Instrument cluster question

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Caberocks

Caberocks

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Sorry, for all the questions, but I'm trying to prepare for replacing dash pad, instrument cluster, console bezel etc... I searched through the forum and couldn't the exact answer I was looking for. Here is my question. How many connections are on the back of my instrument cluster? I know the speedometer cable, and the big connector where the light switch is. Are there others? Does anything connect to the small circle of pins? Also, is the thing that connects to the light switch easy to remove? Is it just one connector? The are a bunch of connections there, I'm hoping they aren't all separate and I have to figure out how to get them all back on correctly. And the speedometer connection...I have reached back and felt it, does it screw off? Thanks for any help.

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Yes there's a plug from the wiring harness that plugs on the circle of pins
 
The speedo cable has a tab you you squeeze in and it pulls out. The connections on the light switch are not all separate there should be two connectors(if I remember correctly)for the light switch that will only plug in one way.
 
Thanks! This is very helpful! The plug that goes on the circle of pins, any tips for removing it? I assume it only goes on one way.
 
The round plug just pulls straight off. If you look at the pic there's a hole in the board in the center of the pins it looks like a key hole the round plug will only plug on one way.
 
You can do it. The last connections are the amp gauge they are the two studs to the far right in the pic.
Be sure to disconnect the battery before you start.
 
My current amp gauge in the cluster Im using now doesn't move, instead there is a small cluster of custom gauges under the dash and one does voltage, so I'm thinking these might not be connected.
 
A lot of guys bypass the amp gauge because they have been known to create meltdowns and fires when they fail. Also to make the light switch an easier task push in the small button on the backside of the switch this allows the pull knob to be removed then remove the nut on the front side of the switch and pull the switch out of the cluster so it can be unplugged after the cluster is removed.
 
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Better spray down the pins on the round plug with a little wd-40!! They are known to stick inside the wire and pull right out of the circuit board!
 
Thanks! Good thing is I'm replacing the cluster, so if I break a pin on the old one it won't be so bad.
 
It makes it a lot easier to remove the bolts that hold the steering column up when removing it. It will allow the column to drop a few inches and prevent any damage to your wiring/instrument panel during removal/installation. I'd also suggest changing all the bulbs out while you're in there and make sure the contacts on the bulb sockets are making good contact with the circuit board. You can bend them out a bit to make a better connection.
 
Caberocks said:
Sorry, for all the questions, but I'm trying to prepare for replacing dash pad, instrument cluster, console bezel etc... I searched through the forum and couldn't the exact answer I was looking for. Here is my question. How many connections are on the back of my instrument cluster? I know the speedometer cable, and the big connector where the light switch is. Are there others? Does anything connect to the small circle of pins? Also, is the thing that connects to the light switch easy to remove? Is it just one connector? The are a bunch of connections there, I'm hoping they aren't all separate and I have to figure out how to get them all back on correctly. And the speedometer connection...I have reached back and felt it, does it screw off? Thanks for any help.

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Anyone have a diagram for the round plug on the back. I am replacing the dash and using aftermarket gauges. 1973 Dodge Dart Sport. Thanks
 
On my 69 Barracuda. I removed the fuel gauge and made the factory voltage limiter inside non functional. I bought the RTE IVR and mounted it here. Works great. If you look at the picture I bent one of the contact arms back so it does not make contact any longer. I ditched the condenser as shown. The RTE IVR is solid state.

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