Instrument lights workaround?

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JeffreyLee

1965 Barracuda
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65 Barracuda. Have the windshield out, so I have access to the back of the headlight switch and the fuse box. Currently I have constant battery power and switched power when I pull on the headlights. The problem is that the tan wire feeding the instrument cluster fuse doesn't show power at all. My assumption is that power runs through the dimmer potentiometer. The only thing that does for me is to dim the instrument lights right? Could I just tap into my switched headlight wire and provide power to the instrument lights, just without the dimming capability? I'm pretty sure the dimmer circuit inside the switch is my problem, maybe a bad contact internally or something. I would prefer things worked correctly of course. What is the availability of a new headlight switch? Part #?
 
post some photos. I just went through my 67 Dart headlight switch and found the follower for the potentiometer was not making good contact, I was able to adjust it and clean up the surfaces a bit as well.

In regards to dash light by pass you could do that. you could even buy a rehostat and wire in series ( make sure it is sized correctly)

but modern replacements are available and cheap ( may be cheap quality but for hte price!!) I just googled 65 barracuda headlight switch and came up with many options even NOS and good used.
 
65 Barracuda. Have the windshield out, so I have access to the back of the headlight switch and the fuse box. Currently I have constant battery power and switched power when I pull on the headlights. The problem is that the tan wire feeding the instrument cluster fuse doesn't show power at all. My assumption is that power runs through the dimmer potentiometer. The only thing that does for me is to dim the instrument lights right? Could I just tap into my switched headlight wire and provide power to the instrument lights, just without the dimming capability? I'm pretty sure the dimmer circuit inside the switch is my problem, maybe a bad contact internally or something. I would prefer things worked correctly of course. What is the availability of a new headlight switch? Part #?

Absolutely that would work fine.
If your car park lights are on with the headlights on you could tie in there if you want.
Maybe do it as less intrusive as possible till you get your new switch.
 
Make sure the tail/ parking light terminal has power. The light switch has TWO power feeds, and the headlights 'only' power does NOT power the dimmer. Most of those dimmers, you can inspect and test visually and externally. Most of them are open and accessable. You should be able to probe and see if you have power feeding the dimmer, as well as inspect the wiper for dirt/ damage/ corrosion.
 
Why not simply replace the headlight switch? Am I missin somethin?
 
Just wanted to close this thread....I removed the original headlight switch, found a replacement in stock at Napa auto parts, installed it and we are good to go! Thanks for your help.
 
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