Hp 273 photos needed

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toolmanmike

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I am close to start painting parts for my 273 project. Does anybody have photos of their engines so I get things painted right? Most of the paint was either gone, rusty or covered with grease and oil. I know the block, distributor, and the bellhousing are Mopar red. And speaking of Mopar red, I tried a can of NAPA Mopar red and it was more orange than red. What paint do you use? The water pump and crank pulley are low gloss black as is the alternator bracket. Anything else I'm missing? toolmanmike
 
Mike, here a pic of my engine bay.. I used Eastwood Paint. All the pulleys were black in 66 as well as alt brkt, etc.. summit sells it by the can
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4349218AB/

Manicine has it by the can as well
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/enginepaint.html

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More pictures, I have my Commando 273 on the engine stand freshly rebuilt! I have looked at many pictures, at many shows, and have seen a lot of variance. I am in "gazelle" mode and trying to get my car all together by the Hot Rod Power Tour in June. They are making a stop this year in my town, Hoover, Alabama!!!
 
The red you want is SHERWIN WILLIAMS (Intl. Harvester Red) KS130. They say it is an exact match for the 273 red (same for the 340 in my car).

I painted my stock intake with Napa, Inernational Harvester Red and it is RED.
 
The red you want is SHERWIN WILLIAMS (Intl. Harvester Red) KS130. They say it is an exact match for the 273 red (same for the 340 in my car).

I painted my stock intake with Napa, Inernational Harvester Red and it is RED.

I have heard the same in other forums. The MP paint is REALLY thin and almost see through, you got to do a few coats. Even the street orange took 3 coats just to cover the casting on the block, but it looks pretty good. Red, semi gloss black and chrome looks good. Hemi Orange with polished intake, valve covers, timing chain cover, pulleys and pan looks pretty good too.
 
The Mopar Red paint is the exact same as the duplicolor Chrysler Industrial Red. It is also an exact match to the red on the Air cleaner. I painted it with the duplicolor first, then topped with the Mopar paint. I think the mopar paint has more gloss in it.
 
This is Mopar red from Mancini. It did take multiple coats to cover well but (judging by the headache it gave me) it's good paint.

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Hey guys -- I have a request for some pics from the top down on a 273 with no air cleaner. I laid my manifold on my engine and the holes all line up but something doesn't look right so I'm looking for pics of the center part of the head to manifold. The center heat channels are exposed on the heads -- kind of a half moon looking chamber in the heads. The manifold is an Edelbrock D4B.
Thanks.
 
Aervoe Ford Red I believe is an exact match as well. All pulleys/brackets were satin black.
 
Other restoration pages say the Mopar brand red is not correct for the early red engines.

Please provide links to these other restoration pages. I want to believe, but I also know what color is on the air original cleaner as a match, and the the color that was on the engine, and is still on the original oil pan I bolted to the 318 that I put in when I had to pull the original 273 for refresh. I did find a second color of red only on the timing cover which gives me a little doubt in my reasoning.

--Tom
 
B E A U T I F U L engine SSHomer...but that aint the correct color of the early Mopar reds....way too orange. Part number P4349218 from Mopar Performance is NOT the correct red( sad to say). The closest color out of a rattle can that I have seen Is Krylon Farm & Implement #1818 Int'l Harvester red (( likely the same as the SHERWIN WILLIAMS (Intl. Harvester Red) KS130)) that 68formula told you about. THAT is the closest to original rattle can color you can get. The bad news is ( for whatever reason) that paint does not cure as shiny as you might think. I have been told by the guys at PPG ( painters supply & equip) that almost nothing in a rattle can will ever look as good as a catylized product and after trying both...I have to agree.
The red I had them mix for my 66 CUDA engine cost a wee bit over $115 JUST FOR THE RED. Apparently RED is the second most difficult color to cover ( next to yellow which must be painted white first )...something to do with the amount of pigment in red paints... who knows.
I went about a shade lighter than the harvester color mine is a lil more blood red but no where near the Mopar rattle can color....in fact side by side the mopar paint actually looks ORANGE next to mine. the Harvester red looks almost like Burgundy WINE...there is a lil too much blue in it for my taste. but after running for a few hours they all get a shade or 3 darker.
As far as the pullys go I consulted my resident experts, my two uncles both of whom worked for Chrysler back in the day. One was an inspector at the trenton engine plant 30 years, the other was a finish inspector at the Hamtramic assy plant 34 years. I worked at Mopar Parts for a lil over 10 years. beyond a shadow of doubt I can relate to you that there were color standards and when stock was exhausted they went to MOPAR parts and got whatever worked regardless of color. they also used whatever finishing/touch up gun had paint in it or one that was not being used. HENCE....the pullys were typically black, the dampers were typically the same color as the engine ( as was the bypass hose), the 64 - 66 commando/charger valve covers were wrinkle black. HOWEVER it was not uncommon to see the bottom pully the same color as the engine for an entire run (a run being 1000 cars ).....the paint color on the exhaust manifolds you see in RENDERINGS & drawings is crap, those are "beauty shots" for marketing. the only paint that got on the exhaust manifolds was overspray from the engine and most of it burned off first fire. The exhaust manifolds were cast iron covered with cosmoline, they were never painted that either uncle can recall and by my recollection as well taking us from 1949 thru 1982. they sometimes painted them prior to 1952 to prevent rust but customers and sales people complained so much about the smell & smoke they stopped, cosmoline burned off pretty much while being loaded & unloaded for transport.
Transmissions had any number of colors as long as they were either cast aluminum color or cast iron color depending on the parts, again whatever color got on the trans was considered overspray, trannys were not painted either. the trans pan, dipstick tube and dipstick had some kind of chromate type plating that kind of looked silver like dark galvanized but had a sort of weird green tint to it. On NON commado motors V8's they painted what ever was on the motor the same color as the motor. hoses springs clamps whatever. There was NO masking, they did however have lil carboard forms/plugs that fit into any open holes to prevent paint from getting into the engine. but NO ONE stopped the paint process if the carboard plugs were not present same with the valve covers. if they were off due to damage the valve train got painted, lightly as possible but visible......nonetheless....
NOW for the rub..... there is NO way to PROVE what I have just explained...... purists will say I am full of doo doo and why would Mopar sell paint that isnt the correct color.... I don' t know but they are doing it. I frequently take my uncles to park & shines around detroit, they LOVE early mopars and they can spot stuff - details that are uncanny....they end up talking to the restorer for hours, and they NEVER EVER critisize any restored vehicle. They talk amongst themselves and point out modifications and alterations from "Stock" that most folks would never ever notice...they are kind of becomming the "go to" guys around Detroits east side for this exact kind of trivia...mainly because they are correct a very amazing percentage of the time. This is not meant to be an END ALL KNOW ALL share. just a compilation of interesting information for you to use as you see fit. They are getting kinda OLD ( 80's)and going less & less and remembering less & less.....but they are still pretty sharp and even dulled by age, remember more about early mopars than most.
good luck in your build, I hope to see you at future WOODWARD cruises
66cuda
 
