How would you build a low 10’s street car

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400 stroker, procharger, Tremac 6 speed with double overdrive(5&6) 3.55 rear gears. Rollbar and frame connectors double adjustable shocks front and rear. Modest cam and compression with enough boost to make 700 hp. 10 flat ETs when sorted out.
A more modern approach as said earlier- Forced induction on a newer muscle car. For about$8000 i can put my stock 5.0 2019 mustang into the low tens. Whipple supercharger, tune, sticky tires. Bone stock it ran 115 mph in 98 percent humidity spinning badly on the first three shifts.(12.28et)
 
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rumblefish360 said:
That’s opinion and point of view not worth arguing it, again, that title says what now? For what car now?

@Bluecuda340 I understand what you mean and where your going with it. It’s really all in the head. Your max lift number is pretty good. If possible, compare the flow rates under the curve. (AKA The whole range)

That Hemi is a killer unit.

Did or has anybody seen any of Brett Miller’s ported HEMI head flow specs?

Good luck with the W2 issues. Yea! Hot Rodding and racing problems .... ugh! At least it is rewarding when you figure it out and get the pay off.
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good buddy of mine has a set of apache heads Brett is finishing for a super stock Challenger.
They go 380ish.
Its 380 some odd cubes and the hope is that it will tickle 800 horsepower.
Hoping for real low 9’s at the legal weight which is 3300 ish( forget exactly what it is)
 
Hate to say this, but dont let all the old dudes who say "you cant drive it!!!", or "why do that to a Cuda!!!", or any other stuff like that deter you. As you can see if you sort thru all the stuff on here, its doable, a few different ways, with a few different budgets.

"No price is too high, for he who chooses to pay it..."
 
Okibonoe said:
Hate to say this, but dont let all the old dudes who say "you cant drive it!!!", or "why do that to a Cuda!!!", or any other stuff like that deter you. As you can see if you sort thru all the stuff on here, its doable, a few different ways, with a few different budgets.

"No price is too high, for he who chooses to pay it..."
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I appreciate the words of encouragement I usually don’t weigh in when people say that because either way it’s my car and I’ll do what I want with it and half the time they assume I’m going to do the worst. I’ll admit I’m a young guy but I’m not distasteful and I’m not going to butcher the car I worked my *** off to buy and if they’re so disgruntled by what I’m doing with my car buy it from me lol and they can do what they want with it
 
1970boy said:
I appreciate the words of encouragement I usually don’t weigh in when people say that because either way it’s my car and I’ll do what I want with it and half the time they assume I’m going to do the worst. I’ll admit I’m a young guy but I’m not distasteful and I’m not going to butcher the car I worked my *** off to buy and if they’re so disgruntled by what I’m doing with my car buy it from me lol and they can do what they want with it
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That's my outlook. The only thing still Formula S about my 68 is the little badges on the fender. If someone wants to save it bad enough everything is for sale if you put enough commas in the price.
 
I havent read through every post and you may have already stated it, but your plan needs to realistic with specific goals. I'm not saying it cant be done but based on what I have read it's going to be difficult ( daily driver & lack of mechanical exp) as well as cost buckets of cash.
Just to clarify what is a daily driver to you? Miles a day? Traffic conditions? Highways or roads? Weather conditions? How many gallons to the mile are you willing to accept?
Probably just as important, what is your budget? All of these factors will determine if it can be done.
Dont know your age, which doesnt matter really to me, and am not trying to discourage anyone, but there is a lot of knowledge here, some guys have been doing this for a long time... hotrodding is all trial and error filled along with some successes...but its expensive.
Here is an article about a Duster running 10.7 w/ slicks, not a daily but a "street" car. The specs on motor and drive line are at the end of the article.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1975-duster-real-deal-10-second-motor-street-car/
 
Mike67 said:
He said he has no mechanical knowledge, saving him time...probably money and an avenue to achieve his goal. Demon will hold value where as a 10 second 68 Barracuda wont.
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A Demon won't hold value if you are drag racing it. You will likely cook it within 20 runs.

I've run against a couple Hellcats with drag pack and little slicks with my low 10 sec '1974 N/A 451 Duster. When ambers flashed? Never saw them again.

