Inland shifter rods versus Hurst - a difference?

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I never has a problem with the rods once correctly adjusted the only mushiness in the shifter is from the rubber bushings for mounting the shifter handle to the mechanism, I replaced them with some spacers and never had problems again.
 
I've always been a pedal car man. My '68 Hemi Roadrunner came new with an Inland shifter and it just didn't cut it in that car. I replaced it with a Hurst Competition Plus and it gave a more solid positive feel and a shorter throw. With the Inland, my fist would hit the dash on hard power shifts. A big advantage of the Hurst is the "syncro-lock" feature. These are two bolts with jamb nuts on the front and rear of the shifter housing. They allow limiting the distance the shift rods travel, thereby preventing over ramming the the shift ears. Over ramming was the biggest cause of broken shift forks and split blockers. The Hurst Super Shifter is the best for me. It uses a short stick and a special mounting plate. The mounting plate allows the shifter rods to run straighter and more parallel to the ground and the rods are reinforced. My friend Ronnie Sox wouldn't be without one of these! I have one in my Pro Street Demon just like we used in those Pro Stock cars back in the day with a built-in reverse lock-out handle. It gives a very short throw.
An Inland shifter I like is one that I got out of an Aspen and it was on a 833 OD tranny. I have restored it. It is a bench seat model and has a built in reverse lock-out. You have to push down on the handle to get into reverse. These shifters are often found with RUBBER grommets at the shift rod mounting holes and you know that ain't good! They can be modified to accept either the Hurst metal bushings or the nylon ones.
If you are serious with a mixing stick in a pedal car, get a good Hurst!! Inlands are for restorers!
Pat
 
My Barracuda had a factory inland shifter which I replaced with a factory Hurst shifter from a 68 Dart. The Inland shift rods work fine with the Hurst. An aftermarket Hurst may be a different story.
 
PFogel said:
I've always been a pedal car man. My '68 Hemi Roadrunner came new with an Inland shifter and it just didn't cut it in that car. I replaced it with a Hurst Competition Plus and it gave a more solid positive feel and a shorter throw. With the Inland, my fist would hit the dash on hard power shifts. A big advantage of the Hurst is the "syncro-lock" feature. These are two bolts with jamb nuts on the front and rear of the shifter housing. They allow limiting the distance the shift rods travel, thereby preventing over ramming the the shift ears. Over ramming was the biggest cause of broken shift forks and split blockers. The Hurst Super Shifter is the best for me. It uses a short stick and a special mounting plate. The mounting plate allows the shifter rods to run straighter and more parallel to the ground and the rods are reinforced. My friend Ronnie Sox wouldn't be without one of these! I have one in my Pro Street Demon just like we used in those Pro Stock cars back in the day with a built-in reverse lock-out handle. It gives a very short throw.
An Inland shifter I like is one that I got out of an Aspen and it was on a 833 OD tranny. I have restored it. It is a bench seat model and has a built in reverse lock-out. You have to push down on the handle to get into reverse. These shifters are often found with RUBBER grommets at the shift rod mounting holes and you know that ain't good! They can be modified to accept either the Hurst metal bushings or the nylon ones.
If you are serious with a mixing stick in a pedal car, get a good Hurst!! Inlands are for restorers!
Pat
Click to expand...

Those old race Supershifters (not the "street Supershifter") are nice units. They mount the shifter up and back from the original position in order to run the shift rods straight. How much of your transmission tunnel hump did you have to cut out? I got to crawl around inside Ronnie Sox '67 car while it was being restored, and he cut the hump in half, losing the entire rear of the hump. The shifter literally came out of the tunnel and was inside the car. Those shifters were even stronger than the Comp+. I've got an original one from another restoration....just can't bring myself to cut a perfectly good 4-speed hump in half to mount the thing.
 
I have both my stock Inland and a full Hurst comp plus setup (The Comp plus only has about 300 miles of use on it) and have used both.

The Inland is not as bad as everyone says for normal street use. Normal being normal driving form point A to point B, but its not something you want to rely on for precision use, like at the track.

The Hurst is without question a better shifter.

At this time the Hurst is on the shelf and the Inland is in the car simply because the Inland looks so cool..
 
I only cut what was necessary. I didn't get to know Ronnie until '68 and I never had any experience with the '67 car. I remember when Ronnie and Jake installed a verti-gate shifter and Ronnie didn't like any big holes. It basically fit like the Super Shifter with lock out. Ronnie didn't like it at all! He felt like he had to fight it to get it back in first gear. He loved that old Super Shifter!
Pat
 
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