Instrument Cluster Removal, Help!

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Lenny_Winkle

Lenny_Winkle

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Hi All,

So, I've been battling with the instrument cluster in my 67 Dart for most of the day today... I've read through all I can find on gauge removal, and I've followed all the instructions... Speedo cable detached, wires detached from cluster, steering column bolts loosened/dropped down, trim screws removed, etc. etc. All with no avail! The cluster will pull out a couple inches, then just gets stuck. :banghead:

Does anyone have any secret tips/tricks that might help?

Also, in the same vein, any tricks for getting the heater control "knobs" off to free the center dash trim?


Thank you all in advance!!!
 
First make SURE you have the battery unhooked. The ammeter connections are "right there" easy to short, and no fuse, 'cept for the fuse link

You already have the speedo cable off, ?? ALL ?? the screws out, and the column dropped down.

It just might be that the wiring harness in your particular car has not much slack. Be careful, there are two connectors on the PC board for the harness to the cluster.

You fold it "down" before pulling it out very much, it's sort of L shaped, and the speedo hangs down below the bottom edge of the dash opening.
 
Also make sure you remove the headlight switch. There are tiny allen screws on the bottom of the sliders on the heat control.

Grant
 
Lenny_Winkle said:
Hi All,
Also, in the same vein, any tricks for getting the heater control "knobs" off to free the center dash trim?
Thank you all in advance!!!
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure there's an allen screw on the underneath of those little chrome knobs.
 
I think it's also easier to remove the steering column,or at least loosen it up so it will drop down some.
 
I have found that removing one screw holding the fuse box in place then setting the fuse box out of and behind its hanger provides access to the release button on the headlight switch. Remove that stem and the bezel nut. Push the headlight switch out of the bezel. I dont need to screw with the harness connector on the head light switch and I have a nice size opening to get my hands to panle harness connectors, speedo cable, etc.. I leave the wiper switch connected and in the dash too. Good luck
 
67Dart273 said:
First make SURE you have the battery unhooked. The ammeter connections are "right there" easy to short, and no fuse, 'cept for the fuse link

You already have the speedo cable off, ?? ALL ?? the screws out, and the column dropped down.

It just might be that the wiring harness in your particular car has not much slack. Be careful, there are two connectors on the PC board for the harness to the cluster.

You fold it "down" before pulling it out very much, it's sort of L shaped, and the speedo hangs down below the bottom edge of the dash opening.
Click to expand...


Copy copy, the battery is disconnected, I double checked the screws and they're all out, and I removed the three bolts from the steering column nearest the dash, which gives me about 2" to move the column around. I'm thinking you're right about the wiring harness being tight, I'm going to play around with that a little tomorrow to try to get more slack... Wish me luck, and THANK YOU for the tips!



6pk2goDemon said:
I'm pretty sure there's an allen screw on the underneath of those little chrome knobs.
Click to expand...

Ah HA! That makes sense, I didn't notice those earlier.


Thank you all for your quick and helpful posts! I don't know what I'd do without FABO


And now for your viewing pleasure, my earlier failed efforts :D :
 

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I fought with one for about 2 hours one day. I had everything removed and unhooked as mentioned in the above posts and still couldn't tip the top out enough for it to clear the dash frame. I couldn't see or feel anything that was causing the problem. :banghead: I finally left it for awhile and went back to it. I then discovered the reason it wouldn't tip out at the top.....the end of the speedo was catching on the main wire harness just enough to keep it from clearing. Reached back there and 'unhooked' the harness from the speedo end and the cluster nearly fell out.
Dallas
 
By the way, If this is a cloumn shift car, move the shifter to neutral or lower. A lot of downward force on the column while the shifter is in park can alter the neutral safety switch/linkage adjustment. The only way to correct that would be crawl under the car.
 
Its been a long time since I removed mine. I do remember removing the steering wheel. It made things so much easier.
 
MOBodyman said:
I fought with one for about 2 hours one day. I had everything removed and unhooked as mentioned in the above posts and still couldn't tip the top out enough for it to clear the dash frame. I couldn't see or feel anything that was causing the problem. :banghead: I finally left it for awhile and went back to it. I then discovered the reason it wouldn't tip out at the top.....the end of the speedo was catching on the main wire harness just enough to keep it from clearing. Reached back there and 'unhooked' the harness from the speedo end and the cluster nearly fell out.
Dallas
Click to expand...

Good for you! Since I'll be taking out the instrument panel in my Barracuda for the first time this winter, I'm curious about the wiring harness plug(s?) that attach to the panel. Does the plug just pull straight out or does it have a lock that must be released? Require a twist to remove/install?
 
yarcraft91 said:
Good for you! Since I'll be taking out the instrument panel in my Barracuda for the first time this winter, I'm curious about the wiring harness plug(s?) that attach to the panel. Does the plug just pull straight out or does it have a lock that must be released? Require a twist to remove/install?
Click to expand...

Do not twist or bend on those connectors. Pull straight away.
I have a tapered plastic tool that was once a shrimp deveining tool from the grocery store. I first wrap a round of electrical tape around the connector. This keeps the female terminals routed through the correct ports even if a few stay on the male pin as the connector moves away. I use the forementioned tool working around the connector to gently pry it away.
Other little tips that may herlp... I use white electrical tape and leave it on there. Makes the terminals easier to see when reinstalling.The round connector is keyed to attach only one way. The flat one with 3 connectors can be the most difficult to re-attach properly. There are several ways to put it on wrong. If you'll wrap a narrow strip of tape around those 3 male pins it will identify the line/amgle.
Apply some di-lectric lubricant to all those male pins.
Take note of where the red wire connects to the amp gauge before removing or better yet flag that post with tape temporarily while the panel is out. Yes that terminal is labeled 'RED" on the board but you can't see that during R&R.
Due to back problems I can no longer work from under the dash. I've had to learn how to remove the panel while sitting in the seats and nealing at the door jamb. I cant work hard so I work smart :)
Hope this helps
 
Something I found when removing my instrument cluster was the ignition switch would hang on the lower edge of the dash hole. I don't know if it applies in this case but it is a pain because there are L shaped latches at the top and the catch at the bottom.
 
