I’m Doing it!

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As far as the master cyl is concerned... fit a small one back under the dash over centre reversre pyshrod sounds crazy but we have done a few...for example toyota vans use a slim cyl...remote the reservoir in the bay etc just takes some fab work.
Not sure how u goin to run the tf with webers no kickdown etc unless all man vave body etc..hate to put a damper on yoyr project...and i understand the novelty value but from a guy who works on these things daily...they are not a great thing.
The only thing required to make a TF work is an appropriate adapter, and an accurate measurement of the radius on the OE throttle pin for the kickdown. Any Rodder worth
His salt can come up with/fabricate the needed linkage or cable arrangement. Exactly how much longer than a slanty is this inline? From the photos, it appears maybe 3",
4" tops? That's not a deal breaker if You don't mind getting creative latching the hood.
 
Wouldn't it have been a ton easier to just go with a 4.0 Jeep? essentially the same exact configuration
JohnFM3 has been working on one in a '68 Cuda I believe it is, no tons, pounds, or ounces easier at all. Worse maybe, it is taller, and no 4.0L Jeeps, and I'm not even
sure the old 258ci ones, had an appropriate car pan for an A-body arrangement, the Oz one at least did............................
 
oh and just for the record the americans designed the d series engine (hemi 6) tested it ,hated it , went back to the slant(rg series) the aussies went on with it, but its not a nice motor.
What are it's main flaws? Do the head gaskets blow? Valve train problems? Bottom ends give out?
 
Chrysler Australia with all its engineering couldn't get the hemi 6/tf conversion right the only reason there was a s block available was borg warner went on strike and Chrysler had no trans, so the rejigged the casting to make some blocks tf pattern, ,,its a proven fact for 40 years that its not a match and wont work...many have tried ..none successful..inc Chrysler Australia.
 
bad harmonic problems, valve train issues, no oil pumps available!!! only kits if you find a decent pump body after 40 years(alloy) camshaft end float, although fixed on later blocks,..rear main oil leaks, no seal available that is any good, the list goes on and on,,,and after spending heaps of your money , a six pack is really only around 300 hp...whats the point..anything more and the next round of probs start...
 
bad harmonic problems, valve train issues, no oil pumps available!!! only kits if you find a decent pump body after 40 years(alloy) camshaft end float, although fixed on later blocks,..rear main oil leaks, no seal available that is any good, the list goes on and on,,,and after spending heaps of your money , a six pack is really only around 300 hp...whats the point..anything more and the next round of probs start...
That's a hell of a list! I think i will just play with my 5.7 hemi after I get my current big block project done.
 
bad harmonic problems, valve train issues, no oil pumps available!!! only kits if you find a decent pump body after 40 years(alloy) camshaft end float, although fixed on later blocks,..rear main oil leaks, no seal available that is any good, the list goes on and on,,,and after spending heaps of your money , a six pack is really only around 300 hp...whats the point..anything more and the next round of probs start...

There are no oil pumps available for my 56 model 331 Hemi. Also, I have to use an adapter to run a Mopar 4 speed transmission.

My point is, if we all went by some one else's experiences and just "gave up" because they did, hot rodding wouldn't exist.

I'm not skeered of trying to tackle something the factory couldn't get right. Those guys put their pants on same as me. One leg at a time.
 
What I want to know is how are you gonna fit the oilpan and the steering in the same real estate, and if you manage that, how high are you gonna have to jack the ride height to keep the pan from scraping on every pebble on the road.
 
transmission
its not about that..at what cost do you stop...? external oil pump , rack and pinion steering, custom exhausts, custom adaptors for the tf, which by the way everyone has tried, the list goes on...its about cost vs creativity..and the hemi 6 after all that is still a rattling piece of **** engine.
 
its not about that..at what cost do you stop...? external oil pump , rack and pinion steering, custom exhausts, custom adaptors for the tf, which by the way everyone has tried, the list goes on...its about cost vs creativity..and the hemi 6 after all that is still a rattling piece of **** engine.