My new nemesis is a kid and his dad with a '67 454 Chevelle. Dual quads hanging out. Twice he lined up in the next lane on a slow test and tune Sunday. And twice I won because of slight hole shot. That damn kid hung on my door the whole way. Slowly realing me in. Just ran out of track. I don't think he worries about "Demons" either?

OLD SCHOOL BABY!

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cojohnso said:
A Demon won't hold value if you are drag racing it. You will likely cook it within 20 runs.

I've run against a couple Hellcats with drag pack and little slicks with my low 10 sec '1974 N/A 451 Duster. When ambers flashed? Never saw them again.

My new nemesis is a kid and his dad with a '67 454 Chevelle. Dual quads hanging out. Twice he lined up in the next lane on a slow test and tune Sunday. And twice I won because of slight hole shot. That damn kid hung on my door the whole way. Slowly realing me in. Just ran out of track. I don't think he worries about "Demons" either?

OLD SCHOOL BABY!

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Your path to streetable tens certainly works. But consider what can be done with newer combos. The latest factory supercharged racecars run mid to low 8s, some in the sevens! And they are much more reliable than most cars as fast.
For a cheaper , reliable low ten second car, copying what they have done to some degree is the ticket. My guess is a 6.4 hemi with the right forged pistons and better rods will hold up at 750 hp supercharged. Trans? Maybe some clutch and converter upgrades? Most importantly don't try and set the car up for killer 60 fts. An extra .10 to .20 here can be a great parts saver, allowing a lot of fun before breakage.
 
gregsdart said:
400 stroker, procharger, Tremac 6 speed with double overdrive(5&6) 3.55 rear gears. Rollbar and frame connectors double adjustable shocks front and rear. Modest cam and compression with enough boost to make 700 hp. 10 flat ETs when sorted out.
A more modern approach as said earlier- Forced induction on a newer muscle car. For about$8000 i can put my stock 5.0 2019 mustang into the low tens. Whipple supercharger, tune, sticky tires. Bone stock it ran 115 mph in 98 percent humidity spinning badly on the first three shifts.(12.28et)
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Right now you can pick up 2019 5.0 Mustangs for $27000US here in Canada...so you could build a new 10 Second car for $35000...with full Warranty.
 
All thoughs new combos are with factory power adders. If I added 12-15lbs of boost? 8s no problem. Possibly nipping into the 7s. My cage wouldn't pass for that performance. Drive train would probably hold for a couple dozen runs. But 1000 horse will find a weakness. And exploit that weakness over and over. The mid 8 second stockers are stripped to the bone by some very talented sportsman teams. Scratching out every possible HP rules allow. Very few can compete at that level.

I know it has the word "Stock" is in the class name. But make no mistake. They are race cars.
 
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cojohnso said:
All thoughs new combos are with factory power adders. If I added 12-15lbs of boost? 8s no problem. Possibly nipping into the 7s. My cage wouldn't pass for that performance. Drive train would probably hold for a couple dozen runs. But 1000 horse will find a weakness. And exploit that weakness over and over. The mid 8 second stockers are stripped to the bone by some very talented sportsman teams. Scratching out every possible HP rules allow. Very few can compete at that level.

I know it has the word "Stock" is in the class name. But make no mistake. They are race cars.
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I made the referance to the stock class for one purpose; to outline some of what it takes to make a street motor reliable with some boost. Not to the level they do, but as an example of what might need changing. Like i said earlier- a stock 485 hp 6.4 should get forged pistons and rods for some where over 4 psi boost? Then you can push it some for short bursts, but certainly not to the level of a factory drag car.
 
SpaceDemon said:
But ok, say you're just a masochist, and don't mind swapping to dead shocks, the front and rear tires to skinnies and slicks, swap the third member to a 4.xx, and heat up a bottle for a 200 shot of spray. Is that a possible way to make it into the 10's?
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I'll bite on this.

My car (71 Dart) is a full on "Race car" with a licence plate and insurance. It is as gutted as it can get. Zero creature comforts. That was not even a thought when i built her.

Full aluminum interior, including kirky race buckets. (Two of em now..)
29 10.5 15 slicks, skinnys, spool with 4.88 gear. No overdrive. No sound deadening or heat shield. No AC. 12 point cage.

