I'm 345 cubes closer to....

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kanders

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Well the decision is made, no more---stroker or standard stroke/hydraulic or solid cam/ roller or flat tappet/10/11/or 12:1 pistons. My 340 for the 71 Duster was unloaded off the truck yesterday and I'm thrilled. Turns out the fellow I bought the car from decided to sell the engine after all . Had it shipped north by transport truck and 4 days later I have a lot fewer decisions to make. Here's what it is. 1968 340 bored .030/forged pistons 10.7:1 compression/Milodon 9 quart oil pan/Milodon cam gear drive/Engle hydraulic cam intake 515 lift 276 dur- exh 535 lift 286 dur. / 1971 915 J heads 2.02 intake- 1.60 exhaust with mild porting with crane gold rockers. Was built a few years ago then sat. I,m buying an edelbrock torker intake from a FABO member which I believe will be a good match for this engine. Picking up hooker competition headers tomorrow. From some of the members feedback it sounds like a Holley 750 DP is a common choice for this type of setup. There's an MSD box on the fender of the car, I guess I'll have to find a distributor to match it. With this latest development there is a good chance I might be racing this summer still!! Any comments or advice on the induction or Ignition would be appreciated. I do believe 12.0 is within reach.Thanks so much for all the advice so far from the terrific FABO members. Kev :-D
 
I would take the whole engine apart and make sure everything was done right, retorque the rod and main bolts, lube everything up , check piston to valve, ect ect ect.... if its the newer torker II intake it should work fine, the older torker will be a bit down on power, you can just use a stock dist, recurved.
 
I would take the whole engine apart and make sure everything was done right, retorque the rod and main bolts, lube everything up , check piston to valve, ect ect ect.... if its the newer torker II intake it should work fine, the older torker will be a bit down on power, you can just use a stock dist, recurved.

I have 6 pages of build sheets from the builder with everything from ring gaps to valve to piston clearance to torque specs etc. but you're right. I'll be removing the pan and checking some torques/bearing clearances. The intake is an old torker but this is a work in progress, gotta leave something to improve for next year.
 
Sounds like a nice engine, remember to prime it, and verify oil to the rockers.
 
sounds like a good deal !

750 carb is a great starting point



dont go nuts on the distributor choice .

i run a used MP vac advance model that i re-curved with a Mallory kit. works great . mid 10's so far .
 
sounds like a good deal !

750 carb is a great starting point



dont go nuts on the distributor choice .

i run a used MP vac advance model that i re-curved with a Mallory kit. works great . mid 10's so far .

Good to know . I was puzzled about the fact it came with a brand new distributor but just a stock electronic pick up style with a vacuum advance. I thought it would need something more exotic. I've had a few members telling me to recurve the distributor but I guess I'll have to find someone locally to do that for me. Any suggestions on what to shoot for on this setup. I suppose it will depend on gearing/ max RPM etc. Advice always welcome.
 
Good to know . I was puzzled about the fact it came with a brand new distributor but just a stock electronic pick up style with a vacuum advance. I thought it would need something more exotic. I've had a few members telling me to recurve the distributor but I guess I'll have to find someone locally to do that for me. Any suggestions on what to shoot for on this setup. I suppose it will depend on gearing/ max RPM etc. Advice always welcome.

Here ya go :

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/29.html

This would apply to the Mallory built MP dist.

worked like a charm on mine.

your combo will determine the curve


if its not the MP/Mallory , you can weld up the advance slot and try different springs
 
Here ya go :

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/29.html

This would apply to the Mallory built MP dist.

worked like a charm on mine.

your combo will determine the curve


if its not the MP/Mallory , you can weld up the advance slot and try different springs

I wish I knew what brand of distibutor it was but there don't seem to be any markings on it. It looks like a quality piece and has a tan colored cap. I'll have a closer look for markings. Thanks for the link.
 
Is there a part # on it anywhere?


Try this- call up Mopar performance (if they even have a # anymore....)

give them a part # or detailed description of it.

Maybe someone can help on here - mine has STAR type lock screws inside (on the advance plates) --maybe this is an indicator ? i know my stock one had regular flat blade type screws....

??
 
Is there a part # on it anywhere?


Try this- call up Mopar performance (if they even have a # anymore....)

give them a part # or detailed description of it.

Maybe someone can help on here - mine has STAR type lock screws inside (on the advance plates) --maybe this is an indicator ? i know my stock one had regular flat blade type screws....

??

Will have to check it tomorrow. It's at my shop and I'm on my way to the Indy race today. I will let you know what I find out. Kev
 
Is there a part # on it anywhere?


Try this- call up Mopar performance (if they even have a # anymore....)

give them a part # or detailed description of it.

Maybe someone can help on here - mine has STAR type lock screws inside (on the advance plates) --maybe this is an indicator ? i know my stock one had regular flat blade type screws....

??
I rechecked the dist with a magnifying glass. OK I'm exaggerating, but I looked real carefully and could find no markings except UNI0210 on the pickup itself. Took some pics and will try and post my first pictures. If this works maybe someone could help identify it. Kev

dist1 (Small).JPG


IMG_2454 (Small).JPG
 
looks like Mopar performance or mopar replacement distributor.

Look inside to see if it has adjustable advance plates.

How deep would I have to go to see that? If I look from the top with the cap off, all I can see thats adjustable is the pickup airgap. To see anything farther down will require some disassembly.
 
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