Ignition question

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bignasty123

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Ok 318 with cam, mopar dis with orange box stock not recurved...when I put my timing light on the balancer where do I want to set timing. 10btdc? Any input would be nice I'm just slow on the tuning stuff I can wrench but timing I'm still new my race car is locked out so its easier..lol
 
Locked out? You mean there is no advance in the distributor at all? Set it where you think it makes power, IE 32--36 and see if it moves with change in RPM

If your balancer is not degreed, you'll either have to mark it, or else get a "dial up" timing light

I would start with the very basics..............Use a piston stop to check timing marks are right, measure around the balancer if not marked, and mark it out to at least 40 degrees

There's about a bullion thread here on this

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=230216

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158842


Also search for "Crackedback" posts on this
 
Everything is fresh balancer line is degreed, just wanted t know what people run on the balancer
 
Everything is fresh balancer line is degreed, just wanted t know what people run on the balancer

You must work for Microsoft. Even though your answer might have been technically correct, it really was not very helpful
 
As I read post #1, the "locked out" distributor is on a different car (his race car). In general, you want as much advance as possible, without pinging. That is how modern ignition systems work, they keep advancing (within limits) until the knock sensors says "back off", then creep up again. Most people find 15-20 deg initial advance best (w/ vacuum active). That is much higher than the factory spec.
 
i usually run my small blocks at 17 +/- initial and 35 total in at about 2200 rpm.


timing1.jpg

timing2.jpg

timing3.jpg

timing4.jpg
 
I just set my 318 in my ramcharger it was labor knocking under hard acceleration so I moved the timing down just a few degrees and bingo it quit labor knocking/pinking
Does that sound about right Bill ?
 
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