I'm just guessing here.... if you plan to drive a car with a cage, and wear your helmet on the street, it's a safe bet you are gonna get pulled over about every ten minutes, for curiousity alone if nothing else.
How would you build a low 10’s street car
- Thread starter 1970boy
- Start date
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I'm just guessing here.... if you plan to drive a car with a cage, and wear your helmet on the street, it's a safe bet you are gonna get pulled over about every ten minutes, for curiousity alone if nothing else.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Why, seriously?
weedburner
Well-Known Member
20mpg without an overdrive is mostly in the 114LCA nitrous cam combined with a low tension ring package. Also low compression to allow spraying some HP on pump gas, the engine only cranks about 90psi on the starter. Should also work w/ a mopar.
Here's a couple videos of before/after installing a 'tamer, that part works with a mopar as well. Their goal is also 10's, they picked up .37 in the 60'...
Before-
After-
Grant
Good, stay home!
(JK)I have the unfortunate location of living east of and no choice but to travel through the city to get to a track and hence why I mentioned that for ME. I really don’t care about your trial and tribulations on traveling to the track with a 10 second car. You do you and what ever you can tolerate. If you don’t mind having sweaty balls, (SNL) God bless ya.
2. I already drive all 4 of my classics without A/C on summer days that's hot and humid. In fact, last September we went through 9 states and almost 4k miles on vacation in one of them with no A/C. Does that qualify as a street car???? LOL (oh, we went through OKC, Tulsa, Amarillo Tx, Flagstaff, Albuquerque, NM)She got 13 mpg.
Big deal, God bless you. Driving a 10 second heat machine in blazing heat. Not for me. Nice to see you have 4 classic cars in the low 10’s (as per the topic and goals of the OP!)
I just made the mention of what I’d rather not put up with in a 10 second street strip car. You seem to come back fist/chest pumping that you can. God bless ya! Keep on keepin on being the hero for us all. (And 1 upping me as if there was a reason to be better and number 1? What’s with that?!?!)
I’ll sit here in the A/C cheering you on.
All hail the iron man “318willrun!”
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Garry in AZ
Building a 9 second Valiant
Okay, I am building a 67 Valiant that I hope to get into the low tens or maybe even high 9's with, and I know what I've done, and what things are costing, so I might be able to give you some real world perspective. My car is being built to the NHRA rulebook, and is fundamentally a race car. I will occasionally drive it on the street, but it's a race car first. Probably the first thing I'll tell you isn't something you want to hear. Any older modified car that runs 10 second 1/4 miles, is not going to be a very streetable vehicle. The modifications needed to the chassis, suspension, and drivetrain will make it a bit of a handful on the street. Either accept that now, or build a nice 12 second car, which is way more fun on the street anyway. Most people who haven't been in one don't seem to understand how much difference there is between a mid 12 second car and a mid 10 second car. It's night and day, chalk and cheese.
First of all, to achieve your 10 second performance goals, you need to focus on several things that are not engine related. A ten second car is going to reach 130+ mph in the lights, so it needs to be safe. A roll cage should be a very high priority item.
Serious brakes. Don't even think of retaining any part of the cars original braking system, it all needs to be upgraded.
Traction. You can have all the horsepower in the world and it won't do you any good if you can't get the car to hook up. This means wider tires than will currently fit on the car, narrowed axle, wheel tubs, and likely a completely new style of rear suspension. (my car uses a narrowed Ford 9" with a 4-link, and adjustable coil overs) And if you want to run 10's you will need slicks, which you can't run on the street, so that means two sets of rear wheels and tires.
Chassis stiffening. You want the car to transfer weight when you accelerate, so you will need to stiffen the chassis. Think frame connectors, torque boxes and again, a strong roll cage.
Weight. The lighter the car is, the quicker it will accelerate. You should try to get the car under 3000 pounds fully equipped ready to race. This means foregoing the usual niceties in a street car... no AC, power accessories, no carpet, no fancy upholstery, etc. Suddenly it's not as inviting a place to be, especially if you want to drive it on the street regularly.
Drivetrain. To get a 3000 pound car in the tens is going to mean 550 to 600 horsepower. Now you need a convertor, transmission, driveshaft, engine mounts, cooling system, and fuel system to support that motor. Unless your name is Dick Landy or Ronnie Sox don't even consider a manual transmission.
