Ok guys, I know there are 10 million ignition/ballast resistor questions out there, but after reading them, I still have questions regarding how I have my wiring set up.
I've started w/ a stock repro engine/charging harness, and have made modifications trying to use as much or the original wires as possible.
These are the mods/updates I've made:
Late-model internally regulated alternator (obviously eliminated the VR on the bulkhead)
remote "sense" wire to a main "bus" (stater relay stud)
Mallory ignition box
Mallory Unilite dist.
Ok, now let me TRY to explain as best I can, as it relates to the ballast resistor, how it is set up from the factory, versus how I have modified it:
the stock BR has 2 wires leading to one side - one from the ignition switch(brown), and one leading to the + terminal of the coil (blue). they are on the same side of the BR. On the other side of the BR is a wire leading to the "ign" terminal of the stock voltage regulator.
That same "ign" terminal on the VR is joined by a wire directly from the ignition switch (blue). so there are 2 wires on that terminal. on the other side of the VR, one green wire leads to the "field" terminal on the alternator.
Ok - here's what I did...
The new alt is internally regulated, so I need to connect an "ign," "sense," and "B+" directly to it. So, First, from the "ign" terminal of the original VR, I extended the harness so the wires connect to the alternator "ign" terminal. so basically, it's the blue from the ignition switch, and the wire from one end of the ballast resistor. I routed a new "sense" wire to the starter relay battery post, and routed a 10gauge wire from the B+ on the alt to that same relay battery post.
ok, now that the alt is hooked up, I now had to focus on the Mallory ignition box...
Basically, the Mallory box hooked to the dist with no problems. It also has a + and - that go directly to the battery for power, again, no problem there. It has 2 wires that go to the + and - of the coil, no problem, except that it replaces the original BR wire to the + coil terminal. Now, where I think I get into an issue is the switched ignition source that needs to be connected to a small red wire from the ignition box. Basically, what I did was take the original coil + wire of the BR (remember the side of the BR that has 2 wires connected - I'm using the one that went to the coil+) and used that to connect to the red wire of the box and distributor.
So, questions are:
Does this system work the way I have it wired; maintaining the ballast resistor?
If I have to eliminate the resistor, can I just basically connect the wires at either end of the BR, and will that have any effect on the VR in the Alt; since the stock "ign" terminal of the VR came from the BR, is there something to that?
I hope I've explained it clearly - thanks for the help guys!!
I've started w/ a stock repro engine/charging harness, and have made modifications trying to use as much or the original wires as possible.
These are the mods/updates I've made:
Late-model internally regulated alternator (obviously eliminated the VR on the bulkhead)
remote "sense" wire to a main "bus" (stater relay stud)
Mallory ignition box
Mallory Unilite dist.
Ok, now let me TRY to explain as best I can, as it relates to the ballast resistor, how it is set up from the factory, versus how I have modified it:
the stock BR has 2 wires leading to one side - one from the ignition switch(brown), and one leading to the + terminal of the coil (blue). they are on the same side of the BR. On the other side of the BR is a wire leading to the "ign" terminal of the stock voltage regulator.
That same "ign" terminal on the VR is joined by a wire directly from the ignition switch (blue). so there are 2 wires on that terminal. on the other side of the VR, one green wire leads to the "field" terminal on the alternator.
Ok - here's what I did...
The new alt is internally regulated, so I need to connect an "ign," "sense," and "B+" directly to it. So, First, from the "ign" terminal of the original VR, I extended the harness so the wires connect to the alternator "ign" terminal. so basically, it's the blue from the ignition switch, and the wire from one end of the ballast resistor. I routed a new "sense" wire to the starter relay battery post, and routed a 10gauge wire from the B+ on the alt to that same relay battery post.
ok, now that the alt is hooked up, I now had to focus on the Mallory ignition box...
Basically, the Mallory box hooked to the dist with no problems. It also has a + and - that go directly to the battery for power, again, no problem there. It has 2 wires that go to the + and - of the coil, no problem, except that it replaces the original BR wire to the + coil terminal. Now, where I think I get into an issue is the switched ignition source that needs to be connected to a small red wire from the ignition box. Basically, what I did was take the original coil + wire of the BR (remember the side of the BR that has 2 wires connected - I'm using the one that went to the coil+) and used that to connect to the red wire of the box and distributor.
So, questions are:
Does this system work the way I have it wired; maintaining the ballast resistor?
If I have to eliminate the resistor, can I just basically connect the wires at either end of the BR, and will that have any effect on the VR in the Alt; since the stock "ign" terminal of the VR came from the BR, is there something to that?
I hope I've explained it clearly - thanks for the help guys!!
