How would you build a low 10’s street car

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AndyF said:
My Duster will run 10's and it is streetable. It isn't very comfortable to drive on the street and I wouldn't take it on a road trip but I can jump in it and go run errands if I want. But cars like this are not easy to build. You either need a lot of money or you need a lot of time, talent and tools. Almost every car guy I know has an unfinished project sitting in their garage because they all ran into problems they couldn't solve.
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I have a pretty much finished car in my garage , and ran into a problem me or fast hasnt come up with an answer yet . I accidently grounded out the pos. battery post when putting a bigger new battery in , ecu wont lite up and fuel pump doesn`t come on when I turn the key, checked every fuse I can find, hot wired the pump/good ------------any ideas ??
 
famous bob said:
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I have a pretty much finished car in my garage , and ran into a problem me or fast hasnt come up with an answer yet . I accidently grounded out the pos. battery post when putting a bigger new battery in , ecu wont lite up and fuel pump doesn`t come on when I turn the key, checked every fuse I can find, hot wired the pump/good ------------any ideas ??
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Ground wires ?
 
famous bob said:
View attachment 1715642683

I have a pretty much finished car in my garage , and ran into a problem me or fast hasnt come up with an answer yet . I accidently grounded out the pos. battery post when putting a bigger new battery in , ecu wont lite up and fuel pump doesn`t come on when I turn the key, checked every fuse I can find, hot wired the pump/good ------------any ideas ??
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Oh blah blah blah. I ain't ever seen your car anywhere but in the garage. lol
 
famous bob said:
View attachment 1715642683

I have a pretty much finished car in my garage , and ran into a problem me or fast hasnt come up with an answer yet . I accidently grounded out the pos. battery post when putting a bigger new battery in , ecu wont lite up and fuel pump doesn`t come on when I turn the key, checked every fuse I can find, hot wired the pump/good ------------any ideas ??
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Probably fried your electronics
 
I am WAY late to this thread, and i havent read ten pages yet, so....
This is what i would do, one of two methods...
Easy: buy a late model performance car, and add enough power adder to make enough power to simply have enough suds to run tens, with or without traction. 35 to 50 k.
Hard: buy an ex race car, as light as you can find, less motor and trans.Of course, make SURE it has a clean title and can be registered. It should have good traction, and a bar/cage and the frame tied, so you wont have to. Build a moderately mild big block, as big as you can afford (stroker small block, if it HAS to be a small block!), a trans that can stand the power you have to make, then add the power adder of your choice. Nitrous has the least initial investment, but the greatest ongoing cost. But it only costs when you use it.
Number two technique works best on a car that doesnt have to be smogged any more, or in a place where there are no smog checks.
I think the second recipe can be done for well under twenty grand, i did mine for just a little over ten, but that was a while ago. Of course, a mopar will probably cost twice what a chevy or ford would cost.
 
Clearly I am ten pages late, but having read a lot of it and skipped some I did catch Copes last post. I could not agree more. I too have a purpose built car for track. Even dash is fiberglass. I can kind of drive it on street but it is miserable. I have to wear ear plugs while I drive it. Spooled rear end suks. I am consistently high tens and make no mistake there is thousands of dollars between high tens and low tens. I cannot tell you how many 10 sec cars in this country get 12 and 13 sec time slips every weekend. Like Cope simply getting in and out of it is a yoga class, and he has a fancy car with a hook for his steering wheel. I just toss mine on the dash! This is a fun thread and to several posters point it is certainly old technology and new. Like many my car is a blend of old and new, EFI mega squirt fuel management because I suck at carb tuning. Sitting atop a stroked 440. Totally void of any creature comforts. But it is in fact plated and insured so I can drive it to the occasional cruise event. Provided it is within four gallons of range!

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Daily driver super streetable 10 second car, I definitely go with low rpm power with peak power around 4500 rpm which would be with a large displacement and power adder like turbo or nitrous etc.. Eg. 0.9:1, hp:cid, 500-540 big block, so like 400-500 hp NA and 100-250 hp extra with power adder. Wouldn't require much in the gearing and stall department.

Something like this 500 Caddy engine just a little more aggressive.

 
273 said:
Daily driver super streetable 10 second car, I definitely go with low rpm power with peak power around 4500 rpm which would be with a large displacement and power adder like turbo or nitrous etc.. Eg. 0.9:1, hp:cid, 500-540 big block, so like 400-500 hp NA and 100-250 hp extra with power adder. Wouldn't require much in the gearing and stall department.