I think the OP is the only one who can make that decision.
 
and the hemi 6 oil pump is driven directly off the camshaft via a gear..again everyone in oz has tried to fix that too...with no success, this engine , although not bad in std form for a passenger car, is a moneypit with so many inherent probs, its a definite no go in my book.its strictly not cost effective even in Australia to rebuild, its cheaper ....and easier to build sb or bb for that matter.
 
I think the OP is the only one who can make that decision.
just trying to give some advice and save him some brain damage he don't need, yes ultimately that's his decision, but I like to think that when I read this forum, I get knowledge from other guys experience as well.
I read the article on valve train geometry in depth from a fellow forum member on here and I learnt some thing new...that I didn't know,,,
 
What I want to know is how are you gonna fit the oilpan and the steering in the same real estate, and if you manage that, how high are you gonna have to jack the ride height to keep the pan from scraping on every pebble on the road.
you could use the aussie k frame, and mount the steering box and idler to that as per the us version, the draglink is the problem as suggested, another little known fact here is the dart lower ball joints are a different length to the aussie ones as the steering is in a different position, so as I keep saying this is just a headf***k to do
 
just trying to give some advice and save him some brain damage he don't need, yes ultimately that's his decision, but I like to think that when I read this forum, I get knowledge from other guys experience as well.
I read the article on valve train geometry in depth from a fellow forum member on here and I learnt some thing new...that I didn't know,,,

I understand completely. People have done the seemingly impossible before. That's what hot rodding is all about.
 
If I were planning on banging some skeezer and several buddies told me that she would run me ragged, spend all my money, NOT put out and leave me broke with blue balls.....I'd like to think that I would move on to some other chick.
 
That looks like the one, I can check the old DC/MP catalogs to see how that is listed, but being that it singles out "'68" the only Year the Hemi SS cars were built I'd say so.
Not arguing here, but how can that be a hemi , w/ the intake and exhaust on the same side ? Ain`t no hemi to me, needs hemispherical combustion chambers! I would like to see pics of the head , upside down . ??????????
 
John is the exact reason I started this thread. To hear someone with real life experience give an opinion. I appreciate it and might have to seriously think about the pros and cons of the swap. The cons are stacking.
 
I think it would be fun to do weird engine swaps but then I remember that I care more for what I want rather than impressing people that never had to invest any time or skin in the effort!
 
Oh well, in that case, just stuff a 360HO under there and go have some serious chits and giggles.

OK wait, you said you wanted something "fun and different"?
Make it a Medium-compression 360 with a 318 top end and a big 2bbl and a 360 type cam in the 252* range.
You can call it your stroked and poked teener.

Static compression ratio of 9.4:1.
ICA of 54*
Effective stroke is 3.02 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.09:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 162.22 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 150.............................................150
V/P Index Calculation


Now go put some 275s on there,an LSD,and 3.91s. You won't need 'em, but they'll sure be a lotta fun boiling the hides.
Don't forget to paint it turquoise blue.
And in case you don't know what a VP of 150 feels like?, think 440Magnum..
If you also install a 2800TC,
The first time you nail it, you will nearly crp yr pnts. Make sure you got her pointed straight, with plenty of shut-down area, and no distractions,lol
Now that would be"fun and different".
 
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Not arguing here, but how can that be a hemi , w/ the intake and exhaust on the same side ? Ain`t no hemi to me, needs hemispherical combustion chambers! I would like to see pics of the head , upside down . ??????????
OK, Yes, the Aussie inline 6 is not a true Hemi by any stretch. It got coined that because just like the Mitsu 2.6L in the minivans & K variants, Mopar owned the HEMI
name, more or less calling whatever they want to sell product. No less accurate than calling a 3G Hemi a Hemi, neither are they so....................
Anyway, that is irrelevant to the post You quoted, as the offset plate was used for the Hurst converted Super Stock '68 A-bodies. But it may certainly come in handy
here.
 
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