Indy heads single water crossover /single plane manifold.
- Thread starter Texas Red
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dodgedifferent2
Well-Known Member
I have that intake on my 418 w5's but I have the bypass hose hooked up.
I don't recall drilling and tapping the hole, but i do remember taking the pipe from another intake manifold
I don't recall drilling and tapping the hole, but i do remember taking the pipe from another intake manifold
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If it’s not all in at 36 until 5500 I bet that thing gets terrible mileage and builds a ton of heat driving 2200 rpm with like 24 degrees in it. You need to limit the mechanical timing, bump up the initial to where the engine wants it, and re curve the distributor to bring the all in timing in sooner. 3000 rpm would be late. 5500 is ridiculously late.
I am always learning..... and I will be the first to tell you that I don't know it all and learn something new each and everyday. Thanks to everyone for their input. Timing is everything! Its the small technical things that make the difference in overall performance, mileage and overall drivability. I am going to look up some info from Lee Shepard on this.....
I would have to take the manifold back off and drill & Tap it. Not that big a deal but something to look at getting done as this supplies a spill back for the water pump until the thermostat opens otherwise the water pump is deadheaded yes I get it .
I would have to take the manifold back off and drill & Tap it. Not that big a deal but something to look at getting done as this supplies a spill back for the water pump until the thermostat opens otherwise the water pump is deadheaded yes I get it .
justinp61
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I drilled and tapped mine in the car.
PRH
Well-Known Member
The bypass is only needed if you’re running a T-stat.
You could pull the stat...... no bypass needed.
Or you can drill like 6-8, 1/4” holes in the t-stat flange to let coolant flow past/though before it opens.
Yes, it will take longer to reach operating temp.
The plus side is that when open, all the coolant passes through the radiator, instead of a portion of it being recirculated back into the engine without making a trip through the radiator.
Not all stats will accommodate the drill mod.
It needs to be the type with the wide flat flange.
It also obviously increases the overall flow capacity.
As mentioned, the timing situation really needs to be addressed.
You could pull the stat...... no bypass needed.
Or you can drill like 6-8, 1/4” holes in the t-stat flange to let coolant flow past/though before it opens.
Yes, it will take longer to reach operating temp.
The plus side is that when open, all the coolant passes through the radiator, instead of a portion of it being recirculated back into the engine without making a trip through the radiator.
Not all stats will accommodate the drill mod.
It needs to be the type with the wide flat flange.
It also obviously increases the overall flow capacity.
As mentioned, the timing situation really needs to be addressed.
Last edited:
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Never saw your response to post #25
We cant help you if you dont respond
We cant help you if you dont respond
512 Stroker said ..........Gett'n hot at highway speeds is a coolant flow issue for sure, as you have all the air you want at higher speeds.
You need to take a serious look at your water pump drive ratio.
Let me guess you have an overdrive transmission?
Stroker......No over drive trans......Sportsman 727 ....5 clutches, aluminum billet drum built by Dave Smith at Pro trans in Waco TX. Trans cooler out front of radiator.. Hughes performance 2500 RPM stall converter, Hughes flex plate, ARP Bolts.....
turned out that the distributor hold down clamp was not tightened up and timing had moved. Got timing back to 10 to 12 degrees initial..... and car is responding much better.... temperatures much better......... I have done give away ALL my spare water pump pulleys, crank pulleys.......... But that does not surprise me.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING! Yes I screwed up on the centrifugal springs.....2 light silver springs will replace the heavy ones....... Timing needs to be all (Locked out for race engines) in for race engines..... But my car is a street car and consulting MSD I can plot my own curves on my 6AL2. I will be choosing all in at 2500 RPM..... to start with. Its a shot in the dark without a distributor machine when you make changes anyway......but that should put the timing all in about 2500 to 2800 RPM...... After looking at the timing curves I understand now where I screwed up.... I will fix it...that info is welded in ......