Money. As other have pointed out, speed costs money, and the faster you want to go, the costs climb exponentially. Paying people to build the car will easily double the final cost.
Here are some of the costs I have incurred while building mine, doing all the work myself except for building the engine and trans.
Roll cage - 650
Racing seats - 700
Fibreglass bumpers - 450
Sandblasting and epoxy undercoat - 2500
Gerst K member - 3700
S&W back half kit - 1800
9" narrowed rear - 3200
Baer Brakes - 1800
Strange shocks - 550
Fuel cell, pump, regulator, lines, - 1500.
720 HP naturally aspirated engine - 19,800
Trans and convertor - 3300
Wheels and tires - 2000
As you can see, I have almost 40 grand into the project and it's not painted, wired, plumbed, or cooled yet. I fully expect to spend another 15 grand before it's done. Perhaps these facts will help you adjust your goals, or just make you start saving money. Either way, have fun with it!
First of all, to achieve your 10 second performance goals, you need to focus on several things that are not engine related. A ten second car is going to reach 130+ mph in the lights, so it needs to be safe. A roll cage should be a very high priority item.
Serious brakes. Don't even think of retaining any part of the cars original braking system, it all needs to be upgraded.
Traction. You can have all the horsepower in the world and it won't do you any good if you can't get the car to hook up. This means wider tires than will currently fit on the car, narrowed axle, wheel tubs, and likely a completely new style of rear suspension. (my car uses a narrowed Ford 9" with a 4-link, and adjustable coil overs) And if you want to run 10's you will need slicks, which you can't run on the street, so that means two sets of rear wheels and tires.
Chassis stiffening. You want the car to transfer weight when you accelerate, so you will need to stiffen the chassis. Think frame connectors, torque boxes and again, a strong roll cage.
Weight. The lighter the car is, the quicker it will accelerate. You should try to get the car under 3000 pounds fully equipped ready to race. This means foregoing the usual niceties in a street car... no AC, power accessories, no carpet, no fancy upholstery, etc. Suddenly it's not as inviting a place to be, especially if you want to drive it on the street regularly.
Drivetrain. To get a 3000 pound car in the tens is going to mean 550 to 600 horsepower. Now you need a convertor, transmission, driveshaft, engine mounts, cooling system, and fuel system to support that motor. Unless your name is Dick Landy or Ronnie Sox don't even consider a manual transmission.
Money. As other have pointed out, speed costs money, and the faster you want to go, the costs climb exponentially. Paying people to build the car will easily double the final cost.
Here are some of the costs I have incurred while building mine, doing all the work myself except for building the engine and trans.
Roll cage - 650
Racing seats - 700
Fibreglass bumpers - 450
Sandblasting and epoxy undercoat - 2500
Gerst K member - 3700
S&W back half kit - 1800
9" narrowed rear - 3200
Baer Brakes - 1800
Strange shocks - 550
Fuel cell, pump, regulator, lines, - 1500.
720 HP naturally aspirated engine - 19,800
Trans and convertor - 3300
Wheels and tires - 2000
As you can see, I have almost 40 grand into the project and it's not painted, wired, plumbed, or cooled yet. I fully expect to spend another 15 grand before it's done. Perhaps these facts will help you adjust your goals, or just make you start saving money. Either way, have fun with it!
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....Good, stay home!
I have the unfortunate location of living east of and no choice but to travel through the city to get to a track and hence why I mentioned that for ME. I really don’t care about your trial and tribulations on traveling to the track with a 10 second car. You do you and what ever you can tolerate. (SNL) God bless ya.
Big deal, God bless you. Driving a 10 second heat machine in blazing heat. Not for me. Nice to see you have 4 classic cars in the low 10’s (as per the topic and goals of the OP!)
I just made the mention of what I’d rather not put up with in a 10 second street strip car. You seem to come back first/chest pumping that you can. God bless ya! Keep on keepin on being the hero for us all. (And 1 upping me as if there was a reason to be better and number 1?)
I’ll sit here in the A/C cheering you on.
All hail the iron man “318willrun!”
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Dartsun
Mopar Dude
I wanna do my 69 Dart with a 392 crate and 6spd with my Gerst front end. I’m hoping to be in mid 11s as daily driver. I’d be happy with that. Even with doing most of not all work myself it’s over 40k in parts. Dustin
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
I’d be content with low to mid 13’s. Mine is a true street car. Out here in Ca. Stop lights every block and traffic up the wazoo, hard to get a halfway safe area to put it to the wood for than 10 seconds much less 12-13. I consider mine a stoplight to stoplight boulevard bruiser. Couldn’t personally imagine enjoying driving a true 10 second car on the streets around here.
