hydraulic roller lifters issues

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I had Brian at IMM spec out my Hyd roller. (360 with lifter bores cut at the top.)
the first spec instructions on the cam card is :ROUGH CAM THEN REMOVE .040 FROM BASE.

No complaints works great!!!
and mine is a .562 intake .550 exhaust lift.
 
Are you having this issue with the Hughes lifters, or are you considering getting them to fix the problem? I think MRL also has lifters with the oil ring lowered just for the uneven lifter bore heights in in small blocks. I would get the lifters before having the cam reground. At least that way, you can sell the other lifters and recoup part of your money.

I got the Hughes lifters to fix he problem and all bores are good except one. The oil ring on the lifter peeks out less than 030 and after measuring the cam the base circle is 060 bigger than the barrel so I should be able to take 040 off the base circle. That will give me a margin of error of at least 010 and leave the base circle 010 bigger than the barrel. Rather than do just the one lobe I thought I will do them all, That way push rods will all be the same. Does that make sense?
 
I got the Hughes lifters to fix he problem and all bores are good except one. The oil ring on the lifter peeks out less than 030 and after measuring the cam the base circle is 060 bigger than the barrel so I should be able to take 040 off the base circle. That will give me a margin of error of at least 010 and leave the base circle 010 bigger than the barrel. Rather than do just the one lobe I thought I will do them all, That way push rods will all be the same. Does that make sense?

Have you priced the re grind compared to a new one with the base circle lowered?
 
Yes, a new cam with a different base circle is $450.00 plus freight and to have it re ground will cost $225 plus the cost to have it shipped which will be about $60.00. So total will be around $300 max (Canadian $)
 
I got the Hughes lifters to fix he problem and all bores are good except one. The oil ring on the lifter peeks out less than 030 and after measuring the cam the base circle is 060 bigger than the barrel so I should be able to take 040 off the base circle. That will give me a margin of error of at least 010 and leave the base circle 010 bigger than the barrel. Rather than do just the one lobe I thought I will do them all, That way push rods will all be the same. Does that make sense?

Yep. It makes good sense......if you are sure of the .030 measurement.

Your price for lowering the base circle seems high, but it is your best move right now. Bite the bullet, man. Been there done that.

Second time around for me was sooo much easier! Lunati ground my new cam WITH lower base and shipped for 375 bucks. No additional charge to grind it on a lower circle.

Good for future reference.
 
I want to thank all who chimed in on this thread. Cams are very confusing and I did learn lot. I will let you all know how the build turned out. Thanks FABO
 
I just got the cam back from the machine shop. Had the cam re-ground, 0.035 taken off the base circle. Tried it in the engine with the roller lifters and no more problem with the oil grove peeking out of the bore. I had it done at Interior Cam in Salmon Arm BC, the cam looks really good. I was surprised to find out it was bent 0.005 and the lobes were not all the same, he said there was a difference of 0.002 - 0.004 between them This is brand new Comp Cam. He said it is pretty common for a new cam to NOT be perfect but they are all the same now and cam has also been straightened.
Just as an FYI, I have a pair of roller liters from Hughes that I used just to do the fit up and I will not be using so if anyone is thinking of going to a roller cam and wants to try a roller lifter before buying, drop me a line. They are the same for a big or small block
My next step is to degree the cam. It looks like things are finally coming together (fingers crossed)
Will I need to change out the gear on he oil pump shaft because I went from a hyd flat tappet to a hyd roller cam?
 
Pretty sure you do, but I'd check with Comp. I believe most rollers require a bronze gear. I had to get a new shaft for the Comp solid roller I ran last year.

I think I read that SOME hydraulic rollers could use the old style gear, like I said.....check with Comp.
 
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