Info on FBO ecu unit

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Plus, you don't have 12:1 compression. That's when you need a bunch more spark. The stock Mopar system is fine. Even in the upper compression ranges, just add a hotter ECU. Problem solved. I just don't have the hard on for the HEI a lot of guys do. It's just not necessary.
Yup. I was replacing a very worn out points distributor and had an old electronic and had an hei module. Made the bracket and mounted it underneath. No money spent and it works flawlessly
 
Yup. I was replacing a very worn out points distributor and had an old electronic and had an hei module. Made the bracket and mounted it underneath. No money spent and it works flawlessly
Not a thing wrong with using what you have. That in and of itself right there is the ONLY reason I put Mopar electronic ignition on Vixen. I had it all. So I curved the distributor and installed everything. I did get the Hi Rev 7500 box a little later.
 
heat is caused by current flow in the coil.
they are deisgned to deal with it.
so in a situation where the coil and module that runs it, are matched some what
or so time was taken to set points gap (basically dwell)
you won't be far off when running, and the coil should not get excessivly hot.
It may be too hot to touch but it won't be oozing oil and bulgeing i.e over heated

if you were to run an 8 volt coil at 12 volt you might have a problem the coil won't last long

current casues heat, so on an HEI set up, i like to make sure that my coil energy is biased a bit towards higher voltage. i want to run it as standard as possible

high voltage tends to go hand in hand with shorter and lower current flow and a slightly shorter spark.
hence i make my spark plug gaps 40 45 thou which fits with the spec. higher voltage spark with a reduced current flow.

smaller gap produces a spark at a lower voltage and consequntly a higher current flows for a longer period and that heats up the coil and can burn out the centre contact in the cap.

Dave
 
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Dave,
You make some good points [ pardon the pun ].
However I do not agree with all of them.
Honda made an engine in the 1980s [ the name escapes me ] that had a separate mini combustion chamber next to the main chamber. The mini chamber was ignited & the flame travelled through a small gap to ignite the mixture in the main chamber. The theory being...you want as a big a 'flame' as you can get....
The trade off of a smaller spark plug gap providing increased current is that less of the combustible mixture is then exposed for ignition of the mixture to take place.
Ign systems are full of compromises, eg, more inductance in the pri winding means more energy available to transfer to the sec winding & ultimately more spark energy. But more pri inductance means a longer time to saturate the winding, & could lead to misfires at high rpms &/or when a coil has to fire a lot of cylinders.
 
@Bewy Hondas engine was the CVCC it stood for compound vortex controlled combustion.
 
TT,
Thanks for that. I knew the letters C & V were involved but sure of the sequence!
 
Honda Civic?
Yeah. The Civic CVCC. It was a Civic model all its own. Tiny little fecker.
Not too tiny that you caint stick a 440 in it. lol
 
I thought it was Constant Velocity Combustion Chamber? No matter, those little motors sung and ran great. We had a 2 speed automatic CVCC and you just mashed on the gas and it went...so simple. And it always started right up. Honda did alot of things right.
 
In 1977 I traded my Duster w/ 340 for a new Honda Accord. It had the CVCC engine in it, it was amazing. 40 MPG all day, ran like a top, would start in -40 weather. It also met all the pollution laws of the day on regular gas, no converter. I loved that car, kept it until babies came. I missed the Duster, but that Honda was an amazing machine incredibly well engineered, here is an example in about 1981 both low beam headlights died within a week. I ran on the high beams for 6 months or so, then they both died. Replaced them all, no problems. Of course now that I’m old, I didn’t go get a Honda to play with, but there is a Duster sitting in the garage to play with…….
 
So true its worth double posting!

Look at the race results and mpg cars obtained with the mighty power of points. With a correct curve and good engine design the spark to get a flame kernal to allow combustion doesn't need to be some super duper fireworks show.

and I've posted this before but I'll do it again. For racing at higher rpm the right curve for an electronic ignition has to take into account the slew rate. Long before internet my coworker who had been running stock eliminator had learned this the hard way when he removed the secondary spring from the Direct Connection tach drive distributor.
Tuner described the same lesson here except it was with a GM.

"A-B-A-B it was faster with the GM dual-points distributor, even though the spark energy was higher with the electronic, a GM Magna-Pulse, and the electronic had the same “curve” except for the retard after the “total” was reached at 2500. Jenkins book “The Small Block Chevrolet Racing Engine” details the high-RPM curve and explains his reasoning"

Yup. Points will always out power an electronic ignition if you don’t account for the inherent retard that comes with them.
 
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