I need some input on a 1000hp 727 trans
- Thread starter mike1965
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Your welcome. The wide bushing pump isn't the early style, it's the 71 and later style. The early style is the narrow bushing that's inferior
You should check into this book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1557883998/?tag=joeychgo-20
IMO it's the best book you'll find on the 727 torqueflite. Gives a full description of them and has chapters on building them for street use, street/strip or full race. Best part is it's not very expensive
mike1965
Well-Known Member
Thanks , when people say early and late model what years are they talking about and I see that there's a pump like the one I put up here and there's another pump with a plastic vent what years do these come on .
I'm getting one of those books.
mike1965
Well-Known Member
I have decided to just upgrade the 1970 727 trans that's in the car , I took it apart tonite and it has a 4.2 lever should this be changed for a different ratio
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Generally speaking early is 1970 and earlier. Late is 1971 and after. All that concerns is the width of the support bushing. There were other changes as the yrs went by. The plastic vent came about sometime in the early 70's. Sorry, I don't remember exactly what year.
I think it was already mentioned but you use what ever shift lever the aftermarket valve body calls for. Most call for a 5.0 lever but I've also seen some call for a 3.8 or 4.2
MidTexCuda
Ancient Member
I am so glad this thread was made. I will be in the same boat soon and was debating beefing up the 727 or trying to find a way and means to go Lenco
mike1965
Well-Known Member
The valve body that was in it was a Cheetah rev man. with the 4.2 lever the trans brake valve body I am replacing it with I didn't get any paper work with or any extra parts it came with the car and the guy I bought it from has no clue so now I need to find out what lever to use with this should be fun.
On another note when I took the trans apart it did have a 12 roller bolt in sprag looks like a TCI unit but I am replacing it with the 16 roller bolt in from SMR and all new clutchs and the new billet drum with the bigger piston I will start assy. soon and I will let ya know how it goes .
Mike
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Mike if you look the valve body over you should be able to find the manufacturer's name and part # and serial # on it and look it up on their website. If it doesn't show up on their website call them and they should be able to help you. I recently went through the same thing with an older A&A valve body. It wasn't on their site cause they don't make that model anymore. Called them and they fixed me right up with the instructions.
BTW: if I'm not mistaken Cheetah valve bodies generally call for a 5.0 lever so that 4.2 wasn't exactly optimal for it but will work without causing a problem.
As I sit and think about it I'd just about bet that any valve body that doesn't have low band apply would call for a 5.0 lever. Valve bodies with low band apply most likely call for a lower ratio lever to help prevent 2-3 overlap. That being the case I'd bet your new body will take a 5.0 lever.
BTW: if I'm not mistaken Cheetah valve bodies generally call for a 5.0 lever so that 4.2 wasn't exactly optimal for it but will work without causing a problem.
As I sit and think about it I'd just about bet that any valve body that doesn't have low band apply would call for a 5.0 lever. Valve bodies with low band apply most likely call for a lower ratio lever to help prevent 2-3 overlap. That being the case I'd bet your new body will take a 5.0 lever.
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