Idler arm gouging headpipes

-
danielb927

danielb927

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2009
Messages
461
Reaction score
19
Location
Southeast MN
My idler arm is cutting a nasty groove into my new TTI passenger side headpipe. I've already bumped up the engine height with three big washers under the passenger side motor mount, I don't think I can possibly put any more washers under there because there won't be enough bolt left sticking through to attach the mount to the K-member. What else can I do to get the exhaust up off the idler arm so it's not rubbing through? Just dent it in around where it's rubbing? I'd prefer that to having it rub all the way through, at least. You'd think when you have an exhaust shop install something they'd at least check the clearance...
 
Same exact thing happened to me ...gouged a hole, had to have that brazed closed. I then cranked up the tortion bar, that solved the problem and also leveled the car.
 
danielb927 said:
My idler arm is cutting a nasty groove into my new TTI passenger side headpipe. I've already bumped up the engine height with three big washers under the passenger side motor mount, I don't think I can possibly put any more washers under there because there won't be enough bolt left sticking through to attach the mount to the K-member. What else can I do to get the exhaust up off the idler arm so it's not rubbing through? Just dent it in around where it's rubbing? I'd prefer that to having it rub all the way through, at least. You'd think when you have an exhaust shop install something they'd at least check the clearance...
Click to expand...

What K-member do you have? 73 spool motor mounts are tough move up.

What year idler/centerlink/pitman are you running?

I've seen different brand idlers put the end tip in different places. Sometimes a different brand will solve the problem.

This is a 73-76 K-member with 73-76 idler/centerlink/pitman and moog idler. TTI 3/4" stepped headers.
 

Attachments

  • 3_19_11Sm59.JPG
    139.1 KB · Views: 559
  • 3_19_11Sm68.JPG
    134.9 KB · Views: 567
Beautiful headers those are. I had the same problem and didn't want to do any cutting. I put a cable around the header tube that was rubbing on my idler arm, then connected the cable to a strong spring tied to the frame. The heat of the tube upon running would allow the tube to weaken just enough to warp the tube in the direction of my spring. That gave it clearance to clear the idler arm.
 
sure you got the right idler arm?

I have seen two different idler arms that fit 73 A bodies... Had problem with one of them hitting the headers....I bought the one Moog sells...and it fit with no problems
 
Could be the wrong idler arm, it's what came on the car when I got it 2 years back. The alignment was awful when I first drove the car home, could be an indicator that the arms are wrong? It seems kind of weird to me that I've got a '73 car and the pre-'73 mounts so I wouldn't be surprised if I have the wrong idler arm. I'll try to get a picture and measurements to check.

I've got new torsion bars on the way and just put in new shocks so we'll see if that does anything to help. It's got the biscuit style mounts and I've already got 3 thick washers under the passenger side, but it still rubs.
 
on the drag link...do the idler arm and pitman arm enter from the bottom or the top...

73 was the change over year ...73 enter from the top....72 and older enter from the bottom,,,,,

hope i got that right without going and looking


went i was rebuilding the front end on my 73 duster...i bought a idler arm from autozone..and it hit the tti headers...

i then got one from Moog K7086
 
danielb927 said:
Could be the wrong idler arm, it's what came on the car when I got it 2 years back. The alignment was awful when I first drove the car home, could be an indicator that the arms are wrong? It seems kind of weird to me that I've got a '73 car and the pre-'73 mounts so I wouldn't be surprised if I have the wrong idler arm. I'll try to get a picture and measurements to check.

I've got new torsion bars on the way and just put in new shocks so we'll see if that does anything to help. It's got the biscuit style mounts and I've already got 3 thick washers under the passenger side, but it still rubs.
Click to expand...

Is your car originally a /6 car? Sounds like K-member has be replaces. Lots of reasons for that. At this point take nothing for granted.

I've seen 72 A-bodies with biscuit motor mounts but the bottom half of the K-member had a 73-76 up stamping with provisions for thru type sway bar. But never seen a 73 with a 72 type biscuit mounts.
 
70aarcuda said:
on the drag link...do the idler arm and pitman arm enter from the bottom or the top...

73 was the change over year ...73 enter from the top....72 and older enter from the bottom,,,,,

hope i got that right without going and looking
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
My 69 had the same issue with my TTI's. I had to crimp the area where it was rubbing so it wouldn't rub through. I kinda sucks to have to molest a nice new shiny set of polished headers to make them fit. You can't tell me that with all the comments and complaints to TTI regarding the same areas of close tolerances, that they couldn't tweek the bending process a bit and cover the majority of complaints. Sure there would always be the exceptions, but go to any car show and ask any A body small block owner who has TTI headers on his car and ask what areas were tight or rubbing and it will always be the same answer. Just saying....
 
