Hydraulic flat tappet cam break in oil (zinc)

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Some AutoZone's have the Comp Cams break in oil additive. Personally I use Brad Penn break in oil along with a bottle of the Comp Cams additive. Any good engine shop should be able to fix you up if you can't find it in a store.
 
Autozonk has the Lucas version, about $16, really have to search the additives and chemicals shelving to find it, (not easy to spot it) but it is there
 
Rislone Oil Additive also has the ZDDP. 1/2 can is good for treating 5 qts of newer, lower ZDDP oil to standard ZDDP levels of the older oils.

Understand that zincs and phosphates have not been eliminated, but lowered to a bit over half of what they used to be. So the newer oils just have to be 'fortitifed' to get the levels back up to the old numbers. Newer, low ZDDP oils are down in the 800 PPM range now. The older levels were in the 1300 to 1500 PPM range.
 
John, I use the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic oil. 2400 PPM of zinc, so no additives necessary. It's about 27 bucks for a five quart jug from Summit. I use it in my truck and I use it for break in as well. I do coat the cam and lifters with a zinc/moly break in lube, though.
 
RustyRatRod said:
John, I use the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic oil. 2400 PPM of zinc, so no additives necessary. It's about 27 bucks for a five quart jug from Summit. I use it in my truck and I use it for break in as well. I do coat the cam and lifters with a zinc/moly break in lube, though.
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This is probably the best solution: use an oil with the right amounts, as there will be no incompatibility between additive and oil. Though there is such a thing as too much ZDDP; I've read of numbers in the mid-upper 2000 PPM as being too much.

And the use of additives has some possible down sides with an additive not working well with a particular oil. I can't say what additives are good with what oils or or not. See here for some VERY generalized info:
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: Can I Mix Zinc Additive with Off-the-Shelf Motor Oil to Save Money? - OnAllCylinders

FWIW, the need for ZDDP in the engine seems to be contact pressure driven. I have run across research that indicates that lower contact pressures (like on a stock type cam) don't require it as much.
 
nm9stheham said:
This is probably the best solution: use an oil with the right amounts, as there will be no incompatibility between additive and oil. Though there is such a thing as too much ZDDP; I've read of numbers in the mid-upper 2000 PPM as being too much.

And the use of additives has some possible down sides with an additive not working well with a particular oil. I can't say what additives are good with what oils or or not. See here for some VERY generalized info:
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: Can I Mix Zinc Additive with Off-the-Shelf Motor Oil to Save Money? - OnAllCylinders

FWIW, the need for ZDDP in the engine seems to be contact pressure driven. I have run across research that indicates that lower contact pressures (like on a stock type cam) don't require it as much.
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Correct. Spring pressure plays a part, as well as how aggressive the cam is designed. You are also correct too much zinc is bad, causes loss of power and deposit build up. 1300 -1500 is more than enough to protect any factory flat tappet and mild street builds. VR-1 10w30 is a great break in oil and a oil to use after break in with FT cams, but the use of the cam break-in lube is still necessary during the break in.
 
I have not seen any break-in oil sold local to me. I used Lucas break-in oil in my poly solid lifter motor and Gibbs Driven BR 30 oil for my 440 solid lifter motor. No additives needed. Both cams are living well.
 
threewood said:
I have not seen any break-in oil sold local to me. I used Lucas break-in oil in my poly solid lifter motor and Gibbs Driven BR 30 oil for my 440 solid lifter motor. No additives needed. Both cams are living well.
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Cool.. a '62 4 door in your avatar!
 
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