It is not a fun car to drive. In fact its terrible to drive.

But i do drive it. It is the most awsome, ridiculous car most folks have even seen on the street.

When i pull up to a light people are always yelling at me. I can only tell if they like it or hate it by the thumbs up or the one finger salute cuz i cant hear **** in the car...

It needs fuel every time i fire it up.

It cant really go on the freeway beacuse its un bearable to listen to the engine scream while getting passed by semi trucks and turning 4,000 RPM....

its not technically even legal on the street but..... ya know, just be cool about it....right??

But man it is fun to roll up somewhere, be it breakfast on sunday with my lady or just driving to the store..
Pull up, fenders shaking, enging sticking out the hood shaking, cam thumping..

Reach up, Turn off ignition, turn off the stupid loud fuel pump, remove steering wheel and hang it from the hook on the cage, un latch the 5 point harness, move the ahoulder belts out of the way and behind the high back kirky so that when you get back in they dont stab you in the spine.... :) , open door, climb over and out of the cage, close door ( hopefully not on seat belt) walk to rear of car and shut down battery/eletrics and walk away.. .

Man.... it is good......

And my car cant even run tens yet but the car is built for that speed.
 
cojohnso said:
A Demon won't hold value if you are drag racing it. You will likely cook it within 20 runs.

I've run against a couple Hellcats with drag pack and little slicks with my low 10 sec '1974 N/A 451 Duster. When ambers flashed? Never saw them again.

My new nemesis is a kid and his dad with a '67 454 Chevelle. Dual quads hanging out. Twice he lined up in the next lane on a slow test and tune Sunday. And twice I won because of slight hole shot. That damn kid hung on my door the whole way. Slowly realing me in. Just ran out of track. I don't think he worries about "Demons" either?

OLD SCHOOL BABY!

View attachment 1715479685
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The recycler looks like the cousin to my scrapper...
 
Okibonoe said:
This thread shows so much, yesterday versus tomorrow.
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Exactly!
But that is where the spirit of hotrodding lives. Modification, incorperating non stock/ different/newer engines, drivelines, change what ever you like! Like the first 392 early Hemi in a T bucket! Or two carbs on a model t 4, or aluminum shoes on a horse!!!!
(Lest we forget; the horse is the first internal, hydrocarbon burning thing to make horsepower! It turned hay into power!)
 
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I'm going to go a different route them everybody here. And will probably get scorned for it because it's not in the title.
You have no experience in these matter, right...........so go get yourself some!!
Start with a bigger camshaft,learn how to degree it in, to get the best of the cam. Then pull them hipo exhaust manifolds and put them on a shelf and install some headers.
Still vary street car, and a lot more fun........but you get your first taste of the trade off of the loss of bottom end torque for the increased rpm and power up top. AKA you got to slide that clutch just a little bit more then you had to before to get it rolling but MAN DOES IT SCOOT AFTER THAT.

When that becomes slow to you, and you want more....... time for some heads, bigger cam better tires and lower gear.
Now you have smiles for miles...........but the freeway is not so fun..........can keep up with traffic, but the radio need turned up to drown out your eng thats now reving 3500 rpm to do 60 mph.
Ease fix! Buy a gear vender(GVod) and drop that rpm back to a reasonable rpm on the highway.

So your great heads can handle a even bigger cam and it's still not fast enough. So max effort Roller cam goes in, alone with porting on them heads and new spring locks and retainers.......... you know by now that requires even lower rear end gears to make the combo happy. lower gear require more slick, which you have allread ground the lip off of your rear wheel well opening to accommodate the last tire upgrade. So now it time for tubs a leaf spring relocations(probably ss spring to cal tracks at this point) to get them big fat slick in there. You can't make all of this work right with then small exhaust pipe any more, and you headers are just to small. Big tube header and some small (LOUD)bullet muffler. because you just don't want to run 3.5 inch exhaust all the way back to the back bumper.

