Instrument Cluster Circuit Board Fix

[weldedrail]

I broke all of the pins off on the drivers side circuit board while pulling my instrument cluster on my 1970 Dart Swinger. This seems like a common problem as this is a poor design at best. Fourtunately you can get aftermarket boards (at about $100 each), or used somewhat cheaper. I opted to fix mine with a little solder.

My solder skills are avarage at best, however if you use good solder, flux, and a steady couple of hands you can save some $$$.



Here is my fix.

First I added a dab of flux to the board and then the broken end of the pin.

Then I tinned the tip of the soldering iron and transfered the solder to the board, and then the broken pin while holding the pin with tweasers.

Then I reheated the solder on the board and quickly placed the pin with the tweasers, and then placed the tip of the iron where the pin met the board, straightening it up with the tweasers. (Takes a little paitence and practice).

Repeat for each pin.

Then I flipped the board and added solder from the back for added strength. A wet paper towel as a heat sink helps to hold the pins in place from the front while you solder the back of the board. I also added a strip of electrical tape to the back of the board for added insulation just in case.

Here is the end result.

 

[matthon]

When I fixed mine I also put 2 lengths of solder into the pins from the back, then heated the pins from the front, pins pointed down, which fills the pins making them stronger and the bond to the board better.

 

[weldedrail]

I just installed the cluster back in tonight and everything seems to work better than I can remember it, except for the headlight switch. The dimmer spring came apart and I put it back in place but it is a little touchey, probablly need to grab a replacement sometime. As for the guages, the fuel guage hasen't worked in years and there hasn't been any guage lights since who knows when. Nice to see the fuel level again and have light to read the guages. As for the speedo I am having an issue finding a cable locally that will fit my transmission, may have to order a re-po one online for 4 times the price of the local parts store but at least that will be another problem solved.

 

[weldedrail]

When I fixed mine I also put 2 lengths of solder into the pins from the back, then heated the pins from the front, pins pointed down, which fills the pins making them stronger and the bond to the board better.

I thought of that too but I was afraid of getting too much solder in play as I was worried it would flood the board and cause a short. Flux really helps keep the solder were you want it.

 

[ESP47]

I'm just getting red x's instead of pics:toothy10:

 

[schreecher]

I did the same thing with the solder, and then actually soldered a wire directly to the pin. I ditched the plastic factory connector with all the holes for the pins. I bought an aftermarket 12 pin connector that I can take apart when I want to remove the gauge cluster. Works real well.

 

[matthon]

That's a good idea. I had searched for a pin to replace the stock ones that had a connector on one end, and I was going to connect each wire separately.
The wires, other than the ones for the lights, could be connected directly to the stud/nut.
If I could think of a way to connect to the lights w/o the pins that would be nice.
Your after market connector must be in a better location too, easier to reach I would imagine.

 

[weldedrail]

Soldering each wire to the board and then an aftermarket connector was going to be my next move had this not worked, so far its holding up well.

 

[schreecher]

Yes, I gave myself a little bit extra length, so I can actually lower the steering wheel (easy) and tilt the cluster down, pull the connector, take off the red and black power wires that are nutted on to the cluster and it comes out. I used to stress out about taking the thing cluster out, but now it is not too big of a deal. I would still rather drive the car than work on it.....