I need some help...

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Ethan Morris

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As I was driving my 73 Duster around last night, I pulled into a gas station to let it cool off because it had stalled just a few minutes ago. When I started to drive off, it wanted to stall when I accelerated. It idles rough and I tried to just the carb but that didn't help. Any ideas?
 
I think what rusty is saying...

We need a lot more info
Car
Year
Engine
Modifications
Has it ever done this before
What have you changed / done to the car lately
 
Dana67Dart said:
I think what rusty is saying...

We need a lot more info
Car
Year
Engine
Modifications
Has it ever done this before
What have you changed / done to the car lately
Click to expand...
1973 Plymouth Duster, 225 Slant Six, no modifications, remanufactured carb. It has ran similar to this and replacing the battery fixed it. I don't think this is the battery though.
 
Have you checked...
  1. Advance
  2. Vacume leaks
  3. Idle speed
  4. If automatic in drive
  5. If automatic in nutural / park
  6. Last time plugs wires dist cap and rotor changed
You said it got hot, could be vapor lock????
 
Whose reman carburetor? One thing you can try is with it running and the air cleaner removed, slowly close the choke by hand and see if the engine will continue to idle with the choke almost or even closed. If it does, that's a good indicator of a vacuum leak, which will cause one to run rough. Also make sure the carburetor mounting screws are tight and the smaller screws that hold the carburetor together are also tight. They are notorious for loosening up, especially with new gaskets and often need to be retightened after a few heat cycles.
 
Last edited:
RustyRatRod said:
Whose reman carburetor? One thing you can try is with it running and the air cleaner removed, slowly close the choke by hand and see if the engine will continue to idle with the choke almost or even closed. If it does, that's a good indicator of a vacuum leak, which will cause one to run rough. Also make sure the carburetor mounting screws are tight and the smaller screws the hole the carburetor together are also tight. They are notorious for loosening up, especially with new gaskets and often need to be retightened after a few heat cycles.
Click to expand...
Dana67Dart said:
Have you checked...
  1. Advance
  2. Vacume leaks
  3. Idle speed
  4. If automatic in drive
  5. If automatic in nutural / park
  6. Last time plugs wires dist cap and rotor changed
You said it got hot, could be vapor lock????
Click to expand...
I will try all these things first thing in the morning, thank you. It is a UREMCO reman carb.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Have you checked...
  1. Advance
  2. Vacume leaks
  3. Idle speed
  4. If automatic in drive
  5. If automatic in nutural / park
  6. Last time plugs wires dist cap and rotor changed
You said it got hot, could be vapor lock????
Click to expand...
...........................
7. Fuel filter
8. Plugs
9. Ballast Resister
 
Also check the pick up in the distributor they seem to fail when hot and ok when they cool down.
 
I've had two that did that to me, and it was crap in the fuel tank blocking the pickup. Leave 'em sit, and it would float off and they'd run again, for a bit.

Next time it stalls, pop the air cleaner, look down the carb throat and see if gas squirts in when you work the accelerator.
 
Yup had the "temporarily plugged sock in the tank" on my mom's old 5th Ave
 
Ethan Morris said:
As I was driving my 73 Duster around last night, I pulled into a gas station to let it cool off because it had stalled just a few minutes ago. When I started to drive off, it wanted to stall when I accelerated. It idles rough and I tried to just the carb but that didn't help. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
 
Don't forget to make sure your heat riser is moving freely (if it's still there). If it sticks in a closed position it will cause all the issues you're seeing. Been in that situation before!!!
 
TF360 said:
Do a Tune Up while your at it- Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor.
Click to expand...
and don't buy the cheapest parts available to fill the hole.... last I checked (for example) the better distributor cap (brass inserts) was only like $2 more than the cheap one (aluminum inserts) and remember Mopars don't like Delco plugs unless you want a whine in the radio.. I have never tried Delcos in a Mopar, that I didn't have to change out shortly after for this reason.
 
volaredon said:
and don't buy the cheapest parts available to fill the hole.... last I checked (for example) the better distributor cap (brass inserts) was only like $2 more than the cheap one (aluminum inserts) and remember Mopars don't like Delco plugs unless you want a whine in the radio.. I have never tried Delcos in a Mopar, that I didn't have to change out shortly after for this reason.
Click to expand...

Autolites in a Neon will require you to Heli-coil the threads. Champions, man.
 
volaredon said:
and don't buy the cheapest parts available to fill the hole.... last I checked (for example) the better distributor cap (brass inserts) was only like $2 more than the cheap one (aluminum inserts) and remember Mopars don't like Delco plugs unless you want a whine in the radio.. I have never tried Delcos in a Mopar, that I didn't have to change out shortly after for this reason.
Click to expand...
Ya know, I subscribed to that for decades, but I found that conditions that created lots of dampness in the dizzy did worse long-term with brass terminals. The ionized residue in the cap is more conductive, that green haze/film/tracking can cause more f'ing grief when damp. Just sayin',..
You can manically keep wiping the cap out, find ways to keep it dry in places like here in Seattle east(SW PA), or keep changing it before it's time. I'm certainly not the most senior member, but grew up & started in the automotive repair field when "plugs cap rotor points & condensor" were considered a normal annual practice. Along with a little Gumout, ign cables almost the same at one point. To think what the average teen would say to that today! Half don't even want to be bothered operating the damn things!!:realcrazy:
 
Yeah the son of a guy I know had inherited a 79 Ford van w/a 351w. last year. I saw him a couple months ago (he's about 35ish) and he told me his van had left him stranded one day, had to have a tow truck bring it home.
The 1st thing he said was that he couldn't figure out how to get codes from it.
He threw all the spare parts at it that his father in law had bought for it years ago and figured out it was the ignition module box because that was the last thing he changed before he could finally get it to run. Thought putting that cap rotor wires and plugs in before he got to that point was a waste of time, was glad they were "free" at least
I then asked how long since the last previous tuneup had been done, he had no idea. The van only has like 80k original miles on it. Age of parts, corrosion,etc on parts replaced wasn't even an afterthought. Codes? On a carbureted '79 anything I laughed my AZZ off when I heard him say that.

And people wonder why I like driving a 78 sport fury this time of year. And am working on a 85 slant 6 powered pickup for my next daily driver to replace my 99 dakota..
I'd so much rather have those vehicles back daily in the shop at work than the overcomplicated overpriced plastic junk I have to work on all the time.
 
Ethan Morris said:
As I was driving my 73 Duster around last night, I pulled into a gas station to let it cool off because it had stalled just a few minutes ago. When I started to drive off, it wanted to stall when I accelerated. It idles rough and I tried to just the carb but that didn't help. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Replace the coil if you haven’t done already . Good luck
 
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