Indy 360-2 230cnc oval Port

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Agreed, and that is the question. Where is a safe stock block limit? Also, where is the race blocks limit?
I can’t answer these questions. There is just not enough information out there. Who’s done it? Who’s still doing it? Who is planning for it?

The OP asked about combinations. That’s it really. Everyone’s concern with the block is a good concern considering the parts he is asking about. Those Indy heads can potentially make some serious steam. He hasn’t a plan on them, just questions on combinations.
I have not heard of a R3 block failure N/A.....there has been a couple issues I have heard of with power adder guys that are making over 2000 hp, in my opinion if you want to change set ups and use the Indy heads that is fine but they are capable of mid 700 hp N/A pretty straightforward without getting super crazy and if a person was only looking to generate 600 hp with them then I don't see how the price to make all that happen would justify the meager gains.
 
From Ryan’s (shadydale) website
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2,000 HP from a race block?

I have not heard of a R3 block failure N/A.....there has been a couple issues I have heard of with power adder guys that are making over 2000 hp, in my opinion if you want to change set ups and use the Indy heads that is fine but they are capable of mid 700 hp N/A pretty straightforward without getting super crazy and if a person was only looking to generate 600 hp with them then I don't see how the price to make all that happen would justify the meager gains.
 
My block didn’t fail, but it was flexing. I was wanting to step up the power but was afraid it would fail. It was never on a dyno but ran 6.57 @ 104 and change in a 3260# street/strip Dart.

Just because the block didn’t fail doesn’t mean it wasn’t past its capacity. When a block flexes what happens to cylinder bores? They go out of round and ring seal is compromised. Just something to think about.
 
Exactly Justin. That equals a 10.3/10.2 in the 1/4 mile?
 
Like I said this is what my stock block ran.
[email protected] mph
[email protected] mph shifting at 6700
And 10.10 in my sons car at 3200 pounds. No torque plate used ever and on its third rebuild I worn out two sets of stones on
The bores before I could brush hone it. Stock block are pretty strong. The one in my car now should be quicker as I upped the carb size and compression.
 
Awesome! Thanks! Small cam and lots of boost with great flowing parts.
 
OP is just wasting his time and efforts...........he is a water walker..........stock block was fine with what he was doing before but in his own admission he is addicted to having more power........with that said a real block is the first thing he should be looking for and if he can't justify that then stick with what you got.

Good Morning, a water walker.....what does that mean? Yeah, a stronger block would be nice for sure....did you find the limit on a stock block yet? Does that mean xxxHP, xxxtorque, xxxseconds in the quarter?
 
Thanks at all for the discussion. I´m aware that somewhere the stock parts do have their limits....but that´s not the point. Just thinking about possible combinations, what´s better than to discuss here? Over here (i´m german) i´m the guinea pig when it comes to what works and what not...that´s why i love FABO and the willingness of the members to share!

Michael
 
While the block may not be the discussion it has to be considered, because it's the foundation of the build.

A lot of guys will run a short fill to strengthen block. I've wondered if a mid-plate along with a front plate would eliminate block flex. Over the years I've only seen a couple factory blocks fail and both cracked a cylinder up and down and both were high hp n/a builds.

The 408 I mentioned was 10.8-1, 260/264° @ .050", .626/.633 flat solid, Edelbrock's that flowed in the mid 290's @ .650", 950HP on a deep ported Victor and 1 7/8" Hedman's. It liked being shifted at 64-6600, anything lower, or higher it would slow down. IMO it had plenty of cam but was running out of head.

The current 434 has a R1 block, ported 360-1's that flow low 300's, ported Indy intake, 1000+ 4150, 11.2-1, 266/271° @ .050", .711/.719" solid roller and the same 1 7/8" headers. It made peak power on the dyno at 6750 and has ran 6.25 @ 110 in the 1/8 at 3292#, it only ran 10.00 @ almost 135 in the 1/4. I normally shift it around 7200, however on the 6.25 the 1-2 shift was 7800, don't ask me how I did it. :realcrazy:

This is not really a good comparison, but it does show that even though second engine is 26" larger, with better heads (and cam) it makes peak power at higher rpms. If the 408 had the top end off the 434 I'd guess it would make peak power around 7500 rpms, if the cam could support it. Add the SR out of the 434 and it may be near 8k.

This and $1.75 will buy a cup of coffee in some places.
 
thanks for your feedback Justin!

that´s true, the block is always the foundation. I really do not know where the peak power is now (no dyno time yet), but when i race i try to shift it at 6000rpms all the time to be more consistent. I´d not expect the engine to peak higher with a cylinder head change....of course another (obviously W2 intake then) could change the characteristics a bit.

Regarding the coffee: if you ever stop by at my place, you´ll get a cup of coffee for free ;-)
 
Free coffee in Germany?!?!

Can I stop by???
 
For most guys a 230cc 360-1 or 360-2 on a .030 (360-340) stroker or non stroker with a .620 roller, .650 solid cam would put a smile on their face. Of coarse good rods and the usual upgrades would easily run high 9’s or whatever ET you picked and run for years.
 
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