How To Replace your Lower Column Bearing: Better and Cheaper!!!

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Yeah, I thought the 3rd bearing would cause a bind too, as my shaft had a noticeable up and down "warp" to it when turning the wheel, but I think the input shaft on the steering box was hammered! I used a skateboard wheel as a bushing just to keep the heat from blowing up my shaft.....;-)
 
Took the column apart today. It appears that my column isn't a 73 column. Looks like a 70/71 column for the parts number for the bushing and clip I have. I like the idea of a bearing and set screw collar. I have to go back and read wear the bearing was bought. :coffee2:

Lower Column Bearing 27-1.jpg




Lower Column Bearing 27-2.jpg
 
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Dart swinger 73 said:
Took the column apart today. It appears that my column isn't a 73 column. Looks like a 70/71 column for the parts number for the bushing and clip I have. I like the idea of a bearing and set screw collar. I have to go back and read wear the bearing was bought. :coffee2:
Click to expand...

Are you switching to a floor shift?

The shifter tube has to be eliminated to use the ER16 style bearing, it goes from the column jacket to the steering shaft, no room for the shift tube.
 
I can't tell from the original post and i haven't had mine apart yet but would it be possible to shorten the housing section that the bearing goes in to? I was hoping to shorten mine to make some header clearance on the rear port.
 
junior636 said:
I can't tell from the original post and i haven't had mine apart yet but would it be possible to shorten the housing section that the bearing goes in to? I was hoping to shorten mine to make some header clearance on the rear port.
Click to expand...

Yes, the outer steering jacket can be shortened some. Really only buys a inch or two on my car, I know that length changed a little though depending on the year of the car. Obviously you'll still need it to come through the firewall, but you can make a little space there.
 
72bluNblu said:
Yes, the outer steering jacket can be shortened some. Really only buys a inch or two on my car, I know that length changed a little though depending on the year of the car. Obviously you'll still need it to come through the firewall, but you can make a little space there.
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Awesome! That's all i need is an inch or two (that's what she said), that big old sleeve is right in the center of the port, if i can move it i just gained a bunch of clearance!
 
Thanks for the tip on the column bearing.
I just ordered a 1" Insert Bearing, ER-16, SER205-16, off ebay for 7.99 shipped.
Rebuilding a floor shift, manual column for my 73 duster.
Lower bearing was non-existing with the shaft wearing on the housing.
 
I know i had asked and someone else had to about shortening the collar for header clearance. I cut mine down tonight, picked the bearing up on ebay for $7 shipped. I would have to measure but i took 2" + off mine. Mine had a spring being the plastic bearing, I had to shorten that as well. I also added a u joint while i was at it. I did make some more room. Before and after shot.


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I need to do this as well to gain some headers clearance. My car has a '68 column shift power steering column. I've already converted to a floor shifter, but the shift tube is still in the column. If I shorten the column housing and use this ER16 insert bearing, what do I need to do to modify the original column shift tube and make it work. Will this even work? Doesn't the shift tube need a support?
 
mopowers said:
I need to do this as well to gain some headers clearance. My car has a '68 column shift power steering column. I've already converted to a floor shifter, but the shift tube is still in the column. If I shorten the column housing and use this ER16 insert bearing, what do I need to do to modify the original column shift tube and make it work. Will this even work? Doesn't the shift tube need a support?
Click to expand...

You'll need to remove the shift tube to use the ER16 bearing. Since you've already converted to a floor shift, you don't need the shift tube anymore and it can be removed completely.
 
72bluNblu said:
You'll need to remove the shift tube to use the ER16 bearing. Since you've already converted to a floor shift, you don't need the shift tube anymore and it can be removed completely.
Click to expand...

If I take the shift tube out, won't the shift collar spin? I'm gonna have to take it apart and look at it.

Thanks!
 
