ignition help

[mattydean]

1967 Valiant has a slant 6 distributor is original points. I ran the car last 18 months ago. Went to start vehicle and would not start. I am not getting spark from the coil. Checked ballast resistor functioning, coil functioning (even put a new one on). I am not getting power to the positive side of coil.

Help what am I missing.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I'm confused; it says ballast is functioning and coil is functioning, yet no power at coil plus. Is this like trick question?
Disconnect the minus off the coil and check for power at the plus. If you have power now, clean the points,make sure they open and close and recheck the spark.
Still no power at the plus? remove the little capacitor that is sometimes attached there, and try again.

 

[67Dart273]

Break points ignition is the simplest in the world.

1...You need voltage to the coil, obviously
2....You need a GOOD CONDENSER
3....The points must actually carry current, not just visually open and close

"How it works" THIS IS IMPORTANT I am not trying to talk down to you

There are two ways to crank the engine and start it with a "working" system...............

A......"Key in run" jumper the relay, crank and start
B......Crank the engine and start it using the key to crank

WHY? is this important?

Because Mopar has TWO distinct electrical circuits

1......"run" .......With the key in "run" the IGN1 terminal feeds power out through the bulkhead connector to the ballast and onwards to the coil. THIS IS HOT ONLY IN RUN, and not in "start."

2......"Bypass" With the key in "crank" or start, the bypass circuit is hot ONLY IN START, comes off a dedicated contact on the switch, runs through the bulkhead, and feeds power direct to the coil

So if there is a problem in the "run" circuit, and you try to check start by jumpering the relay, you will not have power

Conversely, if there is a problem with the bypass circuit, and you jumper the relay, you will not "see" the problem

THE FACT (if you are correct) that you do not have power to the coil (assuming you are cranking with the key) means there is a problem in the IGN2 circuit, normally brown wire, which connects to the COIL side of the ballast

ONWARDS............To double check, and make sure the ballast, run circuit, coil and distributor are OK, TRY starting the car "in run" while jumpering the start relay. The coil will get less voltage, and produce a weaker spark, but it likely will fire and might run

You need to go over to MyMopar if you have not, and download yourself a free service manual, as well as the aftermarket (simplified) wiring diagrams there

 

[Rapid Robert]

I would start by pulling the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter (we know it cranks & no need to run the bat down) & have a helper hold the key to "start" & see if the "brown wire" to the coil (+) is hot. start at the bulkhead with a thin probe/your VOM. As "67" said, go to www.mymopar.com for diagrams. EDIT In fact I would seperate the bulkhead half first & reinstall it which might be enough right there to restore continuity.

 

[BillGrissom]

Need to explain how you verified "coil functioning". To us, that means you got a spark from the HV output plug wire held close to the block, as you shorted and released the coil- terminal (all the points do). That would require having >8 V at coil+. Did you jumper from BAT+ to get that? If so, you could start the car like that, but don't leave it so "hot-wired" for long since 12 V on coil+ continuously will degrade the points and overheat the coil. Your key switch applies that only when in the "crank" position.

If you get tired of fooling with points (obsolete technology), read-up on the GM 8-pin HEI conversion or the Pertronix Ignitor II/III conversion.