I have an eternally full tank!!!

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GTS76

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(this post is in reference to my 1976 dart swinger )


While i should be happy that no matter how long i drive my dart, the tank always reads full, i am beginning to get really really annoyed with how it is negatively impacting my faith in all gauges.

first i blew out my dash cluster. then i had all new gauges installed. all worked but fuel read E even after brimming.

i got a different Fuel gauge this one "ohm 73/10" as instructed but now it reads F even after houyrs of driving.

the mechanic is im sure happy to keep having me drop it in and to charge me for hours that result in nothing but confusion and malfunction.

all the other mechanics in brooklyn NY that i have contacted REFUSE to work on electrics in my car, even a company called "brooklyn classics" i kid you not said they wont work on a car "that old"

i am in desperate need of awareness on the subject and advice on how to proceed. i am otherwise guessing my fuel levels and it really sucks.

i am unable to get the cluster out completely for some reason and i am unable therefore to fit a new gauge in myself, nor do i know exactly how to calibrate.

if anyone could tell me how to get dart cluster out and what gauge to buy and how to calibrate i will (attempt to ) do this myself!!

to hell with all the mechanics in the whole damn city!!


gts
 
GTS76 said:
(this post is in reference to my 1976 dart swinger )


While i should be happy that no matter how long i drive my dart, the tank always reads full, i am beginning to get really really annoyed with how it is negatively impacting my faith in all gauges.

first i blew out my dash cluster. then i had all new gauges installed. all worked but fuel read E even after brimming.

i got a different Fuel gauge this one "ohm 73/10" as instructed but now it reads F even after houyrs of driving.

the mechanic is im sure happy to keep having me drop it in and to charge me for hours that result in nothing but confusion and malfunction.

all the other mechanics in brooklyn NY that i have contacted REFUSE to work on electrics in my car, even a company called "brooklyn classics" i kid you not said they wont work on a car "that old"

i am in desperate need of awareness on the subject and advice on how to proceed. i am otherwise guessing my fuel levels and it really sucks.

i am unable to get the cluster out completely for some reason and i am unable therefore to fit a new gauge in myself, nor do i know exactly how to calibrate.

if anyone could tell me how to get dart cluster out and what gauge to buy and how to calibrate i will (attempt to ) do this myself!!

to hell with all the mechanics in the whole damn city!!


gts
Click to expand...



To remove the cluster, there are three nuts and washers on the steering wheel bracket under the dash. It helps to loosen them to help pull the steering wheel out of the way, the steering column may drop down, if not, then loosen the 3 bolts for the steering column on the floor under the carpet where it goes into the engine compartment.


As far as the gauge goes. Have you tried contacting Auto Meter and asking for their recommendation for a gauge to match the ohms of the sending unit so the gauge will read correctly?


http://www.autometer.com/


http://www.autometer.com/contacts
 
Before you pull anything apart unplug the wire from the sending unit and see if the gauge drops to zero.
If it does the problem is the sender and not the gauges.
This could be as simple as a shorted resistor wire on the sender.

And FYI, to get the cluster out you have to release the speedometer cable from the back of it.

20 minutes and we would have that problem diagnosed, but all you guys are to damn far away. :D
 
What is an externally fuel tank?
 
First, The idea to unplug the wire from the Sending unit is a good one. If the sending unit (which does not actually send anything; that is just what we call them) has failed and is allowing current to flow through to a ground, that would explain your full tank reading. That is how the sending unit works; the more current the resistor allows to flow through to the tank's ground, the more fuel the gauge will show. Before you buy a new gauge, I would SERIOUSLY consider mailing the old one to D&M Restorations. They have done work for me before, and their work and knowledge are second to none.
http://dandmrestoration.com/services/
 
Rather than crawl under to get to the sending wire, remove the driver's left-foot kick panel and unplug the ~10-pin connector. That is all wires to the rear, including the sender. Most likely a shorted sending wire, or a shorted sender, is your problem. From the connector, you can test all. Measure the sender resistance, or install simulator resistors to go the other way to your gage. You will need a wiring diagram (search here) and some alligator clips, and a free HF multimeter.

I 2nd your exaperation w/ "professional" mechanics, and why most here do their own repairs. Your issue is very easy to diagnose, and even easier in your old model. I don't think the fuel gages in newer cars work any different, like have become digital, but could be wrong. They sure are harder to get to. I will probably be pulling the fuel pump assembly in my 1996 Plymouth this weekend (suspect bad fuel pump), so I'll look at its sender.
 
BillGrissom said:
... I will probably be pulling the fuel pump assembly in my 1996 Plymouth this weekend (suspect bad fuel pump), so I'll look at its sender.
Click to expand...
My 1996 sender is still a variable resistance, but more like 100 ohm full to 1000 ohm empty (or vice-versa?), whereas in our old Mopars it is about 10 ohm full to 70 ohm empty. They likely measure the resistance with an amplifier circuit instead of applying 5 VDC with the sender current driving the cluster needle directly. That is safer. I always worry about the sender lighting off the gas tank, but as long as there is no air inside it can't ignite. But, perhaps danger after the tank has been sitting empty, especially with the cap off.
 
One side of your gas gauge connects to a regulated 5volt source. The other side connects all the way back to your tanks sending unit which is simply a variable resistor to ground. I suspect your problem is at or near the gauge. It should be fairly easy to diagnose.
 
hey!

thanks to everyone who chimed in to point me in the right direction.

i got the fuel gauge to work. it wasnt properly grounded! now its fine, but it reads a bit of a wobble compared to the original gauge.

as for the steering column, it seems odd that there is a bolt on the right to take the column out but the only way to get to it means taking apart the heating vent. no wrench or ratchet could get to it otherwise. SO ANNOYING!

i have a few other general questions about making my dart as cool as possible as cheaply as possible, but i will post those in their appropriate forums. thanks everyone!!

g.t.s
 
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