Hydraulic clutch linkage

[bugsy]

Several of the posts I have read have led me to believe that in converting to a hydraulic clutch linkage, I will not want to use the over center spring on the pedal assembly. Is this correct? What returns the pedal to a full-disengaged position to keep the throwout bearing from riding on the pressure plate?
I am currently working on the (stock) pedal assembly, and would like to have this issue settled so that I can have plating/powdercoating completed. I have purchased a Wilwood master cylinder and a rod end to connect to the pedal and the firewall will be modified to get the angle correct for mounting of the master cylinder. I will be switching to a Tremec 5 speed transmission and using a hydraulic throwout bearing.

 

[daves66valiant]

the slave cylinder should have enough pressure to bring the pedal up itself. You can leave the spring but it is not necessary. I cut mine off. Softer pedal than stock.

 

[Cageman]

I tried a tilton master on the firewall and tried to use the stock pedal, but I was not able to do it, the pedal was rock hard, so I used the master out of the 91 S10 I got the trans from, it was almost a bolt in deal, the metric threads was a pain, but nothing a tig welder couldnt fix so that an AN fitting would screw into the master. works real nice. I used the steel fitting that the sto had to the slave cylinder, I cut it off, and welded a steel male an4 fitting to it. Kind of a dual male fitting, one end is metric, and the other end is an 4. After I had it all done, I saw that another comapny was offering the same deal, it looked to be the smae chevy master. I have had it in there for three years now.