I started to assemble my 410" today!

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darndart

darndart

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I notched the lower cylinder walls for clearance, installed the cam bearings, and checked the cam for proper fit. Now its time to drop the crank in and check the clearances, and then its time to start file fitting rings!:love10:
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Bearing clearance and trust clearance turned out AOK!:thumleft:
Time to start checking rings for end gap.
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Whlie you're at it, check the oil pump to stud clearance... You should have to shave a little off the pump body, run the 12pt ARP nut on that stud, and cut the stud shorter. It's easier to do that now rather than when you try to bolt the pump on...
 
moper said:
Whlie you're at it, check the oil pump to stud clearance... You should have to shave a little off the pump body, run the 12pt ARP nut on that stud, and cut the stud shorter. It's easier to do that now rather than when you try to bolt the pump on...
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That's a good idea. I'll check that before I go any further.
 
moper said:
Whlie you're at it, check the oil pump to stud clearance... You should have to shave a little off the pump body, run the 12pt ARP nut on that stud, and cut the stud shorter. It's easier to do that now rather than when you try to bolt the pump on...
Click to expand...

I agree, that's what I did as well.

What cylinder head are you using? I'm curious to see what times your car runs with the new bullet (I've been eye balling that cam for over a year now...just haven’t pulled the trigger on it yet).
 
flyfish said:
I agree, that's what I did as well.

What cylinder head are you using? I'm curious to see what times your car runs with the new bullet (I've been eye balling that cam for over a year now...just haven’t pulled the trigger on it yet).
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I actually bought a top end kit from a fellow racer at our track that consisted of the Comp roller cam, Comp roller lifters, Comp pushrods, Comp Magnum roller rockers, & nicely ported Edelbrock Performer RPM heads that have Ferrea 11/32" valves, matching Comp springs, titanium retainers, and flow 287 I and 212 E @ .650 lift. I also have a new Super Vic to top it off. The guy I bought the stuff from had an identical 410" short block that I am building and dynoed @ 594 HP. He ran it in an all steel 71 Cuda with 6.60 1/8th mile times. I saw it many times. He has since went with a W9 top end and is running in the 6 teens.
 
darndart said:
I actually bought a top end kit from a fellow racer at our track that consisted of the Comp roller cam, Comp roller lifters, Comp pushrods, Comp Magnum roller rockers, & nicely ported Edelbrock Performer RPM heads that have Ferrea 11/32" valves, matching Comp springs, titanium retainers, and flow 287 I and 212 E @ .650 lift. I also have a new Super Vic to top it off. The guy I bought the stuff from had an identical 410" short block that I am building and dynoed @ 594 HP. He ran it in an all steel 71 Cuda with 6.60 1/8th mile times. I saw it many times. He has since went with a W9 top end and is running in the 6 teens.
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Nice! That is right where I want my car to be (6.60's). I'm slowly getting the car faster, 6.80's now, just 2 tenths to go! With a bigger cam and carb, my car would be right where I want it…possibly faster.

Can't wait to see how your build turns out.:thumbrig:
 
I ran into a little snag this weekend. I started to put my pistons & rod in the motor, when I discovered that 2 rods won't fit on a common journal! I put in piston #1, no problem, then put in piston #2 and it rubs on #1 rod and won't go all the way down. It looks like there is too much radii on the edges of the rod journals. If I pull the bearings out the rods fit fine. So after a couple of phone calls today, I talked to Ryan @ Shady Dell and he said if you are using the Forged SCAT crank, you must use a race bearing, because they are narrower to fit the extra radii of the forged crank. Sure enough if you look up Clevite H series bearings in Summit Racing in the notes it says "narrow bearing". So I then called Coast High Performance and explained the problem and he knew right away that was a problem and would ship the proper bearings asap. So now I must sit and wait!!! I was hoping to have a completed motor by this coming weekend!
 
Yup. As a default I just order the narrow bearings when I'm doing any stroker crank.
 
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