Med up?!)!LOL.... I got lots of blessings
Take your own advice!
Never mind the childish potshot name changing joker games that I’m sure your laughing at along with fart jokes.
P.S. - sorry your miserable in the big city, but that wasn't asked by the OP either
There you go “Assuming” again. That is unfortunate. You know what .... that old Bad News Bears ...
Assume.....
*** - U - me
Now I have to spend time correcting your stupid *** to fix it all. Well, only half of it.
You stated;
“Sorry” that’s a lie.
“I’m miserable” that’s incorrect
“”In the big city” that is incorrect
Wasn’t asked by the op, while correct, your also guilty of the same thing dislike the traveling wondering ways of the threads conversation. That makes you a “Hypocrite.”
And a bit of an *** to split hairs in retort.
Good job!
Your addition to this thread is a classic case of non helpful retorts only extending the threads worth further don’t the **** level of quality threads.
But somewhere in your grey matter, your justified!
So let’s all hail the mighty 318willrun for his 4 classic 10 second cars he drives through the United States blessing is with his presence and glory of how it’s done.
All hail 318willrun.
Shall we call you King or his Majesty? Emperor?
Or shall we just skip to GOD?!?!
I’ll just call you Richard. (Dick for short)
....
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Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I think Street Outlaws has blurred reality of how fast, hard and expensive a ten second car is.
You can put a China turbo on a junk yard LS and have something for a while but it's a short while. Build a 650 or 700 hp big block that makes 2000 pass's with a few refreshes and you have something.
You can put a China turbo on a junk yard LS and have something for a while but it's a short while. Build a 650 or 700 hp big block that makes 2000 pass's with a few refreshes and you have something.
funny you mention this. A guy at our track did this exact thing, a Chinese turbo on a ls. Drives it on the highway 70 mph and runs 9.40's. Did it all summer too...
Thank You. Well said
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
That’s friggin awesome, but if it’s got a 4” crank it ain’t a 318 and should not be referred to as such.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
This is my game plan, just a stroked small block, 9" and 3.55, but aiming for low 9s, but mine has efi and twins lol
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
The only thing I would like to say is a manual trans car would be totally awesome in the 10's. I'm saving up for the McLeod Soft Lok clutch for mine. Hope to be high 11's. that's a stretch too. we'll see.
yeah, boost changes the world !! Nice build!
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
That's alot like all these 600 hp diesels nowadayswhen I was in High School, every 350 camaro was 400 hp... LOL. Beat 'em with 318 2bbls though...
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
I built my 440 in 91 and it's been refreshed three times, this last time I decided to slow the rpm down and only run it to 6500 instead of 7200 with a cam of 20 degrees less duration. I have no idea of haw many pass's the thing has but we Magnafluxe the block, crank and heads gave it a line bore and new H beam rods just because. The 915 heads got new valves and hardware 2.18/1.81. This refresh was 7k before the dyno time. I've never blown a motor and not looking forward to doing one so I maintain them well, this is part of having a ten second ride.
Here's the results.
The dates are incorrect, it never changes. Lol
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
383Scampman
Well-Known Member
A 10 second motor will cost you $10k . that's just the beginning . A 9.90 car will cost you $1800 more just for the personal protection equipment . The cage = $ . Get ready for maintainence and parts failures .
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I'm gonna try the aluminum flywheel too. You know of a good source to get the clutch from?
I forget, but can I run a hydraulic clutch slave with this clutch? mine is the American Powertrain kit.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Don't know about the hydraulic clutch slave.
You can get a custom clutch from Advanced Clutches. That's Rob Youngblood. He's up in Idaho. You can also get a clutch from Black Magic Clutches. That's Cale Aronson. I forget where he is.
The nice thing about using one of these guys is you can get a custom lever or other things that may make your combo better. I'm using a custom lever. I forget why now, but at the time it made sense.
KINGWILLRUN to you sir... lol
You got it, “KINGWILLRUN” as I will Announce it after all of your post so all day those who read will bow and worship to you!
1970boy
Well-Known Member
What’s your motor stroked to and what did it start out at? Turbos seem like the only way any of this could be manageable
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