Ignition is still on when key is at accessory position.

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zookgumby

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Hi all,
I have a 1965 dart gt with a 67 well-built 318 installed by a previous owner. It has been upgraded to an early model mopar electronic ignition with a four post ballast. The wiring has been tampered with - I've found and repaired several wrong connections dealing with turn signals and brake lights. I've spent some time looking for an obvious wiring error related to the ignition system, and replaced the ignition switch itself, but I still can't find the wiring error. Anyone have any ideas, maybe related to the electronic ignition upgrade?
thanks, Tom
 
Are you sure it is on, or that something added is causing a backfeed on run/ shutdown? In other words, start with the engine off and do not crank. Turn the key to ACC and see if the ign system is getting power, AKA does the coil + have power? It should not.


It's either right in the switch or a wiring error that has somehow interconnected the ign "run" and ACC busses.

So first thing to do is disconnect the key, turn it to ACC and do some ohmeter / continuity checks

From BATT into key:

"run" (usually dark blu) (IGN1)should ONLY be hot in the run position. It should go dead with key twisted to start, and dead in ACC position

bypass (usually brown, the ballast bypass) IGN2 should only be hot from BAT when key is twisted to start. THIS IS a different set of contacts from the "start" circuit to prevent backfeed

START, (usuually yellow) from BAT should only be "hot" with key twisted to start

ACC should be hot with key either in "run" or ACC and in no other position.

With this checked out, you have work ahead, as no idea at what point this could have been cross connected.

One thing you could do is separate the bulkhead connector. Get a diagram and identify what comes through there and see if pulling that fixed the problem. Bear in mind that when you separate the bulkhead connector, the ammeter circuit will be affected
 
67Dart273 said:
Are you sure it is on, or that something added is causing a backfeed on run/ shutdown? In other words, start with the engine off and do not crank. Turn the key to ACC and see if the ign system is getting power, AKA does the coil + have power? It should not.


It's either right in the switch or a wiring error that has somehow interconnected the ign "run" and ACC busses.

So first thing to do is disconnect the key, turn it to ACC and do some ohmeter / continuity checks

From BATT into key:

"run" (usually dark blu) (IGN1)should ONLY be hot in the run position. It should go dead with key twisted to start, and dead in ACC position

bypass (usually brown, the ballast bypass) IGN2 should only be hot from BAT when key is twisted to start. THIS IS a different set of contacts from the "start" circuit to prevent backfeed

START, (usuually yellow) from BAT should only be "hot" with key twisted to start

ACC should be hot with key either in "run" or ACC and in no other position.

With this checked out, you have work ahead, as no idea at what point this could have been cross connected.

One thing you could do is separate the bulkhead connector. Get a diagram and identify what comes through there and see if pulling that fixed the problem. Bear in mind that when you separate the bulkhead connector, the ammeter circuit will be affected
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll give it a shot and see what happens.
Tom
 
I recall seeing that msd(?) ignitions have an always hot wire and a feed from the ignition switch IGN 1 and IGN 2 to tell it to be on.
 
does the car run?

off acc run start

power is switched by your key to ACC first
then to RUN
then to start momentarily while you run the starter

4 wires
1 is power into switch the other 3 are feeds out



in theory if you had the wires wrong i.e the RUN wire on the ACC connector on the switchand the ACC wire on the RUN connector

when you get to ACC there is power to the ignition system which will stay powered when you switch to RUN and start

Do the things that are normally work when the switch is in ACC or RUN NOT work when in ACC? if they don't then your ACC and RUN wires are mixed up on the switch

Basically if they work when in RUN but not in ACC
yeah we got it sussed

the ignition switch is an OFF ON ON/ON

OFF is off
ACC in on
then ACC and RUN are both on when the car is running
but when starting on some switches ACC is ON, RUN is ON and Start is ON when starting
in other switches ACC is off when RUN and Start is ON to reduce load

if you switch is like the first one then you car will mostly operate as you expect with the ACC and Run wires swapped at the switch

OR

you can cause strange problems if you have a wire connected to the back of the fuse box in the wrong section
fuse box is in 2 parts
you have a few fuses powered all the time and you have fuses only powered when the switch is in ACC or RUN

bridging the 2 parts via an incorrectly connected wire or a deliberate bridge (a get me going breakdown work around after a small electrical fire) can cause peculiar behaviour
 
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