Hey all, I’m converting my 72 duster to a 4 speed from a 727. It’s a small block car and it’s going to have long tube headers (tti) I’m a while away from installing all of it but I’m trying to stock pile parts so hopefully when the time comes I’m not scrambling around to get parts. My question is I was looking at the hydraulic throw out bearing set up from American power train instead of the z bar and the mechanical linkage with the headers and all being in the way. Is this a better setup to go with then trying to source all the mechanical linkage parts? Any advise is appreciated. Thanks!
Hydraulic throwout bearing questions
- Thread starter bbizelli
- Start date
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You can get either from Brewers. If cost and clearance is not a factor I would go hydraulic.
LJ67barracuda340
Well-Known Member
I used hydraulic setup from Keisler now SilverSport. Id use it again everytime. Like you I went from auto to manual and didnt have the linkage parts but I like the hyd setup a lot. There is a bit of clearance issue with the master but not too much of a problem.
j par
Well-hung Member
You'll probably be happy with the hydraulic throwout bearing that's in your budget. Which by the time you buy linkage and all that might be a partial wash... There's a lot of those linkage pieces that look kind of the same but they're not. Also when you buy those expensive TTI headers I think and don't quote me on this but you need to somehow flip the linkage over or something like that or re-weld it I'm not sure. It comes with instructions to do it but it's still I believe needs to be done. Myself I have Factory linkage and cheap 7 headers and have no issues whatsoever... Possibly with the ttis you gain an inch or so of ground clearance if it's needed...
pishta
I know I'm right....
buddy had a Tilton hydro T/O in a 65 A, 340/A833 big red lakewood bell. It was always soft. Could not bleed it enough. the slave cylinder needs to braced off the inner fender as the firewall flexed! But it was about the only option at the time. It worked, could probably have worked out the gremlins.
Biomedtechguy
Well-Known Member
100% better than the manual setup, but make sure to check for flex in the firewall, even better, do whatever you need to prevent it ahead of time.
I got the American Powertrain kit, but if you check with Brewer's, tell them what you have, mention concern about firewall flex, and I'm sure they'll get you what you need.
I have a HitMaster clutch/launch control setup (requires a hydraulic throwout bearing) and a McLeod RXT dual disc clutch system.
EDIT: FWIW I had a Borg and Beck 3 finger PP with about 3k clamping pressure, switched to a diaphragm style PP with about the same clamping force, and they didn't slip when fully engaged but were pretty brutal on my old knee. I got the dual disc out of necessity, but I am THRILLED that what I've read so many dual disc clutch owners say is true: outstanding performance but much lower force required to disengage and great performance. Add to that the hydraulic throwout bearing setup and I have the best case scenario: great clutch performance and smooth, easy operation.
I got the American Powertrain kit, but if you check with Brewer's, tell them what you have, mention concern about firewall flex, and I'm sure they'll get you what you need.
I have a HitMaster clutch/launch control setup (requires a hydraulic throwout bearing) and a McLeod RXT dual disc clutch system.
EDIT: FWIW I had a Borg and Beck 3 finger PP with about 3k clamping pressure, switched to a diaphragm style PP with about the same clamping force, and they didn't slip when fully engaged but were pretty brutal on my old knee. I got the dual disc out of necessity, but I am THRILLED that what I've read so many dual disc clutch owners say is true: outstanding performance but much lower force required to disengage and great performance. Add to that the hydraulic throwout bearing setup and I have the best case scenario: great clutch performance and smooth, easy operation.
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