IMportance of tortion bars

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KramerSwinger70

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as far as i know, only Mopars ever had tortion bars as part of the suspension. what exactly do they do? also, my /6 car is eventaully goin to have a 360 in it, what size torsion bars should i switch to? not looking for the top of the line, but i want this thing to handle as good as i can
 
Chevy Colorado's and Silverado's, Ford Ranger 4x4's, the rear suspension of early 00's Saturn SL's... lots of cars use Torsion, as they are an inexpensive and space saving...
 
as far as i know, only Mopars ever had tortion bars as part of the suspension. what exactly do they do? also, my /6 car is eventaully goin to have a 360 in it, what size torsion bars should i switch to? not looking for the top of the line, but i want this thing to handle as good as i can



they are your front springs. what bars you should use after the 360 goes in depends on what your intended use of the car is..

drag strip - keep the slant six bars in.
good in the turns - you want bigger. just suspension sells 1" bars at a good price.



oh my 87 d-50 pick-up had them as did my 93 dakota....lmao
 
Yes, they are your front springs. They work because they are under pressure from being twisted.
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread here.....but I have a question.
I have a 62 Valiant sedan...was a /6..... I will be puting in a 318/390 stroker....but it will have alloy heads and intake.....so will I still need to go to bigger t-bars???
It will have Pedders GSR shockies and a custom swaybar too ( f & r ).
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread here.....but I have a question.
I have a 62 Valiant sedan...was a /6..... I will be puting in a 318/390 stroker....but it will have alloy heads and intake.....so will I still need to go to bigger t-bars???
It will have Pedders GSR shockies and a custom swaybar too ( f & r ).



like i said it all depends on your intended use.
 
Factory mopars were WAAAAAY undersprung from the factory in the front, the torsion bar spring rates are pretty low. My suggestion would be that if you're planning to do any significant amount of street driving at all you should upgrade the torsion bars, regardless of any engine swaps. As Joe mentioned, drag racing is a whole different story. Keep in mind, when these cars were stock from the factory, their performance in acceleration,handling and braking was fairly well matched with all the other cars on the road. Now, although the acceleration may keep up with a V8, handling and braking does not, which means the majority of cars on the road will out-handle and out-brake a stock equipped A-body. That's probably not the place you want to be if you're driving your A-body a lot. You'll want to keep pace with everyone else, and you'll sure as hell want to stop when they do (suspension effects this too, not just the brakes).

The 1" bars from Just Suspension (or whichever vendor you prefer) are a good upgrade. The car will handle MUCH better, even without sway bars or other changes, and the ride quality will still be fine, even for a daily driver. Obviously better shocks and sway bars would improve things more.

Surprisingly enough, the specs that I've seen on the /6's and 273-340's is that the engine weight is pretty similar, to nearly identical, depending on who you get your info from. I've seen the slant 6's listed from 470 to 525 lbs and the 273-340's at ~525 lbs. 360's are little heavier, but only by about 25-30 lbs (550-555, depending on who you ask). So if you've been replacing cast iron with aluminum, the engine weight change might be pretty negligible.

But the change in horsepower will not be. Faster acceleration means more weight transfer. More power also means you'll be able to accelerate rapidly in places you couldn't before, like say, in corners. Or in between stop lights, which might also involve stopping faster from a higher speed than if you were pushing a /6, which means more dive on the front end if you're running soft torsion bars. Especially going from a /6 to a 390 with alloy heads, you'll be going from 100-150 hp to likely over 400!!! You need to upgrade the ENTIRE car, not just the engine. All that horsepower won't do you any good if you can't get it to the ground, or worse, control the car when you do put the power down.
 
International, Eldorado, Riviera, and Toronado models have torsion bars too......
 
Actually Porsche bragged about using them in the 80's. Indy cars, midgets, sprint cars all use them. The only difference between torsion bars and coil springs is that the coils are coiled. I know, shocking right? As for rate, 72bluNblu had a really nice write-up so I won't repeat it.

Cjh: If you are interested in performance handling, The stock rate will really hold you back. Just wondering, How much do those Pedders GSR shocks go for? I have been hearing a lot about Pedders lately.
 
alright i get it, mopars arnt the only ones to use em!

72blunblu, thanks for the info. very helpful. so what size do you suppose the /6 ones are that a 1" tortion bar would be good enogh? this car will be a driver, but i like takin turns hard. i just want to get the best handling and ride quality i can get without spending a rediculous amount of cash
 
Then get yourself the 1.0" torsion bars from just suspension...PST also came out with 1.03 Bars I think...Pick ur poison...
 


Yeah that...


  • .810" 90#/in p5249148 drag bars
  • .830" 100#/in (2535888-9) slant six bars
  • .850" 110#/in (2535890-1) slant six w/ air--318 w/o air )
  • .870" 120#/in p5249149 (2535892-3) 318 w/ air--340 std bars
  • .890" 130#/in p5249150 383 std bars
  • .920" 150#/in p5249151 h/d handling
  • .990" 200#/in p5249152 solo/road race
  • 1.040" 250#/in p5249153 h/d solo road race-oval track
  • 1.090" 300"/in p5249154 oval track 1/4 mi--optional 1/2 mi
  • 1.140" 300#/in p5249155 oval track 1/4 and 1/2 mile
The rates do vary a little by who makes them, I don't think Just Suspension actually lists a rate with theirs, Firm Feel http://www.firmfeel.com/a.htm lists their 1" bars at 195 lbs. Figure that most 1" bars are around 200 lbs/in, give or take a few pounds.

Yes, that's about double what the stock bars are, and yes, that will be just fine. Keep in mind that these cars were horribly undersprung even as equipped from the factory with tires that are practically hockey pucks compared to modern tire compounds. That means more forces transferred from the road to the suspension, which just multiplies the undersprung effect. I have 1.12" bars in my Challenger (from FFI, 270 lbs/in !!!) and think they're pretty awesome. The Challenger is obviously a bit heavier, even though its pretty stripped of options, but I still think it probably rides a little stiffer than an A-body with 1" bars.

I also have two pairs of 1" bars from JS so I can equip both of my Darts with them when they hit the road. Just Suspension still has them for $199, which is a steal. I think I bought them at intro price on eBay, which was a little over $150, which is why I just bough two sets. Personally, I wouldn't run anything less then .92" bars, even if my only plan was to cruise to car shows, but that's just me.
 
Actually Porsche bragged about using them in the 80's. Indy cars, midgets, sprint cars all use them. The only difference between torsion bars and coil springs is that the coils are coiled. I know, shocking right? As for rate, 72bluNblu had a really nice write-up so I won't repeat it.

Cjh: If you are interested in performance handling, The stock rate will really hold you back. Just wondering, How much do those Pedders GSR shocks go for? I have been hearing a lot about Pedders lately.

A mate of mine owns the Pedders francise here....so i'll get a good price. I also get my wheel-alignments there too, and get parts for cars there + w/alignments on Viet's cars that I do repairs/services on.
I wont use Pedders bushes though....they turn to powder. I only use SuperPro. http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/
 
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