Hughes hyd roller lifters

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mopar4x4stroker

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Anyone using or familiar with these?

I guess they have a lowered oil band to help with oil control in LA blocks. Any idea what the "general" MAX lift is with these and others b4 you need a custom ground cam w/ a smaller base circle? I dont plan on lift higher than .525.

Any idea as to how long they've been on the market or who makes em?
How do they compare to crower, lunati, comp, crane in terms of quality/weight/geometry(lenght)/stability/ease of instillation/ect?

Thanks :)
 
I have these in my motor. Yes the oil band lowering does work. What you really need to know is that you'll need custom length Pushrods and that whatever heads you use will need work on them to allow for the weird angle that is given off by the longer length lifters. I was planning to use my x heads but when I found out about that angle I order up a pair of eddy heads because they are aluminum (which can easily be repaired vs cast iron heads if you screw up trying to get the angle right). You can probably do this with the RHS head but I went aluminum for the stated reason. You really can't get out of the problem no more which rocker arms you use (I have comp pro mags 1.5 ratio). As far as lift goes you need to determine which piston your using. Because I have flat top pistons I was limited to no more then .510 lift. This is all in my 340.
I suggest that you get yourself some 1.6 roller rocker arms (pro mags are good), a solid roller cam with a cast iron gear on it, and solid lifter roller lifters. The reason for this is the solid roller lifters are shorter than the hyd roller lifters and with the 1.6 rocker arms you can order a smaller solid lifter cam that will end up acting like a much bigger cam.
 
I have these in my motor. Yes the oil band lowering does work. What you really need to know is that you'll need custom length Pushrods and that whatever heads you use will need work on them to allow for the weird angle that is given off by the longer length lifters. I was planning to use my x heads but when I found out about that angle I order up a pair of eddy heads because they are aluminum (which can easily be repaired vs cast iron heads if you screw up trying to get the angle right). You can probably do this with the RHS head but I went aluminum for the stated reason. You really can't get out of the problem no more which rocker arms you use (I have comp pro mags 1.5 ratio). As far as lift goes you need to determine which piston your using. Because I have flat top pistons I was limited to no more then .510 lift. This is all in my 340.
I suggest that you get yourself some 1.6 roller rocker arms (pro mags are good), a solid roller cam with a cast iron gear on it, and solid lifter roller lifters. The reason for this is the solid roller lifters are shorter than the hyd roller lifters and with the 1.6 rocker arms you can order a smaller solid lifter cam that will end up acting like a much bigger cam.

This will be a 408 stroker w/ RHS heads (from Imm) for a 4x4 street motor. I planed on using KB416, there a 25cc dish(9.2:1) so valve/piston clearance "should" be ok. For rockers I agree, 1.6 would be better for a roller to achieve more lift with a smaller cam, but I already have a set of adj/alu 1.5's. I think my pushrods will have to be custom no matter what lifter style I choose.

I'd like to keep it hyd since I dont want to adjust the lash at every oil change. Although I might consider solids for a roller being that the lifter would be shorter to help with geometry. Then again this wont spin past 6,500 so I'm not to concerned with angle other than clearancing the heads like you mentioned.

I'd like to just run a flat, but with the 40+ posts and discussions of people wiping out there lobes, Ive lost all confidence in flat. Not to mention, I'll be rebuilding my trans, so I can just see myself trying to keep it running(if I get it running :sad:), then topping the coolant/trany, fixing fuel/oil/coolant/trany leaks all while keeping it at 2000-3500 rpm for 30min w/o boiling over haha yea right. I'll leave flat tappets to the pro's.

I just cant believe how hard it is to find some hyd rollers that will literally drop in w/o bushing or clearancing. It seams like a guessing game that I'm not comfortable gambling 700-1000 on. How many miles are on your hughes lifters, what rpm? How do 340 blocks compare to 80's 360 blocks in terms of lifter bore height/chamfer? Did you have to grind your block to clear the link bars? No idea's to who makes em or how long they've been out?

