Hurst Competition Plus any cheaper than $500

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68383GTS

68383GTS

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I need to buy a NEW Hurst Comp + shifter and rods.Does anyone know where I might find one cheaper than $500.00 ?

Also looking for a Centerforce 10.5 cluth kit cheaper than $442.99

Thanks,Jim
 
Jim I would guess your talking A-body length shift rods?
Can't remember if you still have your b-bodys.
 
yes an A body.I sent one into Brewers when I had my GTS and it was sloppy as hell when they got done eith it.The rebuild kit id just shims right?What is the part # or # on the side for a Comp +?
 
Does it have to be new? I ask because I have one in EXCELLENT condition. I am not really interested in selling it, but it came stock in an 83 Dodge D150 with a slant and OD four speed. You might look for a shifter from one of those. It does not say "COMPETITION PLUS" on the side, just "HURST" but it IS a Competition Plus. I have had a slew of them. Just a thought.
 
Brewers does sell the Hurst shifter+rods new for $459.00 I missed that on their website yesterday.

Rusty I perfer new I just don't want a wore out sloppy shifter.But it looks like I could get a rebuild kit for $89.00.Truck shifter I though I had to have an A body shifter??
The Comp + is a slip in handle so I guess that is what I would need.
 
With Hurst there are bolt in for early A, then slip in later, and then they went back to bolt on handles.
All of the Mopar shifters will work, handle aside. I think the odd ball of the group is the 70 B-body which had a longer finger for the reverse rod.
 
Thanks Rocky....They have a Super shifter kit for $419.00,I may have to order that one.
 
ALL of the basic Hurst 4 speed shifters are the same. They will all interchange. Mopar, Ford, GM, whatever. Now, you do need to decide which type handle you want as mentioned earlier. The bolt on or slip on. Mine was a slip on but I fixed that crap and changed it to a bolt on.
 
Jim you really don't need to spend that much on a Hurst.
The truck shifters are cheap and have the slip in handle
you are wanting. If it is wore you just take them apart and
clean all the old grease and sand out of them. The main
pivot pin can be flipped over for a whole new wear surface.
Same for the small carriage bolt turn it 90° from how it came out
and let it wear that side of the bolt for the next 100,000 miles.
Just add new grease and keep the levers and shims in order.
They may feel a little loose until you bolt it in. This is normal and
how they all are. I think of it more as broke in than wore out.
To tighten it up to your liking just tighten the main pivot bolt
till it binds the right amount for you. If it doesn't tighten
up enough for you a few thousands ground off the main pivot sleeve
will get you there. Be careful doing that. To much and it will get so tight
you won't be able to shift it.
I have rebuilt more shifters over the years than I can keep track of and never bought
anything but grease. I have never had one so wore I had to grind the sleeve. I have never
seen one wear thru a shim. The two places they wear is the carriage bolt and pivot sleeve.
Both of those parts can be flipped and be good to go till you wear your arms out grabbing
gears.
Now the slip in handle rubber isolator will wear out. Better off with a bolt on handle.
This has worked for me for 35 years. A hours labor can save you some doe. and
have a shifter that works smoother than a new one. Its already been lapped in like a valve on a seat. Better than new.
 
I have a new one in the box that is discontinued now, if interested PM me

It is complete 400.00
 
I'm in the same boat. Lot of good info in this thread.
 
Some of the GM shifters have larger holes for the linkage. If you use Mopar linkage they will need bushings.
 
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