Something like this 500 Caddy engine just a little more aggressive.

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I asked Richard if he could do a mopar engine, he said gone watch mopar videos...he is on the **** list short version
 
Holdener has done nitrous tests of well built 496 and 540 chevies that made over 600 hp at 5500rpm n/a. That was BEFORE the nitrous was used. That kind of power would get my junk deep into the low 10s, shift at 5500 and live forever. If i shift those engines at 7000, (700hp+) mid nines would be possible. Then add in 200hp of nitrous? Whew!
The problem is, mopar parts that can make that kind of power cost two to three times as much money (heads and aftermarket blocks). And finding a chassis that can put that kind of power to the gtound.....?
 
Gather up 60k cash.
Say good bye to it.
Say good bye to another 15k every year. More if you race it regularly.
Hope your neighbors don\t hate you.
 
33IMP said:
Holdener has done nitrous tests of well built 496 and 540 chevies that made over 600 hp at 5500rpm n/a. That was BEFORE the nitrous was used. That kind of power would get my junk deep into the low 10s, shift at 5500 and live forever. If i shift those engines at 7000, (700hp+) mid nines would be possible. Then add in 200hp of nitrous? Whew!
The problem is, mopar parts that can make that kind of power cost two to three times as much money (heads and aftermarket blocks). And finding a chassis that can put that kind of power to the gtound.....?
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Very true about the price difference between chevrolame & MOPAR. Maybe it's time we all band together & revolt !
 
33IMP said:
Holdener has done nitrous tests of well built 496 and 540 chevies that made over 600 hp at 5500rpm n/a. That was BEFORE the nitrous was used. That kind of power would get my junk deep into the low 10s, shift at 5500 and live forever. If i shift those engines at 7000, (700hp+) mid nines would be possible. Then add in 200hp of nitrous? Whew!
The problem is, mopar parts that can make that kind of power cost two to three times as much money (heads and aftermarket blocks). And finding a chassis that can put that kind of power to the gtound.....?
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Thats what we bought engine wise for this years brkt racing, a mild 695hp 589ci mega block wedge -13 headed roller cammed motor complete, but only on 10:1CR shift it at 5700-ish max hp...trap@6200, got it to 10.3's@3800lb NA through full exhausts. To get it reliable and to hook with 700+ftlbs a built 727/converter/Dana/TTI's/caltracs-mono's 9-ways etc was bought..... the bill was over $30000 to buy it all and have it fitted by the speedshop.
 
33IMP said:
Holdener has done nitrous tests of well built 496 and 540 chevies that made over 600 hp at 5500rpm n/a. That was BEFORE the nitrous was used. That kind of power would get my junk deep into the low 10s, shift at 5500 and live forever. If i shift those engines at 7000, (700hp+) mid nines would be possible. Then add in 200hp of nitrous? Whew!
The problem is, mopar parts that can make that kind of power cost two to three times as much money (heads and aftermarket blocks). And finding a chassis that can put that kind of power to the gtound.....?
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A 600 hp Mopar engine is easy to build and not all that expensive. 440 block, 4.25 crank, 7.10 rods, 10:1 pistons, TF 240 heads, TF intake and a cam in the 250 range. So that is the easy part. You'll have to spend some money on the transmission to make it safe and reliable and you'll need a Dana 60 or something equally strong out back. After that it is just power to weight ratio and some suspension tuning. A Holley Sniper setup makes 600 hp more streetable since you can easily program a street tune and a race tune.
 
AndyF said:
A 600 hp Mopar engine is easy to build and not all that expensive. 440 block, 4.25 crank, 7.10 rods, 10:1 pistons, TF 240 heads, TF intake and a cam in the 250 range. So that is the easy part. You'll have to spend some money on the transmission to make it safe and reliable and you'll need a Dana 60 or something equally strong out back. After that it is just power to weight ratio and some suspension tuning. A Holley Sniper setup makes 600 hp more streetable since you can easily program a street tune and a race tune.
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"Not all that expensive". How much is that crank and those heads? "Not all that expensive" to one is "must be nice" to another.
 
Hot Metal said:
Thats what we bought engine wise for this years brkt racing, a mild 695hp 589ci mega block wedge -13 headed roller cammed motor complete, but only on 10:1CR shift it at 5700-ish max hp...trap@6200, got it to 10.3's@3800lb NA through full exhausts. To get it reliable and to hook with 700+ftlbs a built 727/converter/Dana/TTI's/caltracs-mono's 9-ways etc was bought..... the bill was over $30000 to buy it all and have it fitted by the speedshop.
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I wonder how fast that engine would be in a 2800 pound a-body with a back half?
 