Thanks 1970Duster
 
If you haven't gotten started work on the block yet I strongly suggest you get yourself a late 80's early 90s roller block (pre magnum), this will save A LOT of time and effort with doing the roller cam because that block already cam with one and corrects the geometry need for that setup. The great thing about it is that it is still an LA block!
Hughes designed them but who actually makes them I don't know. Hughes Hyd roller lifters will drop right in and be fine. I didn't have to have anything done to the lifter bores at all. As far as lifter bore height mopar was all over the place and it wasn't until the roller blocks started coming out that they got a standard going. (Wish I would have know this before I bought my 340 block, I'd have a roller block in my car now).
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132009 Heads
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=131950 Pushrod
These two threads talk about this and I posted pictures in there so you can see what I'm talking about.
As far as RPM range, I'll have my rev limiter set at 6300 RPMs plus the fact I have an auto behind my motor it kind of limits how many rpms I can have anyway. I don't have my motor back from the machine shop yet, just waiting for the updated/fixed version of my crank scraper to come back from Florida.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ROS-99625/ These are the pistons I have. With my X-Heads I ended up have 9.7:1 but with to deal the is angle I bought these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60779/ which ended up bumping my compression to 10.7:1 or 11:1 (I can't remember of the top of my head).
 
I'm running 1.6 Hughes roller rockers and hyd roller lifters in my 340. No work done to the block. My lift is .544 with the 1.6 rockers. Brian at IMM is prepping my J-heads right now. I clearanced my pushrod holes with a carbide burr. Not the prettiest but I got the pushrod clearance I needed. It's better just have Brian do it for you. The RHS heads don't need to be clearance if I recall.
 
I'm running them in my Duster. Sure was nice to start the car and just let it idle.

I did have to clearance my block to get them to drop in, but don't think it was Hughes' fault. It was a ridge or bump that wouldn't allow the lifter set to drop in on the passenger side rear cylinder. Other than that it was a straight install, no work required.

I'm running an OEM Magnum cam, so I can't help on the lift question.

Part of the reason I went to the roller lifters was to fix the pushrod interference I was getting with my R/T heads. The heads are cast much thicker in that area than the OEM heads, and them machined, and the angle they machine them for is one with a taller lifter. The flat tappen cam and lifters put the pushrod up against the head. I could have clearanced the heads, but I didn't want to and it gave me another reason to run the rollers.
 
I'm running them in my Duster. Sure was nice to start the car and just let it idle.

I did have to clearance my block to get them to drop in, but don't think it was Hughes' fault. It was a ridge or bump that wouldn't allow the lifter set to drop in on the passenger side rear cylinder. Other than that it was a straight install, no work required.

I'm running an OEM Magnum cam, so I can't help on the lift question.

Part of the reason I went to the roller lifters was to fix the pushrod interference I was getting with my R/T heads. The heads are cast much thicker in that area than the OEM heads, and them machined, and the angle they machine them for is one with a taller lifter. The flat tappen cam and lifters put the pushrod up against the head. I could have clearanced the heads, but I didn't want to and it gave me another reason to run the rollers.

I'm lost here lol, so the hyd flats are taller than hughes roller? How many miles you have so far? How are you running a mag cam? You have an electric fuel pump?

Thanks DionR
 
I'm lost here lol, so the hyd flats are taller than hughes roller? How many miles you have so far? How are you running a mag cam? You have an electric fuel pump?

Thanks DionR

Sorry, I should have been clearer.

The rollers are taller, which pulls the bottom of the pushrod down towards the cylinders. The flat tappet lifters push the bottom of the pushrod away from the cylinder which made the pushrod contact the intake side of the pushrod passage in the cylinder head.

I don't have many miles yet. Put the motor back together last winter at a buddies shop and drove it home a couple of months ago. Since then I have been fixing other things and waiting for the weather to improve, so all I've done is drive it around town. Maybe 75 or 100 miles is all.

I bought a cam snout extension from Hughes so I can run a fuel pump eccentric. No electric pump right now.

Only problem I have right now is I think the pushrods are a bit long, about .080" preload. Talked to Hughes about it and they said it was about right, but I don't know. I think I will probably get some shorter ones at some point in time.
 
try mrl performance roller lifters mike says there the best roller lifter out there and designed by him to drop in any small block without any mods.
his ad is on the right of this page.
 
nothing like dragging up a post thread that is 2 yrs old to spam it....get a grip....
 
Anyone used this lifters is the ? I have a answer,and if someone spam the problems that i had with these lifters ,2 people told 2 people those 2 told 2 more and so on i would have save thosands of dollars then those 2 people would save thosands and so on, what forum's are all about! Good and bad
 
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