How to tell a "fake" ECU from a real one

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Middle leg of that regulator chip is ground. It is common to the mounting tang. The mounting tang really should be against a heat sink and grounded also. If this regulator isn't grounded one way or another, and gets 12 volts in, 12 volts goes right through and out on the 3rd leg. The chip doesn't have any ground fault protection in it. Real Time Engineering points out that their solid state IVR has ground fault protection in its circuitry. This ECU should have also but... who knows? Anyway, I have tried to warn everyone who adds one of these regulator chips to their instrument panel. "If you dont add a dedicated ground wire to that instrument panel you damn sure better screw it to the dash before you power it up. There isn't a ground wire in the harness. Only ground path will be though gauges and senders. 12 volts will go that way."
 
Adding to what Hopps started with this thread

Had more then a few discussions with him when I was testing literally everything I could get my hands on when I had intermittent RPM Issues above 4,500 - 5,000 RPMs on my 1971 SuperBee when my old reliable Mopar Performance Chrome ECU/Ignition Module started to fail and I was chasing my *** on RPMs not knowing


Silicon Chip mounted on outside
Don’t know who makes these and I have not tested one of these

They rate this for 6,800 RPMs

Summit Racing SUM-851021 Summit Racing® Ignition Controllers for Mopar | Summit Racing

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N O S Standard LX101 from the 80s - The good ones - USA
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Made with a real Transistor , Heat Sink , and a Flux Capacitor
LOL
 
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I have my Mopar Performance Chrome ECU all cleaned out right now

Wanted to know why it’s failing above 4,500 RPMs
 
I have a question...

If pin D is grounded in the ECU, couldn't one ground the corosponding wire in the dist, and only have one wire comming out of the dist?

Or for that matter with an appropriate sized resistor ( inplace of the pickup coil) just use the points to fire the ECU?
 
I will say that I have used the 7500 high Rev control unit for about 3 years and found it to be a very good unit. I use it on my 340 with 66 to 67,00 RPM shift points when I'm getting it. I would buy another one in a heartbeat. And what's not to love for 45 bucks or whatever they cost
 
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Yeah yeah I shouldn't do this stuff without my glasses 6700
 
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