RustyRatRod said:
"Not all that expensive". How much is that crank and those heads? "Not all that expensive" to one is "must be nice" to another.
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I figure about a grand for the 440 block, and machine work,(minimum!)(add in what, another three grand more, if you want a good aftermarket block?), 2500 for the crank,rod, and piston kit, 2300 for 240s with hr springs and titanium retainers, 400 for the intake, 400 for the sft cam and lifters, (lots more if you want a roller), 1100 for a dominator or holley sniper, 1700 if you want the super sniper.
Then you need... a good oil pan and pump and pickup, or exterior oiling, rings and bearings, good head gaskets, pushrods, a real good ignition system and distributor, gaskets, and who knows what else. Probably another two grand.
Im not sure that sounds inexpensive to me. Large power dependable engines arent inexpensive.
 
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33IMP said:
I figure about a grand for the 440 block, and machine work,(minimum!)(add in what, another three grand more, if you want a good aftermarket block?), 2500 for the crank,rod, and piston kit, 2300 for 240s with hr springs and titanium retainers, 400 for the intake, 400 for the sft cam and lifters, (lots more if you want a roller), 1100 for a dominator or holley sniper, 1700 if you want the super sniper.
Then you need... a good oil pan and pump and pickup, or exterior oiling, rings and bearings, good head gaskets, pushrods, a real good ignition system and distributor, gaskets, and who knows what else. Probably another two grand.
Im not sure that sounds inexpensive to me.
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It's not in my budget, either. And to be clear, I'm not complaining. I'm happy with the hand I've been dealt. I have a great feeling of reward when bring a pile of parts back from the dead that most people would have scrapped. I'm not sure I would change how I'm doing it even if things changed for us financially. I have a TON of fun with it.
 
33IMP said:
I figure about a grand for the 440 block, and machine work,(minimum!)(add in what, another three grand more, if you want a good aftermarket block?), 2500 for the crank,rod, and piston kit, 2300 for 240s with hr springs and titanium retainers, 400 for the intake, 400 for the sft cam and lifters, (lots more if you want a roller), 1100 for a dominator or holley sniper, 1700 if you want the super sniper.
Then you need... a good oil pan and pump and pickup, or exterior oiling, rings and bearings, good head gaskets, pushrods, a real good ignition system and distributor, gaskets, and who knows what else. Probably another two grand.
Im not sure that sounds inexpensive to me. Large power dependable engines arent inexpensive.
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600hp ain't cheap..... That who knows what else is what I call incidentals and it will nickel and dime a build.... The cheapest route is to find a known working car that you can verify the work that was done to it and buy if for about 30% of the build. They are out there but it takes a while to find the right one if you get lucky.... I personally have never owned one and may never at this point. But I have been around a bunch of them and it ain't cheap and for the most part uncomfortable. Unless we go late model....

JW
 
missing linc said:
Gather up 60k cash.
Say good bye to it.
Say good bye to another 15k every year. More if you race it regularly.
Hope your neighbors don\t hate you.
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As a wise man once told me you are spending money you don't have trying to impress people you don't know.... Your summation is pretty much spot on!

JW
 
33IMP said:
I wonder how fast that engine would be in a 2800 pound a-body with a back half?
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60 Foot E.T. : 1.29
1/8 Mile E.T. : 5.85
1/8 Mile Trap Speed : 116.23
1/4 Mile E.T. : 9.27
1/4 Mile Trap Speed : 145
He paid about $12000 for the engine, pro built and dyno'd@EDA, new pistons/rods/crank/cam etc., we were lucky it came through the racing fraternity, wasn't enough hp for most and a mismatch of parts really, low comp/small cam/with race heads but was perfect for us as a street/strip motor, owner was looking to go from 12.5's with a mild 440 to 10.5's...job done, no power adders in our NSS class....only downside is its on its last bore (4.565) but the rpm we push it to it should last.

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We got a guy here who races a 3900lb Challenger with the same type 580 motor, same heads but its good spec, 12.5:1 750 roller, twin Doms etc. makes around 890hp, runs 9.6's, put that in a 2800 A-bod and it'll go 8.50's, some like to do it the hard way.
 
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