Thanks to the OP and FABO for this info.
I had an old floor-shift column that I picked up years ago at Carlisle.
I started cleaning it up this afternoon for installation into my '73 Sport when the bearing retainer and all the little balls came falling out of the tube!
This column has a spring that appears to hold the beariing retainer into the shaft.
I'm going to have to get that spring retainer, spring, inner race off the shaft istself and bearing spacer out of the tube to do this mod, but at least this is a fairly inexpensive and viable solution. A few hours ago, I was cussing it....LOL
 
Maybe this is a dumb question, but how do you remove the shift tube exactly? I have a column shift + power steering column and am in the process of converting to floor shift. I removed my column but cannot figure out how to disassemble it to remove the shift tube. I've been Googling around for days and can't find anything on how to actually disassemble the column properly. Unfortunately the Chilton manual only shows how to remove the column but not how to disassemble it. I removed the steering wheel and brackets already along with 4 screws from inside the top part of the column but it didn't seem to loosen anything up and I don't want to damage anything by forcing it.
 
Have you removed the steering shaft yet? In addition to the machine screws that hold the steering collars together, you have to remove a few phillips head screws and the c-clip that holds the steering shaft into the steering collars.

To get rid of the shift tube from there, you also need to remove the gear shift lever (drive out the roll pin) and remove the set screw that holds the shift tube in.

You basically have to disassemble the entire thing to get the shift tube out.
 
72bluNblu said:
Have you removed the steering shaft yet? In addition to the machine screws that hold the steering collars together, you have to remove a few phillips head screws and the c-clip that holds the steering shaft into the steering collars.

To get rid of the shift tube from there, you also need to remove the gear shift lever (drive out the roll pin) and remove the set screw that holds the shift tube in.

You basically have to disassemble the entire thing to get the shift tube out.
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Thanks for the quick reply. The column is out and in vice, but I haven't got too far yet as I've been trying to research how to proceed first. I removed the wiring harness cover, steering wheel, and the 4 phillips screws under the steering wheel. I don't recall seeing a c-clip but I'll look again when I get home. I understand I need to disassemble the entire thing, I've just been struggling to find any documentation on how to go about doing it. With that said, I literally just found this site: http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

I don't see a manual specifically for a '72 Dodge Dart, but I'm assuming the "1970 Dodge Challenger & Dart Service Manual" should be the same at least for the steering column. This service manual looks 1000x better than the crappy Chilton manual I currently have and actually has a section for disassembling the column. If anyone has a link to the actual service manual for a '72 Dodge Dart or know where I could acquire one please let me know.
 
The service manuals are just listed by the year and make, not the model. The '70 model year cars had reverse lock out rods incorporated into the steering, so you'd be better off using the '73 Dodge manuals from that page.

I have the '72 Dodge chassis and body service manuals, but I don't currently have a way to host them. One's 329 mb and the other is 116 mb. That would be the correct one for your Dart.
 
72bluNblu said:
The service manuals are just listed by the year and make, not the model. The '70 model year cars had reverse lock out rods incorporated into the steering, so you'd be better off using the '73 Dodge manuals from that page.

I have the '72 Dodge chassis and body service manuals, but I don't currently have a way to host them. One's 329 mb and the other is 116 mb. That would be the correct one for your Dart.
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Okay, cool man thanks! I appreciate the tip. I'll be sure to use the '73 Dodge manuals instead then.

The easiest method I can think of to send large files is to use Google drive (although I'm sure there are other ways). If you have a Gmail account (thus Google drive) you can first upload the files to G-drive. Then when you're composing an email in Gmail, you can "attach" the Google drive files and it will include a nifty download link in the email for the recipient. We use this method in the office from time to time for very large files and it works well. If this is something you'd be willing to do, I'd be happy to shoot you my email over PM. Otherwise I think I can make due with the '73 manuals. :thumbup:
 
junior636 said:
I know i had asked and someone else had to about shortening the collar for header clearance. I cut mine down tonight, picked the bearing up on ebay for $7 shipped. I would have to measure but i took 2" + off mine. Mine had a spring being the plastic bearing, I had to shorten that as well. I also added a u joint while i was at it. I did make some more room. Before and after shot.




20140918_185410.jpg20150505_194022_edit_1430871999770.jpg
Click to expand...

I plan to install the SER205-16 bearing in my 72 Demon. The car was originally a manual trans car and does not have a shift tube. I also want to shorten the housing for more header clearance. My question is can this be performed without removing the column from the car? I was thinking that I could use a chain pipe cutter to shorten the tube and remove the gear box and u-joint to install the bearing. Any advice would be appreciated.

Below is a picture of what I have.

Thanks,
Mike

Lower Column Bearing 49-1.jpg
 
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