I put it into gear and it dies.

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Mattax said:
View attachment 1715853702

The female terminals have a barb on the backs.
To remove the females, use a flattened cotter pin, tiny screw driver, or the tool they make for it to depress the tab while pushing it out.
View attachment 1715853703

Those above are Packard 56 but Chrysler ones work the same way/
View attachment 1715853704
View attachment 1715853705

Sometimes they are interchangable. Sometimes not and they won't fit in or they will be too loose in the connector made for the other.
When installing them make sure the locking tab is raised.
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ok, I see how that works, that is way simpler that I thought it was going to be.
after I solve the original issue that this thread was created for I will go back and re do that connector. (seeing as it runs and I don't want to mess anything up trying to fix it)
Tomorrow should be the last day of trying to fix this issue. I have the whole day to work on it and now the timing is correct, there are no more vacuum leaks, and I have the vacuum gauge for tuning the carb.
hopefully it will drive tomorrow and i'll get a video for you all.
 
If you got a battery charger, give it a slow charge beforehand. That way the car wires won't get as heavily taxed by the alternator charging a low battery.
 
Mattax said:
Or you could buy a new middle connector and some new terminals.
Depends on how serviceable you want to make it and well sealled.
DMT makes sells the seals.
Either way, I'd pop all the metal terminals out and clean them.

Maybe you've seen these, but if you haven't.
A bit of Wiring 101

What do y'all use to clean the metal connectors that go into the bulkhead on either side of the fw?

There's more threads you can look for including a few on splices. All pretty good IIRC.
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Yeah, those are good threads. I wish we could sort threads like that into.......oh wait that'll never happen.
 
Here's the kit I have for servicing electrical connectors.
DSCF1770.JPG
DSCF1769.JPG
 
halifaxhops said:
Same here good kit if you do a lot of electrical like us.
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yeah, I am not the best at the electro-digital thing. I can only solder a little bit, but I have gotten pretty good at replacing ends with new crimp connectors and heat shrink.:D
PXL_20220116_181535874.jpg
 
shittyslant6 said:
yeah, I am not the best at the electro-digital thing. I can only solder a little bit, but I have gotten pretty good at replacing ends with new crimp connectors and heat shrink.:DView attachment 1715853914
Click to expand...
just a comment..........IF your original plastic connector housings are good, there is/ was no reason to abandon them-------you can get the Packard 56/58 terminals to "rebuild" them. Be careful to get the correct ones for replacement.
 
FIXED!
The car goes into gear and it moves without dying.
I pulled it out of the garage, and I closed the hood and I took it to a dirt lot two houses down and I did a big drift in it.:steering:

Transmission is being weird, I either overfilled it, under filled it, or he shift solenoid valve thing in it is bad.
but that's for another thread, It is FIXED!
PXL_20220116_213855837.jpg
PXL_20220116_215349347.jpg
 
shittyslant6 said:
You cannot break it if it's broken But you can fix it so it cannot be fixed.
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YOU STOLE MY THING!!! LOL

I've "fixed" a few things. That was coined "sometime in the 70's". A then friend had a Ford carb spacer with a PVC fitting into the rear of the spacer which he'd broke off. There as JUST enough room to re-drill and tap it for 1/8 pipe. I put it in the vise and said, "I sure hope I don't break it."

He says "****!! It's already broken!! You can't break it more!!"

I told him, "maybe but I could fix it so it can't be fixed"
 
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