how to repair

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Tadams

Tadams

Tadams
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Hope this picture will show, but this is an area where water was coming in. I have a new gasket for the trim, but think there is more that should be done.

WP_20160729_11_42_57_Pro.jpg
 
Any thoughts. The area between the two white marks dip about a 1/4 of an inch.
 
I believe the factory had a foam type product to seal that. Not sure if Detroit Muscle Tech. would carry that.
 
Where I sanded across the area. I have the new seals for the trim when I am ready to replace them
I was working on the car yesterday and was thinking if this would be a problem.
Thanks for the replies
 
Is it possible the area is there for drainage. Both sides have a low area there, but this one is deeper. I haven't tried the gasket yet, I just know that this area has a rust issue. Replacing the old dried gasket may solve the problem. Just checking with the experts before I do anything
 
Could this possible be made this way to allow for drainage

WP_20160730_10_18_13_Pro.jpg
 
I think there is a closed cell gasket that goes under the trim piece. Sort of like the stuff your DVD player came wrapped in inside its cardboard box.
 
I have purchased the foam gasket, my concern was this area shows signs of rust
Thanks
 
Even though I have owned several 65 barracudas, I couldn't quite figure out from the first picture where that opening was located. Use a wire wheel on a drill and get all the rust out of it, and then use a rust converter on it, and use a small amount of Bondo to fill in any gaps. After it is painted over and you're preparing to put on the Chrome trim, put that closed cell foam on there and as an extra preventative put a little bit of clear silicone sealer around the opening. I usually put that clear silicone along the top of the quarter panels in each of those trim holes to keep water out of there as well.
 
Not baggin' on ya, but you primed over cracked up seam sealer and what looks like scaly rust and you have seams that are not sealed. like said wire brush all that out. Treat it with Ospho or Rust-Mort, prime, then seam seal all the seams
 
There was no rust, I had cleaned the area and treated it. The rust issue was inside the open area. I did spray epoxy primer over the area after sanding to prevent any further rust from starting.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and ideas. Hopefully in the next week or so I can get back to work on the car. My granddaughter is much improved, and although I am going to have some surgery next month, I would really like to get some paint on her while the weather is good. After surgery I will not be able to do anything much for some time.
 
I would fill any voids with seam sealer. Any silicone sealer will cause rust. Seen it on many a car back in the 80s
 
I usually like to re-engineer things - especially older stuff like this - test fit what you have and go from there - if you can see light, it'll probably leak and needs more weather strip (or something). There's no easy answer here but I will say this, are you looking to make it look A+ resto or are you more concerned with getting it to work for you? The answer to that can aid you down a certain path. I rebuilt my Harley about 10 years ago - correctness be damned, I wanted it to last - so I changed things and used different materials to make things fit the way I wanted... "incorrect" nuts and weather strip...
 
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