Dan the man
Well-Known Member
It's happened, but I'm sure that it's not all the timeSo the engines have to be totally pulled apart after each race because we can’t trust anyone anymore.
It's happened, but I'm sure that it's not all the timeSo the engines have to be totally pulled apart after each race because we can’t trust anyone anymore.
The cam has to be within 1% of the factory lift and 2% of the duration. Cylinder heads can't be ported, no bowl work, no 3 angle valve job or back cutting of the valve's. Stock exhaust manifolds. Pistons can have a small dome as a compression ratio of 1.5 points over advertised is allowed. No aftermarket rods, crankshaft. Electronic ignition is allowed, curve kit is allowed, high output coil is allowed but it has to be the same size and shape and color as the factory coil also it has to be mounted in the factory location. No aftermarket ignition boxs. No electric fuel pumps or pressure regulators allowed. Any gear ratio is allowed. Blueprinting is allowed and balancing too. All that's left is dyno tuning and you can see that these guys are running "stock " engines.Gotta list of the rules somewhere?
Also, if you just do that inexpensive “Stock” rebuild, you’re never going to be competitive. Ever ever. Dream on with that! LMAO!!!
I forgot to mention earlier that you have to run stock size valves and factory spring's. The only extra expense I can see is the blueprinting as most people have their engines balanced and the dyno tuning if you want that done.Gotta list of the rules somewhere?
Also, if you just do that inexpensive “Stock” rebuild, you’re never going to be competitive. Ever ever. Dream on with that! LMAO!!!
It's a awesome drag racing class that requires good engine and tuning skills.pure stock
blue printed ok
70 over ok
13.01@104 mph 4.30s 727 thats what they run done right
I know a couple of people that run a stock engine class of racing. One of the guys dropped some coin on one of these so he could make sure his ignition system was working the exact way he wanted it to on ALL of the cylinders.If you're talking about a pure stock drag racing engine, they really don't cost much more than a stock rebuild. I've checked them out and you can't run a 3 angle valve job from what I understand but I could be wrong here
That's a distributor machine for the proper set up of the distributor, correct? I ask cause I've never seen one before.I know a couple of people that run a stock engine class of racing. One of the guys dropped some coin on one of these so he could make sure his ignition system was working the exact way he wanted it to on ALL of the cylinders.
Going through piles of "stock rockers" looking for the best ratios, the list goes on.It's a awesome drag racing class that requires good engine and tuning skills.
Sure is, there is more to setting up the ignition, than just the curve.That's a distributor machine for the proper set up of the distributor, correct? I ask cause I've never seen one before.
Sure is, there is more to setting up the ignition, than just the curve.
I own one of these.
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I got it for nothing off another engine builder I know. It was missing a few things, like the step down transformer, speed controller, degree ring and indicator disc. I just remade what I needed to make it functional again. I was a fun project.Where did you get that and what was the cost?
MV Agusta F4Z Zagato
Look at that bike! And penned by none other than Zagato. WOW.
That's awesomeSure is, there is more to setting up the ignition, than just the curve.
I own one of these.
Distributor Tester | Tools
www.diseno-art.com
I'm sure it does. Years ago I knew of a guy who went through 3 sets of pushrods to get one set the same lengthGoing through piles of "stock rockers" looking for the best ratios, the list goes on.
Are those distributor machines still available?
I'd like to learn how to use oneAre those distributor machines still available?
I'd like to learn how to use one
I think that I'm going to research on how to tune with oneUsing the machine is easy. Learning how to tune with it is what takes time to learn.
I've got a feeling they may be out of business.Are those distributor machines still available?
this makes me dread finding out the price of Methanol when I get my 13.5:1 360 done.........It’s close to 25 a gallon. We were using x16 and it was I think around 15 or 16 but that was 3 years ago. We picked up almost 20hp going to the q
I believe methanol is quite a bit cheaper. I run c12 in my truck and it is 20 a gallonthis makes me dread finding out the price of Methanol when I get my 13.5:1 360 done.........
well some pain is relieved lolI believe methanol is quite a bit cheaper. I run c12 in my truck and it is 20 a gallon
50 heads on the flow bench for the best ports and smallest chambers, 200 rods for the 8 lightest, maybe flow testing a dozen intakes.Going through piles of "stock rockers" looking for the best ratios, the list goes on.
Ebay?Are those distributor machines still available?
Can you run it on E85?this makes me dread finding out the price of Methanol when I get my 13.5:1 360 done.........
I'm sure I could, I haven't dabbled in Methanol or E85 use in racing yet. I know nothing about what it takes to run Methanol but I'm in the literal heart of E85 country in Iowa. It's like $2 a gallon here wonder if the E85 will sub in for the Methanol straight up or different tune?50 heads on the flow bench for the best ports and smallest chambers, 200 rods for the 8 lightest, maybe flow testing a dozen intakes.
Ebay?
Can you run it on E85?
I'm not sure, but I am sure it will be much easier-it's less corrosive than methanol, and you can even get dedicated E85 carbs now. IIRC, it's ~110 octane.I'm sure I could, I haven't dabbled in Methanol or E85 use in racing yet. I know nothing about what it takes to run Methanol but I'm in the literal heart of E85 country in Iowa. It's like $2 a gallon here wonder if the E85 will sub in for the Methanol straight up or different tune?