Hey guys -- I have a request for some pics from the top down on a 273 with no air cleaner. I laid my manifold on my engine and the holes all line up but something doesn't look right so I'm looking for pics of the center part of the head to manifold. The center heat channels are exposed on the heads -- kind of a half moon looking chamber in the heads. The manifold is an Edelbrock D4B.
Thanks.

The d4b is only for the 64-65 273's, so i am told. Want to sell it?
 
Thanks for all the good info 66cuda. This type of info is invaluable for us purists
or at least those of us who might as well paint things the correct color because we're going to paint it anyway. I would very much enjoy talking with your uncles
and if you have more of their stories to tell I'm sure you will have a large attentive audience here. I grabbed a can of Mopar red from Napa a month ago and painted my oil pan. I thought it looked way too orange to be red and I tend to agree with you and Formula and the others who have suggested IH red. You all have done the experiments and I thank you for that. Keep the suggestions and photos coming. Thanks, toolmanmike
 
Now, could we post some pictures showing the accessories attached. I am having a difficult time mounting the power steering pump. I have one that came from a 65 barracuda that had power steering and A/C. Is there a different bracket for the power steering pump due to the A/C? Also, I need some help in the pulley arrangement for power steering both with and without A/C ( I am going to add the A/C later, have the parts, just not the money/time right now) Pictures!!!!!
Also, do I have to change my steering column and if so, what length do I need? I think I bought one years ago as I have two columns in the garage and was thinking power steering back then, too.
 
The Prestolite dual point distributers were black per my recollection. Vibration dampers were engine color. But am willing to concede that there were No absolutes where Chrysler was concerned.
 
This thread is getting interesting.

The 1964 to 1966 273 HP were painted red. Things that were on the engine before it got paint was;
-thermostat housing
-balancer
-fuel pump
-bracket for return spring
-bracket for accelerator cable
-Distributor Prestolite
-Oil pressure sending unit
-Water temp sending unit
-exhaust manifolds incl gasket and heat shields
-brackets for the left side exhaust manifolds between the cylinder head to
manifold and manifold to engine block
-flex plate
-water plugs (2) on the lower block

The valve covers were not mounted. They cylinder top was not covered. I'm in the process of going through a unmolested 273 HP from 1965 with only 16000 miles on itand the whole inside of the top is painted red.

About the red paint I have talked with several restorers incl Ken Mosier and Frank Badalson and they refers to Totally Auto.

Picture showing evedence of paint from factory

The engine numbers were masked off from factory!

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This is a good example of how the engine color gets confused.

Pic #1 is a red with a hint of orange.

Pic #2 is more red but washed out.

Pic #3 is full on orange

But all three pics are of the same color.
 
So now I have to paint my beautiful, clean, pristine fuel pump and my cast iron distributor? All distributers I have seen were black, but I am not tapping into the mother-lode like you are! Also, the exhaust manifolds were red, too? Dang, and I spent tons of hours cleaning them, VHT priming, VHT Cast metal painting, and VHT cast iron dusting them to get the unpainted look (Kind of reminds me of the very expensive makeup that doesn't look like your wearing makeup the haircut that makes you look like you didn't get a haircut)! Do you have any pictures of the exhaust brackets in place, the bolts used, and also the power steering hardware on the pump, too? I have less than 30 days to get my motor in and fired for the first time, as well as get the interior installed and the brakes redone. I want to make the Hot Rod Power Tour this year! HELP!!!!!
 
True, but I am trying to learn this stuff before it is forgotten. While I don't care about a 100 point show car, I want to create a NEW car built the way it would have been if I were ordering it new.
 
Not a good picture, but I have my k-member attached to my engine. I will be lifting the car tomorrow, dropping the old K-member, and lowering the car onto this one! Days away from firing it up! WooHoo!:cheers:

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Here is a picture of the brackets for the manifolds as well as the flex plate.

The upper bracket is already painted but the lower one is all orginal. If you see the flexplate it has paint on the lower part of it. This means that the flexplate and the converter was mounted on the engine while it was painted!

The distributor should be painted about 4-5 inch up. Mine has paint even on the distributor id tag!

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