416stroker said:
My 69 had the same issue with my TTI's. I had to crimp the area where it was rubbing so it wouldn't rub through. I kinda sucks to have to molest a nice new shiny set of polished headers to make them fit. You can't tell me that with all the comments and complaints to TTI regarding the same areas of close tolerances, that they couldn't tweek the bending process a bit and cover the majority of complaints. Sure there would always be the exceptions, but go to any car show and ask any A body small block owner who has TTI headers on his car and ask what areas were tight or rubbing and it will always be the same answer. Just saying....
Click to expand...

Then ask him if his crankshaft is centered to the chassis like the instructions say. Then whatever the "response" is, go measure it yourself with a tape measure.

These cars are used and abused in the last 40 years. Look at the car in question in this thread. It sure sounds like it has a k-member swap. Ok, why did it get swapped? Collision or motor swap. These cars get a mis-mash of parts put on them over the years.

Then look at the people that changed idler manufactures and solved thier problem... So does TTI change thier product for every made in India/China idler??

Did you seen the thread about the guy with Dougs header problems. He flattened a set of headers. The motor mounts were installed wrong... So do make a set of header that allow the motor mount to be swapped??
 
I agree with you that a lot of these cars have had multiple owners over the years doing who knows what to them and swapping everything from the kitchen sink to the toilet seat into them. But when you have a car that you have owned since new that's never been wrecked or molested and you know of other owners who are the one owner of their cars, with the same issues, then it gets to be apparent that there is room for TTI to make some improvents/changes in their computer program. We're not asking for the moon here, just some minor changes to clear up the same issues that most of us are having that own unmolested cars.
 
I have an early a and had an idler arm rub even with the Dougs headers. What helped to minimize it was I hooked up the exhaust system and loosened the header bolts at the heads. Then I GENTLY jacked up the whole exhaust system, headers and all. I believe I gained 1/4" and the idler arm rub was minimal. Just something that worked on mine.
 
Used to be a /6 car, so I'm sure the K-member has been swapped. About to go out and get some pictures of the arms and k-member today when I take her out for a cruise.
 
Ok, here's a shot of the passenger side idler arm and linkage. The exhaust pipe is as high and tight to the engine as possible, and there's about 1/2" of washers under the passenger's side motor mount. This one is when the exhaust was just mocked up and before I had the washers in.

p1020022f.jpg


Better shot of just the idler arm, as it is now.

p1020750x.jpg


K-member from the front. There's something at the very front middle that looks like it should go to the radiator mount but doesn't come close to reaching that far. Also has a sway bar.

p1020753n.jpg
 
Never seen a washer under the castel nut on idler arm...
 
You've got a:

-68-72 A-body K-member

-73-76 centerlink

-Supposed to be 73-76 A-body idler arm. It looks like that, but E/B body ones look close too.

-Should have a 73 and up large output shaft power/manual steering box.

You have a TTI headpipe but what is the part number for that TTI kit? What right side exhaust manifold do you have? Do you have a picture of it? What is the casting number on that exhaust manifold?
 
It's got power steering but I don't know anything about what type. It seems to work fine other than a little leaking.

Right manifold is the ball-joint type, casting number 3418623. The TTI part number for the passenger-side headpipe is E25RES (got a full 2.5" x-pipe system).

Before a trip for ceramic coating:

p1020015f.jpg
 
Are the X-pipe in and out connection totally loose and free? The x-pipe connection changes your width and lenght at the same time. So it gets complicated.

When rotating the end of headpipe toward the passenger side direction does the area near the idler go up?

I'd think about disconnecting the head pipe from the X pipe. Then see if that frees you up enough to get the head pipe away from the idler.
 
I can try, some of the connections were welded up when they did it at the shop. Sounds like you're saying maybe the pipe needs to go away from the engine more, that could give it room to move upwards and out of the way? As it is, it'd run into the bracing between the tranny bellhousing and engine if I tried to move it straight up
 
danielb927 said:
I can try, some of the connections were welded up when they did it at the shop. Sounds like you're saying maybe the pipe needs to go away from the engine more, that could give it room to move upwards and out of the way? As it is, it'd run into the bracing between the tranny bellhousing and engine if I tried to move it straight up
Click to expand...

Did they weld and install all of this at the shop including install the head pipe in question? If you paid them to install it. They should should have checked to see if the idler was hitting.

I'm saying turn/twist the end of the pipe , so the part near the idler moves up. Are the connection in and out of the X-pipe welded up? I think you need that movement to make adjustments.

BTW TTI instruction say don't weld up the pipe. My system is not welded and all. At least don't weld it up untill you drive it and make sure you don't need any more adjustments.
 
I went out and took a look. The slip connectors are welded to the headpipe but just clamped to the x-pipe so I should be able to loosen and move around some. The headpipe connection to the slip connectors was the only thing welded because it wouldn't seal properly. Should still be room for some tweaking, I think.
 
Just wanted to update if anyone comes through and is looking at old threads. I took a trip to the exhaust shop and they put a dimple in the pipe for me and sealed up a leak at the driver's side manifold connection too for no charge. Glad to know there's still some good folks out there.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top