Ignition Module Recommendations?

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Ant

Ant

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The ignition module in my 73 slant 6 Dart seems to have failed. Awhile ago I replaced the crapped out aftermarket icu with an aftermarket one from Carquest that was advertised as "premium" and well... it let me down. Now with two borked modules, I'm feeling more paranoid about these parts(I already was paranoid about parts) and I feel I have to be more picky, even when it comes to higher priced "premium" junk.
If anyone has any recommendations with good history, I might buy two.
 
So far this one seems to have no bad reports.
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Ignition problem???

Hi I’m 17 and building a 90 d150 with a 318 magnum carb swaped. I’m having an issue with my ignition box I believe. Truck starts and runs for a little bit runs great then missfires and dies (can start right back up and runs fine then repeats). I was having a high rpm breakup also but I bypassed...
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Or find an older one that hasn't been used/or abused.

I would also check for outside causes of failures. Myabe something that causes a voltage spike, or a short or ?
So many times we find cars have modifications, hacks, or other things that cause them not to work like new.
 
Also check that the thing is not overcharging. We just had a recent war over this LOL Is the ECU mounted in the stock location? If so, it should not be particularly victim to engine heat. There is a possibility that a coil with a primary partial short could be drawing enough extra current to damage them. Might pay to replace the coil

The poor fact is, that obtaining quality parts for these is nil. Even if you get "NOS" they might be a problem with bad / deteriorating components, particularly capacitors.

Some of us use GM HEI modules, and a few guys have even gutten a Mopar box and put the GM module inside
 
67Dart273 said:
Also check that the thing is not overcharging. We just had a recent war over this LOL Is the ECU mounted in the stock location? If so, it should not be particularly victim to engine heat. There is a possibility that a coil with a primary partial short could be drawing enough extra current to damage them. Might pay to replace the coil

The poor fact is, that obtaining quality parts for these is nil. Even if you get "NOS" they might be a problem with bad / deteriorating components, particularly capacitors.

Some of us use GM HEI modules, and a few guys have even gutten a Mopar box and put the GM module inside
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The module is located in the factory position by the driver's side fender. I also installed a new coil and distributor pickup, checked the wiring, checked the pickup and at the other end of the harness. I have power going to the ICU with the key in run like I should, I believe I have ran out of things to check. I hate to call new parts bad, but it does hurt paying extra cash for "premium" and getting junk instead(has happened too often).

Lol, I'm really tempted to just convert to points.
 
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I second the "Hi Rev 7500". I have one on Vixen and it runs great so far. Both Rick Ehrenberg and Jegs advertise it to be made in USA and it comes with a made in USA sticker on it. I know. It's just a sticker, but I don't think they would get by with it long if it wasn't true. Wherever it's made, it seems to be pretty good.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I second the "Hi Rev 7500". I have one on Vixen and it runs great so far. Both Rick Ehrenberg and Jegs advertise it to be made in USA and it comes with a made in USA sticker on it. I know. It's just a sticker, but I don't think they would get by with it long if it wasn't true. Wherever it's made, it seems to be pretty good.
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Hopefully if i order two of them I should be fine.
 
Ordering the Hi Rev.
I see a lot of people saying good things about it. Also, hopefully I can get my money back on this Carqrap junk.
 
Ant said:
Ordering the Hi Rev.
I see a lot of people saying good things about it. Also, hopefully I can get my money back on this Carqrap junk.
Click to expand...
sorry for digging up an almost 1 year old post, but I noticed my 30 year old orange box on my slant six duster leaking goo out the back, and I've had some drivability issues, so I was thinking about getting a new box, was going to get either a Standard Motor LX101 or a Napa Echlin ECH TP51. how did the Hi Rev work out on your slanty?
 
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How to tell a "fake" ECU from a real one

There are a ton of fake ecu's out there two easy wats to tell at a glance are the height of the transistor, usally the fake ones are around 3/8" high and a real one 5/16 or so. Another way to tell at a glance is if there is printing on the...
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michiganpat said:
sorry for digging up an almost 1 year old post, but I noticed my 30 year old orange box on my slant six duster leaking goo out the back, and I've had some drivability issues, so I was thinking about getting a new box, was going to get either a Standard Motor LX101 or a Napa Echlin ECH TP51. how did the Hi Rev work out on your slanty?
Click to expand...
Hi rev works fine, but my issue turned out to be the "new" plug wires I installed. New ish parts becoming an issue when the temperature changes.
 
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