I have built bunches of cars through the years even working for a shop that produced pavement and dirt car chassis .......but when it came to the engine compartment and all the MSDs, Holley carbs, engine tuning, changes etc.....I was always pushed back to the welding end...... install this rear end housing .....no go do this over here....
No I will be the first to tell any of you that this high level car (no expense spared) has been built solely by me and will be tuned by me ....I reference to my Larry Sheppard books and the books he has written in the past as Larry was one of the very best to ever start an engine. His race records speak for themselves.
What is the correct water pump ratio for a LA engine? Then there is the fact that some water pumps have 6 blade rotors, some have 8 blade rotors, Some have a backing plate on the rotor...... Yes I realize its my job to understand what I have and I will get to the bottom of it and solve the puzzle.... Got a 63 MM Stant USA Made gutted thermostat in the water neck now as I am still testing some things trying to make what I have work.
Did I mention that this whole brand new build has a whopping 250 miles on it! Things are coming together... I am going to Snapka's drive in tonight for car night.
Signed....Constantly learning........ constantly taking in what info I have coming at me, constantly thankful for all the years of experience being poured at me, forever thankful for everyone's input, part numbers, ideas. I promise it is NOT taken lightly.......
Have a blessed weekend
Rome was built in a day and It would not have been finished if you were running that job either .... NO it would have not......LOL
You need to take a serious look at your water pump drive ratio.
Let me guess you have an overdrive transmission?
Stroker......No over drive trans......Sportsman 727 ....5 clutches, aluminum billet drum built by Dave Smith at Pro trans in Waco TX. Trans cooler out front of radiator.. Hughes performance 2500 RPM stall converter, Hughes flex plate, ARP Bolts.....
turned out that the distributor hold down clamp was not tightened up and timing had moved. Got timing back to 10 to 12 degrees initial..... and car is responding much better.... temperatures much better......... I have done give away ALL my spare water pump pulleys, crank pulleys.......... But that does not surprise me.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING! Yes I screwed up on the centrifugal springs.....2 light silver springs will replace the heavy ones....... Timing needs to be all (Locked out for race engines) in for race engines..... But my car is a street car and consulting MSD I can plot my own curves on my 6AL2. I will be choosing all in at 2500 RPM..... to start with. Its a shot in the dark without a distributor machine when you make changes anyway......but that should put the timing all in about 2500 to 2800 RPM...... After looking at the timing curves I understand now where I screwed up.... I will fix it...that info is welded in ......
I have built bunches of cars through the years even working for a shop that produced pavement and dirt car chassis .......but when it came to the engine compartment and all the MSDs, Holley carbs, engine tuning, changes etc.....I was always pushed back to the welding end...... install this rear end housing .....no go do this over here....
No I will be the first to tell any of you that this high level car (no expense spared) has been built solely by me and will be tuned by me ....I reference to my Larry Sheppard books and the books he has written in the past as Larry was one of the very best to ever start an engine. His race records speak for themselves.
What is the correct water pump ratio for a LA engine? Then there is the fact that some water pumps have 6 blade rotors, some have 8 blade rotors, Some have a backing plate on the rotor...... Yes I realize its my job to understand what I have and I will get to the bottom of it and solve the puzzle.... Got a 63 MM Stant USA Made gutted thermostat in the water neck now as I am still testing some things trying to make what I have work.
Did I mention that this whole brand new build has a whopping 250 miles on it! Things are coming together... I am going to Snapka's drive in tonight for car night.
Signed....Constantly learning........ constantly taking in what info I have coming at me, constantly thankful for all the years of experience being poured at me, forever thankful for everyone's input, part numbers, ideas. I promise it is NOT taken lightly.......
Have a blessed weekend
Rome was built in a day and It would not have been finished if you were running that job either .... NO it would have not......LOL
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Shoot for a 10 - 15% water pump over drive, that will make a noticeable difference.
Ditch the gutted T stat and get a real 180* high flow stat, I have had very good luck with stats produced by Stewart.
Happy motoring
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