Installing new shocks questions/tips???

[fourandahalf]

Hello, I have a 70 swinger with a 318. I got her due to my love of old mopars and because I'd like to have a car that I can do repairs on myself.

I have some basic mechanical skills, but want to learn more and the only way is hands on!!

This week I'll be replacing the shocks front and rear. It seems like a pretty straight forward and easy thing to start getting my hands dirty with. I don't forsee any major problems but never having done it before I was wondering if any of you guys with more experience might have any tips or pointers on how to make it go smoother or any particular problem areas that I should be keeping my eyes open for.

Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.

 

[slantsixdan]

Hello, I have a 70 swinger with a 318. I got her due to my love of old mopars and because I'd like to have a car that I can do repairs on myself.

Welcome here. Your '70 Swinger is an excellent choice for that.

I have some basic mechanical skills, but want to learn more and the only way is hands on!!

Aided and assisted by new knowledge. Get the three books (all three of them) described in this thread as quickly as you can.

This week I'll be replacing the shocks front and rear. It seems like a pretty straight forward and easy thing to start getting my hands dirty with.

It is.

tips or pointers on how to make it go smoother or any particular problem areas that I should be keeping my eyes open for.

Think twice about every decision you make, and if something doesn't seem to be working, stop and rethink. Shock replacement is really a remove/replace operation without many special tricks. If the car is rusty, be prepared to struggle with frozen nuts and bolts.

 

['64 Cuda]

On the rear you might run into a problem with the steel bushings being rusted/frozen onto the mounting studs of the car. If so, use penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster), vise grips, chisel, channel locks, heat or whatever means is necessary to get them off. Some grease or anti-sieze on the studs to prevent the new ones from doing the same thing can make things easier when/if the time comes to change the shocks in the future.

 

[rrvolare]

Are the front tops exposed ... if so ... install a deep socket and long extension and bend the top of shock back and forth till top of shock stud breaks off ....

 

[yellowdartdave]

Are the front tops exposed ... if so ... install a deep socket and long extension and bend the top of shock back and forth till top of shock stud breaks off ....

Or, if you are lucky to own a compressor and an air gun, it is much easier !!

 

[fourandahalf]

Thank you for the tips and replies.

I did the front yesterday and the rear today. It was almost to simple. Lol
no rusted bolts to deal with. They broke free with a wrench and then came off by hand after. All in all it took me about an hour. It was a good way to get my hands dirty and build some confidence.

Breaks are next. Thanks again for being helpful and not teasing the new guys.

 

[ElFin]

Safety is #1. Always use at least 2 jackstands, and make sure the car is stable before getting under it. When you're working on brakes, don't push down the pedal when the brakes are apart, or you'll pull in air through the wheel cylinders.

 

[2 Darts]

Breaks are next. Thanks again for being helpful and not teasing the new guys.

No point served in doing that. All of us were newbies at some point. I'm glad that you want to learn and that you've come here for a little schooling.

Definitely use jackstands when working under a lifted car. Suggest that you lift the entire rear of the car when doing the rear brakes. Pull both drums off, but only work on one side at a time. The other side is a reference for the inevitable WTF does this go question.

Same deal on the fronts if they are drums. If disks, remember to leave the calipers on the car until after you retract the piston(s) into the caliper before removing the caliper. Finish the job on one side and at least get the caliper with new linings over the disk before going to the other side.