I hate to even ask........

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Oh well , you wanted to put in a bigger cam anyway

OK to venture off the original topic, this car is intended for street use and touch of dragstrip duty on occasion. Going back together, lets have this discussion.

Current bumpstick is the stock MP crate piece, 288/292 Duration .501/.513 Lift - Hyd Roller. I like it, but I am sure I can do better with an aftermarket piece.

Most I have seen so far have a much higher int/ext lift(, while duration numbers are similar. All have manufacturers recommended mods as 3.55-4.10 gear, aftermarket intake, headers and a stall of 2500. I have the 4 speed set up.

I am liking this offering from Comp: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=650&sb=2

The gear, I am going to change that to no more than 3.91 later this month. I really like the street-ability of the 3.23's, not beyond keeping them if I had to. 3.55's?

The engine will be updated with roller rockers (Hughes if they ever get the shafts back in stock) and a set of new pushrods. I didn't see a 1.7 offering from them so I guess it will be 1.6.....and yeah, the missing dog bone will be replaced:)

Lifters (ordered a set of Rhodes 1068X, the V-Max level. But looking at that, I may get a non-adjustable lifter). Any other suggestions?

The M1 single plane being replaced with an Eddie Air Gap dual plane.
Carb is currently a Summit AFB knock off of 750cfm value, #SUM-M08750VS (impressed with this carb so far, it was on the engine when I bought it).

Did I miss anything?
 
How can I edit out those videos I included in earlier posts? The edit button is gone and I am sure we are all tired of the auto play of them.
 
Did I miss anything?

You are planning to completely tear it down, clean everything and rebuild, correct?

Also, I would watch the lift, especially if you run the 1.6 or 1.7. The heads may/probably will need some attention so you don't get coil bind (machining of the seats etc), also you will need to check P to V clearances.
 
Yes, I want to stay close to the original specs, the reasoning to get a camshaft with similar lift as the original, but a man could spend years looking through the internet at camshaft specs...:banghead:

The car ran good before, but I think the M1 single plane was a cause of it being a dog off the line, it didn't really turn on till about 2800rpm. I know the gear at 3.23 is a little weak to, but it sure was nice from a 30mph stomp:burnout:

Hell, I would put the same MP cam back in there if I could find it. May be old production. P4120233-this PN has the same specs, but listed as a hyd flat tappet....what gives?

You are planning to completely tear it down, clean everything and rebuild, correct?

Also, I would watch the lift, especially if you run the 1.6 or 1.7. The heads may/probably will need some attention so you don't get coil bind (machining of the seats etc), also you will need to check P to V clearances.
 
You shouldn't omit Howards Cams from your choices. They have some really nice grinds.
 
Yeah, a good dual plane intake would be a better choice for street driving, and an occasional romp at the track. I run 3.55's and I like them. It all depends on your intent, if it's mostly street 3.55's with a suregrip and a good converter built to your car would be a fun little package.

As far as cam choices I'm sure there will be plenty of recommendations, I'm still fuzzy in that area myself. I know just enough to get myself in trouble, lol. But like I said, the thing to keep in mind is the retainer to valve guide clearance/coil bind and the piston to valve clearance. The more aggressive you go, the more machining (expense) will be needed. I'm not sure on the Magnums, but I know the LA it's safe to around .500 lift before you need to start worrying in most cases.

Then you have the whole power brake issue, a cam that won't provide enough vacuum will decrease the boosters ability to assist, there are ways around that, either go manual or add a boost assist.
 
Right now the engine works just fine, (no vacuum issues, brake booster works great)the only complaint I had was the failure to really launch good and I feel it is related to the single plane M1.

If I keep really close to the original cam specs (.501/.513) I think I should be OK with head issues. I did find an OEM MP cam like mine on Ebay. NIB too. I may just go back that way if I don't see anything else. I got time to listen to suggestions, gonna take a day to clean this mess out.
So far I have not seen any metal shavings and the oil filter was clean. Oil pan was void of any foreign material as well.
This Comp Cam is looking right: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=650&sb=2

Yes sir, I like that 3.55 idea. Ad a sure grip to my 489 case and I think it would be good.
I have a standard 4 speed transmission.

Yeah, a good dual plane intake would be a better choice for street driving, and an occasional romp at the track. I run 3.55's and I like them. It all depends on your intent, if it's mostly street 3.55's with a suregrip and a good converter built to your car would be a fun little package.

As far as cam choices I'm sure there will be plenty of recommendations, I'm still fuzzy in that area myself. I know just enough to get myself in trouble, lol. But like I said, the thing to keep in mind is the retainer to valve guide clearance/coil bind and the piston to valve clearance. The more aggressive you go, the more machining (expense) will be needed. I'm not sure on the Magnums, but I know the LA it's safe to around .500 lift before you need to start worrying in most cases.

Then you have the whole power brake issue, a cam that won't provide enough vacuum will decrease the boosters ability to assist, there are ways around that, either go manual or add a boost assist.
 
You can get a Howards custom grind ordered through Competition Products shipped to your door for $320.
You call Howards and get a recommendation on a grind and then order it through Competition Products who is their sister company. It took about 10 business days to receive mine.
 
You can get a Howards custom grind ordered through Competition Products shipped to your door for $320.
You call Howards and get a recommendation on a grind and then order it through Competition Products who is their sister company. It took about 10 business days to receive mine.

Called them and a couple others, most are 4 weeks backlog. I am sure we can locate a off the shelf cam that will work, I can always get the stock cam that was in the engine.
Any lifter recommendations. I ordered a set of Rhoads, but they came today and are the adjustable lifter XL. I don't need that with this engine, Maybe the Super Lube Rhoads will be a better choice. I see Hughes carries those as well.
 
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