Your picture reminds me of all the time I spent working at the C/P dealership in that same postion.

They called me 'weasel'.
 
I thought you said you dropped the column......

attachment.php
 
Take your seat out before you slip a disc man.

4 bolts and your life will be so much easier.

Mop
 
MOBodyman said:
I fought with one for about 2 hours one day. I had everything removed and unhooked as mentioned in the above posts and still couldn't tip the top out enough for it to clear the dash frame. I couldn't see or feel anything that was causing the problem. :banghead: I finally left it for awhile and went back to it. I then discovered the reason it wouldn't tip out at the top.....the end of the speedo was catching on the main wire harness just enough to keep it from clearing. Reached back there and 'unhooked' the harness from the speedo end and the cluster nearly fell out.
Dallas
Click to expand...

Good call! That'll be the first thing I try. I'll post back with the results.

RedFish said:
By the way, If this is a cloumn shift car, move the shifter to neutral or lower. A lot of downward force on the column while the shifter is in park can alter the neutral safety switch/linkage adjustment. The only way to correct that would be crawl under the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing that out! I wouldn't have though about that... Hopefully I haven't tweaked anything already...

67Dart273 said:
I thought you said you dropped the column......

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Click to expand...

Yeeeeaaaahh... Mostly... :D
I removed the bolts closest to the dash, which let me pull it down a couple of inches, seemingly enough to pull the gauges out... We'll see though. If the speedo connector on the back of the gauges isn't hanging up on the wiring harness I guess I'll have to stop trying to get it out the "half-assed" way... :thumblef:

Thanks to all again
 
Success!!!

The cluster is out!

web.jpg


Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics, but you all get the idea...

web.jpg


So if I could offer any advice to anyone planning to, or in the process of, removing their dash, DON'T DO IT THE "HALF-ASSED" WAY! (like I tried to :D)

After all the wonderfully helpful posts I received here, it turned out to be a combination of issues keeping me from getting the cluster out. First off, the wiring harness behind the dash was catching on the speedo attachment on the cluster, which made it difficult in the first place. Then, in my wisdom, I figured I'd have plenty of space if I just detached the three bolts on the column nearest the dash itself. WRONG! After much pushing and pulling and tweaking, I just detached the 3 bolts on the steering column plate attached to the firewall, as well as the two other bolts that attached another plate to that, and voila! The column dropped down nicely, and the gauge cluster slid out nice and easy.

Now it time to get to work cleaning and repairing the cluster, as well as the other trim plates from the dash.

Thank you all so much again, 67Dart273, RedFish, and MOBodyman, you were all especially invaluable!
:notworth: :notworth: :notworth: :notworth: :notworth:
 
Now that you have it out, here are some of the issues:

The pins for the two harness connectors get loose/ lose connection to the traces. If you can solder, clean them and re-solder them to the board. If not, find an electronics genie who can.

Check the board where the lamp socket spring contacts meet the board. Sometimes the copper gets eroded here

Remove the boards, clean 'em, and either use new screws or "work" the screws that hold it to the cluster to make sure they make (ground) contact. Far better is to solder jumper wires to the ground traces, and with an eyelet on the loose end, ground that to the cluster along with a second pigtail which you will make from there to the column support behind the cluster

Make sure the nuts holding the gauges are clean and tight, loosen/ tighten them at the very least to make good contact

On mine, the brass springs which "make" connection to the instrument voltage regulator WERE NOT making contact with the board. Solder these to the board traces

The condenser mounted down by the speedo connection is for radio noise suppression

(Looks like you have a nut missing from one gauge already)

You don't need to use those stupid factory nuts, you can use regular machine nuts (not sure, 10-32?) and internal star washers under 'em.
 
yup there is a contact nut missing from the temp gauge.
 
67Dart273 said:
(Looks like you have a nut missing from one gauge already)
Click to expand...

RedFish said:
yup there is a contact nut missing from the temp gauge.
Click to expand...

Nice spotting, gentleman! I though something was awry there... Now, is that nut just for grounding the temp gauge to the circuit board, or should there have been a wire connected to it from the harness? I looked around in the dash after I pulled it and didn't immediately see any "extra" wire hanging around...
As you can probably guess, the main reason I took the whole thing out was to fix the temp/fuel gauges (no reading on either, new Voltage Regulator going in shortly, both senders fine :wink:). Since I do have soldering skills, I'm planning on patching everything I can find on the circuit boards, and a nice deep cleaning as well. Plus sanding and repainting the bezel and faces, but that's another thread :D
Of course, the speedo doesn't read properly either, but now that everything's disconnected, I'll be able to do the standard tests as to weather it's the cable or the gauge.

:prayer: to you both
 
No the gauges are SERIES devices. Your current path is from the battery --harness--through the ignition switch "in run" to the instrument voltage limiter --tee off to both gauges---through each gauge -- the sender wire --the sender and to ground.
 
Ah! I see! This is starting to make more and more sense to me now!
I should have followed the traces on the circuit board earlier to see where everything is going, now that I have, it's allll coming together

Thanks for the schoolin'!
 
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