Installing ignition relay

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Once you do a bypass, you need to have a fuse/ link in the charging line. It is a very iffy thing because there is so much in these cars that are underfused. You need a fuse / link large enough that the alternator charge current does not blow it, yet small enough to protect. The "root" answer is that the wiring was never large enough to start with.
 
I have a fuse link in my charging line, that’s an 8 gauge wire with a 12 gauge fusible link.

What I’m wondering about is protecting the original factory circuit, which presently is “protected” only on one side and only by the factory fusible link.

Should I add in line fuses to each of the red and black wires in the engine compartment? If so, what amperage?

Even with the relays I have installed I’m pretty sure all of the wiring coming into the car is unprotected (except for the factory fusible link) powering the fuse box and accessories and including all of my under dash wiring.

BTW, aside from my stereo and amplifiers, which are protected and wired independently of factory wiring, I have added no other electrical components. Rear window defogger system has been removed.
 
You can buy re-settable circuit breakers, 60,80,100 amp etc that you can use. After the fault is removed, they reset. This is what I use.
 
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Here are a couple of install pics, still need to tidy up the wrap
 
Final install pics. I didn’t need to cut the harness at all, except to replace the ignition wire from a male to female quick connect.

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A few weeks in I’m happy with this install. I think it has improved the charging system overall. Everything seems more stable, no flickering. Recall I also have headlight relays. Still notice a little bit of a drop when the alternator is turning at low RPM, but not much. Voltage runs at a steady 14.6.
 
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