If you were buying an engine what would you look for?

[69CudaFan]

Here is the deal. I have a deal in the hopper for a 69 340 long block. This is what I was able to gather from my in-person inspection:

Motor turns by hand. No exhaust manifolds (bummer) or carb.
X Heads
Mopar Performance aluminum valve covers
Seven blade fan
All other accessories
Points distributor?? (not sure how to tell)
Edelbrock 340 Torker Intake
Plugs looked to be oil fouled (black and grainy on porcelain and electrode vice that good grayish color).

Right hand (passenger) side of block:
DOM: 3-11-69
Passenger side rail near oilpan: 9B369221

Left hand (driver's) side:
2780930-340-7
Left hand front of block, just beneath heads, kind of hard to read but looks like:
EW340P28390105

Covers were off, dizzy was out. Cam looks to have some very light pitting and lifters were flat on the bottom by flashlight in dizzy hole. Oil pan was still on, but accessories (WP, Alt, Fuel Pump, Pullies, belts, Ignition, Valve Covers) were all off to the side. Motor was painted rattle-can black over what looks like Mopar orange (I know there is debate on this since mine is blue, others were orange). Guy has had it for a year and wanted to put it in a D100 truck, but has had a change of heart. He said the guy he bought it from said it ran prior to being pulled and sold and all he would replace would be the timing chain.

I just wanted to know a ballpark price members would pay. He has given me two days to figure out what I want to do before he offers it up to someone else. Any information, tips, tricks, and things to look for would help. Additionally, if there are numbers I am missing or a way to know what this came from, please let me know. My biggest apprehension is with the mods to the exterior it makes me think that someone may have bored it out previously. Am I being paranoid?

FYI, I have a 69 Cuda numbers matching 4 speed. I was thinking of this being the "fun" engine (after a rebuild) so that I can spare the stocker. Thoughts?

 

[cudamark]

If you can't hear it run and do a compression test/oil pressure test, you're pretty much buying a core. Is the guy giving you any kind of guarantee? If it needs (or you are planning to anyway) a rebuild, what happens if something isn't rebuildable? If the crank is already .030/.030, the block is .060 over, the heads are cracked or seats destroyed, etc. you just bought a boat anchor........

 

[sireland67]

Just what cudamark posted.
Flip a coin it the air, heads you win tails you loose.
Remember it is a 40+ year old motor.
Without it being tore down it is really hard to tell what condition it is in.
If the guy is going on another guys word, who knows what you will find.
Might be a good deal if the original timing chain jumped, they usually lasted about 80-100K before they went.
Points distributors will have one wire and electronic will have two.

 

[abodyjoe]

If you can't hear it run and do a compression test/oil pressure test, you're pretty much buying a core. Is the guy giving you any kind of guarantee? If it needs (or you are planning to anyway) a rebuild, what happens if something isn't rebuildable? If the crank is already .030/.030, the block is .060 over, the heads are cracked or seats destroyed, etc. you just bought a boat anchor........

i agree.. its just a core.

 

[pagilman]

Last summer picked up a 340 (yellow rattle can), for 600.00 sold it before i got home for 900.00. I thought it was a core. The guy I sold it to still thanks me when I see him. THe engine had been rebuilt with some internal goodies and ran like a raped ape, so you never know what you got till you open it up. ( I should have kept it but I have too many engines and went for a quick buck) I wouldn't pay more than 600.00.