , just take my word for it.
It will creep between two "Gage Blocks that are rung together",
... yes, it will creep into a space of "One Millionth Of An Inch"

A few sharp raps on center of the broken stud is good to send some shock through it and make a little head way toward breaking up the relationship between the stud and the casting.

Then KROIL and soak.

It is always best to use Left Handed drills when possible, one problem with using standard right hand twist drills is they are rotating clockwise, thus can tighten the fastener further.

This happens in spades when you are "drilling up" from one drill size to another, this is when the drill has the tendency to "grab", this can "really" add torque to the fastener and sometimes can cause the drill to break off making things much worse.

It Is Critical To Use the Correct Extractor!

"Never Use The Taper Threaded Type!"

The first they do is dig in and spread the fastener making ht fit tighter still.

The next thing they do is "Snap Off!"

I am posting picture of the type that gives you the best chance of removing what's got you down.

Last I looked Sears Craftsman was still selling this type, as are others.

In the case this type can not budge the fastener, no harm, proceed with drilling, but avoid choosing too small of steps in drill size, that's when "grabbing" happens most often.

Know the size and pitch of the fastener you are dealing with.

Do not exceed the drill/tap size,

You may need to "pick" out the remaining threads with a pointed scribe.

Always run a tap through after a removal like this, no matter how good things look.


Assorted Center Drills


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A Proto, KD, & STI


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KROIL

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KROIL has many products for automotive, marine, and aircraft.

Made here in the US, their products are the best available.

http://www.kanolabs.com/





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MachineMan,
Thanks for all the tips and advise, that goes to EVERYONE that contributed. I've never seen Kroil anywhere before but I will be looking for it now. That along with the Craftsman Screw Extractor Set and left hand bits. I think with my resources this is the route I will take. I will document my success/failure on this thread. I still plan on removing the valve covers and headers to replace all those gaskets so I may need these tools again, but hopefully not!
 
Button said:
MachineMan,
Thanks for all the tips and advise, that goes to EVERYONE that contributed. I've never seen Kroil anywhere before but I will be looking for it now. That along with the Craftsman Screw Extractor Set and left hand bits. I think with my resources this is the route I will take. I will document my success/failure on this thread. I still plan on removing the valve covers and headers to replace all those gaskets so I may need these tools again, but hopefully not!
Click to expand...


You're welcome

Call Kano Labs, (800-311-3374), they will tell you who near you has it on the shelf.

Probably the place near you with industrial supplies.

Kano labs almost always has some good deal if you mail order.

"Don't Forget To Use A Center Drill"

Buy a couple in a couple of sizes, and use them.

Makes all the difference whenever drilling metal, start with a center drill whenever possible.
 
MachineMan said:
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It's been a while, any luck removing that broken off bolt?
.
Click to expand...
What I hate to admit is that I bought all the tools and have had good weather but just haven't gotton to it. First of all I was on Con-Lv for knee surgery for the month on January so I was able to get some stuff done. Now though I am back to work and I do not have days off. Being in the Army I work 12+ hour days, EVERY day so that doesn't leave much time for any vehicles.
On top of that I am trying to buy a house in this crappy economy and all our time/money has gone into that. But if everything goes as planned in my "mind" and with paperwork, I may be sending more pictures soon.
If I cant pull the bolt, I may just pull the engine all together and start
 
Before you do anything, check the intake for cracks.....especially in the web between the secondaries. I would bet it's cracked there. No point in going to all the trouble pulling a broken stud on a cracked manifold.
 
Just 8 bolts and the manifold comes off. Used aluminium ones are cheap.
 
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