You can still drive it on the street, BUT street light to street light stomps is all the enjoyment you can get out of it any more on the street.
It has become a total annoyance to drive to the track at 3000 rpm even with the GVod and swapping from street tires to slick and waring out your lug nuts and stud....................Well it time for a trailer and a truck to pull it(It's still a streetcar......wink wink)
well it don't real matter because you made one pass and they kicked you off the track because you need a roll bar.............
ROLL BAR!!!!! well no! It time for a full roll CAGE!
By this time you would have already totally gutted you car so, street drive is only on warm DRY day because don't even have wiper blade.

The role cage has made you car feel much better at the track, but is slower because of the weight of the new roll cage.
Before you decide what's next to go faster you spin a main bearing if you lucky or throw the rod all the way out of the block.
You learn that the 340 (small block) can't turn 7500 and live with out some oil mod in the block to fix oil starvation issues.

So you build a stroker motor and have the heads ported some more, or go with a full race head. the 8 3/4 rear end chews every tooth off of the pinion gear and and cracks the side bearing cap in the process.

Time for a dana 60.......that will have new spring perches and tube/axles shortened to fit your combo.

With it being a stick shift car this step happened a long time ago!!!!!!!

This is called the slippery slope of DRAG RACING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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lol
not me!
Me and my car have been together sence the early 80. it's part of my sole!:wtf: :D
 
?
What you taking about willis

Edit, slow but got it!...............
 
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Cudafever said:
?
What you taking about willis

Edit, slow but got it!...............
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Sorry I meant This for the OP but This is the most interesting 9 page thread I've read. I too was on the path of trying to build a street/strip in the 10s car. I actually started a few years ago wanting to just wanting to do a 383bb 4 speed in my 1999 dakota r/t, seen a couple YouTube videos of a fairly racey 440 & he was running 12s, so scrapped that idea, found the last rust free $400.00 unmolested 1970 dart /6 car on planet earth...maybe in the galaxy. I then figured I'd do a budget 451 factory 440 crank cut down with "stealth" heads and a isky solid flat tappet. Then I bought a molnar 3.915 stroke crank some 6.70 rods that were cheap & had the 1.320 pistons that were for the 451 still for a street car then on FABO I started getting advice from a good mopar man with a 10 second small block 68 dart gts (430 cubes.)
Well let's just say I've bought some more stuff since now I'm aiming for a 10.0 car
Narrowed Dana 60 4.88 gears, going solid roller, external oiling system, trickflow heads, rockers, molnar power adder rods.
Well I have the parts for 2 nice engines, neither are done, but I can say the 471 should be around 680-700 up & will cost just under $14,000, I'm handy & ambitious have alot of tools & skills for the rest but also have a couple good people who are willing to help on the stuff I haven't done..like back half a car or have experience with a car like this.
Moral of the story is have an idea of what you want, find a trustworthy proven dude who does what they say & come up with a plan. For me it would've saved me thousands & hundreds of hours online finding info, which isn't bad for me..but my wife ain't to pleased lol. I told her when i met her I had chromes disease, she thought i said chrones....No, not chrones, CHROMES! I'm addicted to cars woman.
 
1970boy said:
I’ve got a 68 340 barracuda with a 4 speed and 3.55 rear gear it’s got a cam just a touch above stock and x heads, also got an LD340 intake with carter 1406 afb carb basically a stock rig but also have the hi-po exhaust manifolds, I want to get this car into the 10’s and still be streetable, how would you guys go about this? I eventually may want to turn the car into a daily so if mpgs can be kept in mind with the aforementioned goal that would be a plus. I was thinking something along the line of turbos, overdrive and 2.91’s but I’m just spitballing and have no real knowledge of mechanics behind me
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Good luck doing that yourself, especially starting with what you have. It would be easier, and probably cheaper, it just go buy a new Hellcat. The 2021 version will run mid 10's. 2021 Dodge Challenger SRT Super Stock Runs 10.5 Bone Stock Right Off The Dealer’s Lot!
 
My Duster will run 10's and it is streetable. It isn't very comfortable to drive on the street and I wouldn't take it on a road trip but I can jump in it and go run errands if I want. But cars like this are not easy to build. You either need a lot of money or you need a lot of time, talent and tools. Almost every car guy I know has an unfinished project sitting in their garage because they all ran into problems they couldn't solve.
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