Hydraulic or Mechanical 360

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MR4V

MR4V

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Starting on my 360 rebuild, what I'm aiming at is 350rwhp.
This is what I have so far 360 standard bore, forged piston, zero deck, 9.5-1 compresion, balanced, ARP rod & main bolts, heads 1972 J port with 2.02 inlet & 1.60 exhaust, single spring with damper & slight poket porting, inlet Edlebrock Air Gap & 750 vac sec Holley model 4160.
904 box with shift kit & 3.5-1 rear end & 26 inch tyres, max revs 6500.
All in a 73 Dart

Cams I'm looking at are all Comp Cams
1. part number 20-247-4
Lift .495/.495
Dur 282int/ 282exh
Mechanical Grind 282s

2. part number20-233-4
Lift .488/.501
Dur .268int/.274exh
Mechanical Grind CRS XS268S10

3. part number CL20-671-4
Lift .484/.484
Dur 284int/.291 exh
Hydraulic Grind PP284H

4. part number CCA-K20-670-4
lift .474/.474
Dur .280 int/287 exh
Hydraulic Grind PP280H
Roller rocker are from Proform part number is 66869

When using a mechanical cam do I need to change the push rods?
Has anyone used these cam or comb that can give me a guide on how it went?
Do I go with the mechanical or hydraulic to achieve 350rwhp or am I short of the mark?

Cheers
 
350 HP from a 360 is a piece of cake. But as with all builds, the quality of the machine work, assembly and tune-up is at least as important as the combination of parts used.

With adjustable rockers, you will need shorter pushrods with a hydraulic lifter cam (about 7.23") than with a solid cam (about 7.50"). The pushrod cup in the lifters is at a different depth requiring a different length pushrod. Double-check the length during assembly.

This is an exhaust comparison on a dyno, but it will give you an idea of the HP a mild 360 can make as well as HP and TQ differences between different exhaust configurations.
TTI headers are expensive, but high quality, do well in a broad range of applications and fit very well. I've run 11.31 @ 115 mph in a 360 3,540 lb Dart Sport with those same headers.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...pp_0307_mopar_crate_engine_exhaust/index.html

I don't really have any experience with street/strip type cams. A proper hydraulic cam may make just a little less HP than a solid lifter cam and be a little more complicated to adjust. A solid lifter cam may need to be checked more often.

(Oops! Just noticed "REAR wheel HP". But you are off to a good start. You may need a little more cam, gear and converter to get the most out of it. I don't recall how much difference there is between dyno and rear wheel #'s. My particular combo wouldn't be too streetable due to the cam, gears and converter.)

This article is an intake dyno test, but has Edelbrock heads and will give another perspective of dyno HP potential from a different combo.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...8_dyno_testing_small_block_intakes/index.html
 
MR4V said:
Starting on my 360 rebuild, what I'm aiming at is 350rwhp.
This is what I have so far 360 standard bore, forged piston, zero deck, 9.5-1 compresion, balanced, ARP rod & main bolts, heads 1972 J port with 2.02 inlet & 1.60 exhaust, single spring with damper & slight poket porting, inlet Edlebrock Air Gap & 750 vac sec Holley model 4160.
904 box with shift kit & 3.5-1 rear end & 26 inch tyres, max revs 6500.
All in a 73 Dart

Cams I'm looking at are all Comp Cams
1. part number 20-247-4
Lift .495/.495
Dur 282int/ 282exh
Mechanical Grind 282s

2. part number20-233-4
Lift .488/.501
Dur .268int/.274exh
Mechanical Grind CRS XS268S10

3. part number CL20-671-4
Lift .484/.484
Dur 284int/.291 exh
Hydraulic Grind PP284H

4. part number CCA-K20-670-4
lift .474/.474
Dur .280 int/287 exh
Hydraulic Grind PP280H
Roller rocker are from Proform part number is 66869

When using a mechanical cam do I need to change the push rods?
Has anyone used these cam or comb that can give me a guide on how it went?
Do I go with the mechanical or hydraulic to achieve 350rwhp or am I short of the mark?

Cheers
Click to expand...
> Ok, You didn't say "roller block"/yr., so I'll assume its not. They build and dyno lots of Mopar motors, in Engine Masters Mag, I think the editor digs them. I consider it a good source of reliable info. They proved a solid cam, made 20 more hp., with matched real world spec's. Not trying to change your build,but A500 trans,(overdrive/904), are pretty cheap now. Same 2.76/ 1st. gear and 31% od. I.E. you could run 31% more rear gear= 31% faster accelleration, through-out the range, and still have "lower" top gear rpm.,(lock-up converter).They are "fatter" at the back, which may require, heat and hammer the tunnel. Good Luck, ateam.:cheers:
 
350 RWHP is approx. a min. of 400 - 425 HP. Considering your rear gear ratio, you may have an issue with the curent combo of tire size and what ever stall converter you have. You didn't say, I can ony assume stock. And that's a problem, the word assume.

To make that much power, knowing how much power the 904 eats up is a key item. This I do not know myself. (I actuallly forget these things)

I like the first cam myself, but wonder how well the heads perform. They may need to be addressed a bit before there able to release that amount of power.
(Read, bowl porting, valve back cutting, etc...)

But this cam, your first, can do it; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-20-233-4/
 
rumblefish360 said:
350 RWHP is approx. a min. of 400 - 425 HP. Considering your rear gear ratio, you may have an issue with the curent combo of tire size and what ever stall converter you have. You didn't say, I can ony assume stock. And that's a problem, the word assume.

To make that much power, knowing how much power the 904 eats up is a key item. This I do not know myself. (I actuallly forget these things)

I like the first cam myself, but wonder how well the heads perform. They may need to be addressed a bit before there able to release that amount of power.
(Read, bowl porting, valve back cutting, etc...)

But this cam, your first, can do it; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-20-233-4/
Click to expand...

Stall will either be 2800 or 3000. Heads have slight porting around the valve steams only.
I'm trying to get a handle how close I will be to 350rwhp & if I need to spend more on head porting.
I appreicate your feed back, you have always got the good information.
 
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